The Ultimate Glamour Guide: Milan Fashion Week Unveils the Hottest Trends of Spring-Summer 2024

Milan Fashion Week started off where London left off the previous week, with similar weather conditions. Just like in the final days of London's fashion extravaganza, Milan also experienced heavy rain followed by brief periods of sunshine throughout the five-day event. This led to delays in many of the presentations and, in some instances, like the Gucci show, organizers had to change the venues.

However, the rain did not dampen the overall atmosphere of the week, which was filled with anticipation for various debuts. This included Sabato de Sarno, who made his debut as the new creative director of Gucci, as well as Tom Ford's first Milan show with Peter Hawkings, a British designer and Ford's long-time protege. Both of them received high praise for their collections, as did other well-established names in the world of Italian fashion. From Prada and Ferragamo to Fendi and Bottega Veneta, Milan once again showcased its commitment to impeccable elegance and a fresh, feminine aesthetic. This season, that aesthetic took the form of knits, short shorts, red leather, and perfectly tailored jackets.

Versace presented a 1960s-infused aesthetic with sorbet colors.

Diesel, known for its rebellious and audacious approach, stood out from other brands at the fashion week. Their collection showcased oversized distressed clothing created from torn deadstock jeans, recycled denim, and vintage posters. The crumpled graphics added a post-modern punk feel to the show, creating an energetic and wild atmosphere that was unmatched throughout the entire season.

In terms of the festivities, the Italian city of Paris continues to be the biggest rival to the fashion scene throne, displaying a consistent form. As usual, celebrities and renowned individuals flocked to the event, occupying front rows with great frequency (given the ongoing strikes in Hollywood, it might as well be their main occupation). Out of all the attendees, Gucci boasted the most star-studded presence, with VIP guests including Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Gabrielle Union, Jessica Chastain, Paul Mescal, and Jodie Comer. Prada received support from Emma Watson, Scarlett Johansson, and Benedict Cumberbatch, while Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell shared a seating arrangement at Fendi. The list of attendees could continue indefinitely.

Read on for our main Milanese takeaways.

Everything old is new again

Several Milanese brands looked to the past and revisited their archives for inspiration in their Spring-Summer 2024 collections, despite Anna Wintour's assertion in the documentary "The September Issue" that fashion is about looking forward rather than looking back.

Exploring the Trends of London Fashion Week for the Spring-Summer 2024 shows.

Kim Jones debuted at Fendi with a collection that combined the sleek and well-tailored aesthetic of their Spring-Summer 1999 line (designed by Karl Lagerfeld) with the timeless elegance of classical Roman statues. Meanwhile, Prada drew inspiration from multiple eras, starting with the 1920s flapper girl and incorporating nods to the 40s, 80s, 60s, and 90s. The show featured dropped-waist dresses with cascading fringes, oversized barn coats, suits in gray and navy, romper shorts, and a mesmerizing sleeveless shift dress crafted from organza and gazar silk.

Ethereal gauzy silk dresses were a standout moment at the Prada show.

At Tom Ford, the new designer Peter Hawkings paid homage to some of the greatest hits of its predecessors from the Gucci Spring-Summer 1996 show. This included skinny velvet suits, unbuttoned silk blouses, and tiny shorts paired with towering stilettos, albeit in a slightly more modest manner.

Versace delved into their esteemed Spring-Summer 1995 Atelier Versace collection, reimagining their renowned hourglass jackets, checkered patterns, and sleek minidresses crafted from georgette and jersey. To infuse a hint of 1960s charm, they incorporated sorbet colors and silhouettes reminiscent of the iconic fashion choices of Brigitte Bardot and Priscilla Presley.

Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2024 runways of New York Fashion Week.

Tods and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini showcased more 90s nostalgia in their collections. Meanwhile, Max Mara's designer Ian Griffiths drew inspiration from Britain's Land Army, a female workforce established in 1939 during the war, and presented a range of utilitarian pieces including apron-style dresses, boiler suits, jodhpur pants, and parachute-strapped corsets.

However, the brand that truly captured the essence of the past and projected it into the next season was Moschino. Despite being in a transitional phase between designers, the fashion house celebrated its 40th anniversary by tasking stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Lucia Liu, and Gabriella Karefa-Johnson with reimagining Franco Moschino's designs from 1983 to 1993. Each stylist created 10 unique looks that paid homage to the brand's rich history.

Without creative director Jeremy Scott, the latest Moschino collection was built by a series of stylists.

Moschino's latest collection showcased a delightful fusion of various styles. Cerf de Dudzeele presented understated silhouettes that paid homage to Moschino's iconic classics. Karefa-Johnson wowed with bold statement jewelry and crochet dresses. Lucia Liu enchanted the audience with her whimsically romantic and voluminous gowns. Lastly, Brand's "Loud Luxury" presentation featured elite dancers donning black and white bodysuits adorned with painted body parts.

Comebacks and newcomers

Gucci and Tom Ford might have been the most-anticipated premieres of the season, but they were far from the only surprises.

Donatella Versace made a triumphant return to Milan, showcasing her brand's influence in both fashion and pop culture. The star-studded presentation featured top models Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Natalia Bryant, and Precious Lee, with Claudia Schiffer making a remarkable comeback on the runway after five years. Meanwhile, at Dolce & Gabbana, supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a sheer three-quarter slip over lingerie, captivating the audience and earning a nearly standing ovation.

Supermodel of the 1990s, Claudia Schiffer, returned to the runway for a nostalgic moment during the Versace show.

Courtesy of Versace, there were notable debuts at Bally and Fiorucci. At Bally, the new designer Simone Bellotti showcased a highly wearable yet daring and intricate feminine collection. Meanwhile, Fiorucci's new creative director Francesca Murri unveiled a collection of fluid and innovative designs, signaling an exciting new phase for the renowned brand.

The Attico, a brand that has developed a dedicated following since its establishment in 2016, received great praise for their inaugural runway show held in Milan.

An especially notable return was seen from Matthieu Blazy of Bottega Veneta. While this was his fourth showing for the fashion house, the Spring-Summer 2024 collection marked a unique milestone as it followed Blazy's "Italian trilogy," a tribute to Italy, which he showcased in previous seasons.

Pharrell Williams' debut for Louis Vuitton was a star-studded event that sparked immense joy. The French-Belgian designer took guests on a captivating "odyssey," drawing inspiration from various cultures and destinations around the world. This was creatively portrayed through a visually striking tiled floor map adorned with illustrations of flying fish, crabs, and penguins. The models themselves embodied the spirit of travelers, each with their own unique stories and destinations. From the holiday-goer in a cozy knit bathing suit to the office worker in a sleek coat and leather tie, and even the dreamer dressed in woven dresses adorned with oversized raffia pom poms and fringed skirts, every look demonstrated the remarkable range and craftsmanship of Blazy's visionary world.

Cinematic sets and performative shows

Alongside the clothes, many brands made their sets a main talking point at fashion week.

Diesel, a seasoned expert in creating visually stunning sets for its shows (remember last season's enormous pile of condoms?), extended an invitation to 7000 attendees, the majority of whom were members of the public, for what can only be described as an extraordinary outdoor party at a converted railway yard. Despite the rain pouring down, Diesel projected its runway on a colossal screen, providing a mesmerizing experience for all.

Fendi's catwalk featured large-scale sculptures of their bags as part of the set design.

Paolo Fichera/Courtesy Fendi

Just hours prior, Cavalli mesmerized the audience with a jungle-themed showcase. Guests were greeted by magnificent towering tropical plants and vibrant flowers that perfectly complemented the collection's animal patterns and 70s hippie-rock vibes.

Fendi took a bold approach with their accessories, adorning their Milan showroom with colossal 20-feet sculptures resembling iconic bags like the Baguette and the Peekaboo, beautifully crafted with a marble-like effect. Meanwhile, Prada decided on an ethereal touch, creating delicate streams of thick, sticky slime that gracefully cascaded from the ceiling of their Fondazione Prada venue, forming liquid walls around the models.

Large-scale silver spheres created by artist Shawn Kolodny at Missoni distorted proportions and accentuated the vibrant colors of the clothing. Milan served as the backdrop for several shows, including The Attico, which took over a residential street in western Milan and provided attendees, including Sabato de Sarno, with comfortable leather sofas. Initially planning to showcase their collection outside the Accademia di Brera, a prestigious art academy in Milan, Gucci had to relocate to their headquarters due to inclement weather.

At the Sunnei show, audience members were given numbered paddles to rate the looks in real time.

At Sunnei, a renowned brand recognized for its innovative and engaging showcases, the audience experienced the essence of pure performance. Attendees were provided with 10 paddles, each numbered from one to 10, enabling them to evaluate each appearance. This unconventional approach served as a meta-commentary on the transient nature of fashion in the era of social media, where everyone assumes the role of a critic.

On Sunday, Stockholm-born designer Beate Karlsson of Avavav opted for a dynamic and entertaining show. Models sprinted back and forth, their faces streaked with faux mascara tears. Some were halfway dressed, others flaunted a single shoe or wore backless shirts with the phrase "Add back!?" prominently displayed. The purpose was to humorously depict the frantic design processes at the heart of today's fast-paced fashion industry and the relentless time constraints faced by creatives. The entire spectacle exuded a manic, tongue-in-cheek, and satirical vibe, providing a fitting conclusion to an eventful week.

Sabato de Sarno's debut as Gucci's creative director was one of the key moments of the week.

Gregoire Avanel/Courtesy Gucci

The collection, which was partly inspired by Tom Ford's stint at the brand, was filled with cheeky, short hem-lines and slinky party dresses.

Gaspar Ruiz/Courtesy Gucci

It was considered one of the label's more commercially focussed collections in recent years.

Gaspar Ruiz/Courtesy Gucci

At Missoni, giant silver balls reflected the outfits on the runway as part of an immersive set design.

Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images

Bottega Veneta continued their expert manipulation of leather.

Courtesy Bottega Veneta

It was Mattieu Blazy's fourth collection for the brand, and this time his inspiration came from all over the world.

Courtesy Bottega Veneta

Multiple stylists helped create Moschino's latest collection.

Alfonso Catalano/Courtesy Moschino

This season at Fendi, Kim Jones nodded to 1999 collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Courtesy Fendi

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Jones also said he was inspired by the classic statues of Rome.

Courtesy Fendi

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Italian brand The Attico staged its debut runway show.

Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images

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AVAVAV, a rapidly growing brand, recently curated a mesmerizing runway show where models made a dramatic entrance, stumbling from backstage, gracefully recovering, and styling themselves as they confidently strutted down the catwalk.

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Naomi Campbell closed the Dolce & Gabbana show.

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Boss presented workwear chic staged inside what looked like an office block from the 1990s.

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Ryan Gosling and Juila Roberts were among the star-studded crowd to pile into the Gucci show.

Courtesy Gucci

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Irish actor Paul Mescal was also spotted at the Gucci show.

Courtesy Gucci

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Birds of a feather did indeed flock together at Roberto Cavalli, whose collection featured a range of feather prints as well as feather-trimmed pieces.

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At Ferragamo, elegance took on a unique twist. Timeless garments were infused with unexpected elements, such as layered sculpted leather tunics atop skirts and tailored sleeves cleverly slashed to reveal the arms.