Tom Ford's Sensational Comeback at Milan Fashion Week: A Mesmerizing Display of Slinky Elegance
Tom Ford's highly anticipated return to the Milan catwalk exceeded all expectations, as British designer Peter Hawkings unveiled his debut collection as the creative director A sleek and captivating dawn broke upon Milan, leaving fashion enthusiasts in awe
On Thursday evening, a new era began in Milan as British designer Peter Hawkings took on the role of creative director at Tom Ford, marking his highly anticipated debut in womenswear. With a significant 25-year career as a menswear director, including serving as Tom Ford's trusted assistant at Gucci and his eponymous label, this venture into womenswear signifies a pivotal moment for Hawkings.
It was the maiden catwalk presentation after Ford's namesake brand was acquired by Estee Lauder for a staggering $2.8 billion last year. Ford relinquished his role as designer and personally endorsed Hawkings as his replacement.
Sharp suiting and plenty of sultry glamor remains the order of the day in the Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
Claudia Greco/Reuters
Fans of Fords bold and alluring aesthetics need not worry about the brand losing its seductive silhouettes and impeccably tailored designs. Despite the passing of the baton, the Spring-Summer 2024 runways at New York Fashion Week showcased the same signature style, albeit with a renewed focus on sensuality over provocation. Here are the highlights.
Slinky backless dresses, leather mini dresses, and jumpsuits with daring cutouts were showcased at the forefront, exuding a sleek and alluring vibe. Injecting a touch of spontaneity and playfulness, the collection featured gold tasseled shorts and feathered skirts. The runway also unveiled a stunning lineup of lustrous velvet suits, available in a range of enchanting shades including deep dusty pinks, forest green, deep purple, and teal. This iconic Tom Ford staple, famously donned by Gwyneth Paltrow during the 1996 MTV Video Music Awards, was effortlessly styled with unbuttoned silk-satin shirts, adorned with strings of gold hardware, and complemented by yellow-tinted sunglasses—a beloved choice of both Ford and Hawkings.
Hawkings said the show was a moment he felt like he'd been preparing for "my entire life."
Claudia Greco/Reuters
After the show, Hawkings referred to it as "an act of continuity," describing it as a fresh beginning in a familiar environment.
The designer, who had studied under the renowned Professor Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins and met Tom Ford in 1998, shared that he had been influenced greatly by Ford's design principles throughout their 25-year collaboration. "His guidance and inspiration have enabled me to develop my own unique style and expand upon it for future endeavors."
Admitting that "it was quite intimidating in the initial stages," Hawkings expressed that assuming control at the label felt like a genuine progression. "Tom passing on the torch clearly held immense significance for me."
Ford's high-octane sex appeal was still present in this collection, designed by Hawkings.
Claudia Greco/Reuters
Hawkings, residing in London with his wife Whitney Bromberg, who is the founder and CEO of flower delivery company Flowerbx, will now oversee the design of both menswear and womenswear. By amalgamating the two collections, he aims to achieve a level of consistency that was lacking in the past due to logistical challenges with his predecessor. Let's take a look at the trends from the Spring-Summer 2024 shows at London Fashion Week.
There was a previously existing disconnect between the Tom Ford woman and the man. This was mainly due to Tom Ford being in LA while the design team was located elsewhere. However, now everything is consolidated under one roof, which I believe is crucial. As someone who is obsessed with details, this is important to me.
Drawing inspiration from Donyale Luna, an influential Black supermodel from Detroit who became a muse to Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon in the 1960s, Hawkings acknowledged his wife Bromberg as his source of confidence in his new role. Having a strong-willed wife with a strong opinion is immensely helpful to him. She can provide honest feedback on whether she loves or hates something, how it fits, and how comfortable it is.
The collection showed the brand has found a fresh sensuality.
"It makes complete sense," he exclaimed, referring to the decision to commence the Hawkings era in Milan. "This is where my career took off, collaborating with Tom at Gucci. Furthermore, the unparalleled quality and commitment to excellence in Italy are of utmost significance to me, as I am a perfectionist."
Hawkings is not the sole debutant at Milan Fashion Week. Gucci's newly appointed creative director, Sabato De Sarno, is set to reveal the brand's inaugural collection on Friday. Drawing inspiration from Tom Ford's iconic Gucci era, Hawkings' inclusion in the Milan schedule serves as both a timely reminder and affirmation of the aesthetic that Tom Ford may have pioneered, but that his successor is eager to embrace and develop further.
After receiving an enthusiastic response from the audience, Hawkings took a moment to reflect on the experience backstage. "I must admit, it was an incredibly enjoyable and exhilarating experience," he shared. "It's a tremendous opportunity that I feel like I've been preparing for my entire life."
