The Great Outdoors
The Fall-Winter 2024 menswear shows in Milan showcased a strong emphasis on dressing for the elements, with designers drawing inspiration from nature and the great outdoors. At Prada, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented the 'Human Nature' collection, which centered on the human need to connect with the world around us. This theme was reflected in the juxtaposition of office-appropriate attire with all-weather trenches, padded workwear coats, and double-breasted sheepskin coats, creating a dynamic blend of functionality and style.
Prada-approved officewear was on display at the fashion house's recent show in Milan.
Emporio Armani also embraced a maritime mood, featuring sailor collars and nautical-motif knitwear set against the backdrop of a rotating beam of a lighthouse. The outdoor-inspired theme continued with British designer Steven Stokey Daley's bright yellow fisherman jacket, as well as Fendi's countryside-inspired collection, inspired by Britain's Princess Anne. The incorporation of seafaring and outdoor elements brought a sense of adventure and practicality to the runway, redefining menswear for the everyday explorer.
Britain's Princess Anne was a slightly unlikely inspiration for Fendi's menswear collection for Fall-Winter 2024.
The fusion of office wear with outdoor influences was a recurring theme, reflecting the duality of modern lifestyles and the instinctive connection between people and their surroundings. The menswear collections celebrated the versatility of nature-inspired fashion, offering a fresh perspective on everyday dressing that seamlessly transitions from urban environments to the great outdoors.
Functional, useful and classic, as above at Emporio Armani, were the key themes of the season in Milan.
Sleek Suiting
In addition to outdoor-inspired ensembles, the Milan menswear shows highlighted a renewed focus on sleek suiting, with designers reimagining classic tailoring for the modern man. White-tie attire emerged as a frontrunner, gracing the runways of JW Anderson and S.S. Daley, while Dolce & Gabbana emphasized wearable, classic tailoring and long coats, signaling a shift towards understated elegance.
Elevated clothing for the everyday was in evidence on many runways, including JW Anderson, above.
Gucci's menswear debut under creative director Sabato de Sarno showcased floor-sweeping designs in forest-green and the newly-minted shade, 'Ancora red', evoking a sense of sophistication and cinematic allure. The emphasis on suiting with renewed relevance underscored a return to timeless menswear essentials, offering a balance of formality and contemporary style for the modern gentleman.
Dolce & Gabbana focussed on wearable, classic tailoring and long coats.
A Lesson in Moderation
While the menswear collections exuded sophistication and functionality, subtlety and moderation were key themes woven into the fabric of the designs. The revival of the brooch as a sartorial accessory made a notable appearance across multiple brands, adding a touch of refined elegance to tailored ensembles. Brooches adorned lapels at S.S. Daley, Magliano, Emporio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana, showcasing a nod to timeless sartorial traditions with a contemporary twist.
A long coat in "ancor red," designer Sabato de Sarno's new shade, on display at Gucci.
From restrained glitz at Gucci to animal motifs at Magliano and JW Anderson, the understated embellishments and motifs added a touch of whimsy and individuality to the menswear collections. The emphasis on longevity and functionality further underscored the shift towards a more sustainable approach to fashion, aligning with the current calls for a broader appeal and aesthetic caution in the luxury menswear market.