Hottest Fashion Trends and Must-See Collections from London Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024

London Fashion Week started on Friday amidst a heatwave in the UK, and ended on Tuesday with heavy rain and thunderstorms. The fashion industry was buzzing with excitement for shows from Burberry, JW Anderson, Erdem, and Simone Rocha, while also feeling the absence of popular brands like Dilara Findikoglu, Halpern, Nensi Dojaka, and S.S. Daley, who canceled their shows just weeks before the event.

The season began with a potential new tradition: a British version of the Met Gala organized by Anna Wintour, benefiting London's performing arts centers. Vogue World's glamorous maroon carpet brought in celebrities like Sienna Miller (who showcased her baby bump in Schiaparelli couture), Jodie Turner-Smith, Princess Eugenie, and Kate Winslet, adding star power to the schedule.

New York Fashion Week: Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2024 runways

A multitude of well-known individuals graced the London fashion scene throughout the week. Celebrities such as Cole Sprouse, Suki Waterhouse, Charli XCX, Ncuti Gatwa, and Alexa Chung were sighted at the Roundhouse in North London, attending JW Anderson's captivating catwalk on Saturday. Meanwhile, Olympic gold medalist Mo Farah, "Gorillaz" frontman Damon Albarn, Rachel Weiss, Jodie Comer, and Kylie Minogue formed a stylish entourage that took control of Highbury Fields in east London for the Burberry show.

UK rapper Burna Boy, Kylie Minogue and "The Banshees of Inisherin" actor Barry Keoghan spotted front row at the Burberry show.

Dave Benett/Courtesy Burberry

Despite this, London Fashion Week expanded its reach beyond the confines of the fashion industry and became a topic of conversation in broader cultural circles due to its controversial collections and marketing choices. Just recently, Burberry, under the creative direction of Daniel Lee, presented their second collection, which led to the temporary renaming of the Bond Street Underground Station to "Burberry Street." This move reportedly caused chaos and confusion among tourists in the city over the weekend. Another noteworthy incident occurred on Friday night when emerging Nigerian designer Mowalola sparked a heated discussion regarding the appropriate use of religious iconography. This was triggered by her decision to feature the Saudi Arabian flag on a mini skirt during her Spring-Summer 2024 runway show.

Scroll down to read all the trends that emerged from the London shows.

Sartorial sculpture

Some brands took the concept of wearable art to new heights, showcasing avant-garde runway looks that appeared more like sculptures than clothes. HARRI, the emerging designer behind musician Sam Smith's attention-grabbing inflatable jumpsuit at the Brit Awards in February, presented an expanded collection featuring balloon trousers, dresses, and jackets. JW Anderson kicked off their show on Saturday with a clay hoodie and shorts ensemble, while KWK by Kwok redefined the notion of a hoop skirt by layering oversized discs to create a breathtaking futuristic flower-like effect.

HARRI debuted inflatable skirts and jackets to go with his signature balloon trousers.

Joe Maher/BFC/Getty Images

A number of looks at JW Anderson were made from molded plasticine.

firstVIEW/Shutterstock

Fancy footwear

This season, the focus on footwear extended beyond what was happening above the ankle. During her runway show, Simone Rocha surprised everyone with a collaboration with Crocs, transforming the controversial rubber shoe into a platform heel embellished with her iconic pearls and crystal Jibbitz. But the Croc fever didn't end there: Sinéad ODwyer, an up-and-coming lingerie designer, introduced a sandal version of the gardening footwear in her Spring-Summer 2024 collection. HARRI pushed the boundaries by showcasing Vibram's notorious FiveFinger hiking shoes on the runway, while Molly Goddard channeled the spirit of professional wrestling gear with her knee-high lace-up boots, adorning her models as they confidently strutted down the catwalk.

Simone Rocha collaborated with the polarizing footwear brand Crocs.

Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Knee-high lace up boots in clashing pink and red were a pivotal finishing detail at Molly Goddard.

Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images

David vs. David

London experienced a cinematic takeover this week, as several designers found inspiration in avant-garde film directors David Cronenberg and David Lynch. 16Arlington presented a remarkably cohesive collection, drawing influence from Lynch's 1997 noir thriller "Lost Highway." The dimly lit runway, resembling an open road, weaved through the guests as models showcased character-driven ensembles. These looks portrayed urban dwellers in pencil skirts and Wall Street shirts, holding plush leather briefcases. The collection even borrowed its name from a line in Lynch's film.

In a similar vein, Mowalola's contentious runway show referenced Cronenberg's equally intense 1996 film "Crash." Models had faux bloody noses, black eyes, and prosthetic stitching applied by makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench, creating a visual representation of the movie's gore.

"There is no such thing as a bad coincidence," read 16Arlington's collection titlea line of dialogue from Lynch's film.

Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images

Party dresses of yore

The runway transported us through time multiple times in September. Richard Quinn's creation of an ivory ruffled mini dress resembled a Rococo ball gown coat from the 1700s. Meanwhile, during the finale of Molly Goddard's ultra-feminine British label, the models seemed to walk through various decades of the 20th century. The collection featured drop-waist tea dresses reminiscent of the 1920s, as well as tulle frocks with 1950s bustier tops. Goddard drew inspiration from National Theatre costume hire, specifically underskirts, underwear crinolines, 1950s bras, Victorian christening gowns, and Georgian underskirts.

At Matty Bovan's backstage dinner, where only a few guests were invited to see the collection up-close, an acid fantasy of 1980s Americana unfolded. The looks included enveloping ruffles, backcombed hair, and glitter leggings. Each look seemed as if it were 10 lamé party dresses that had been shredded by a woodchipper. Bovan described them as "chopped up and reborn" in his collection notes, creating a cacophony of monstrous beauty that engulfed the wearers.

Richard Quinn leaned into historical costume dressing for Spring-Summer 2024.

Pixelformula/SIPA/Shutterstock

Matty Bovan gave 1980s party dresses a new spin.

Shutterstock

A surplus of sheer fabrics

Simone Rocha showcased a captivating dark romance at the English National Ballets HQ in east London. Models elegantly paraded around a black rehearsal stage adorned with a pop-up faux church. They wore enchanting layers of breezy tulle, exquisitely filled with real, long-stemmed pink roses. Susan Fang stole the show with more whimsical lace and see-through tulle. Her "Air. Life." show introduced the innovative technique of "air-weave smocking," where layers of fabric are artfully combined, one by one. Erdem gave the English country garden a touch of sheer charm, while David Koma presented neon variations. David Lees Burberry collection boldly made a sartorial statement with bright tufted florals on a sheer black dress.

David Koma was just one of many designers to feature barely-there sheer tulle and mesh in his collection.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images

At Simone Rocha, rose bouquets peeked out from beneath the tulle fabric.

firstVIEW/Shutterstock

Big on beading

From embellishment on slip dresses at Erdem to full-blown headpieces at Simone Rocha and Di Petsa, beading enjoyed another moment in the sun for Spring-Summer 2024.

The craft took center stage at Susan Fang, with an impressive display of handbags, hair accessories, sunglasses, and

. The standout piece was a remarkable architectural creation, meticulously crafted from "600 handcrafted bead trees... crafted primarily by mothers from Chinese minority groups," as stated in Fang's post-show notes. This magnificent piece aimed to symbolize DNA and "harness the power of love and spirit."

Susan Fang featured beaded dresses, bags, necklaces and bead-trimmed sunglasses.

Joe Maher/BFC/Getty Images

Simone Rocha also included beaded headpieces that extended over the models faces.

Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

One of the crowning looks of Susan Fang's latest collection was a dress made from 600 handcrafted bead trees.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_13}}

Chet Lo's collection explored sexual repression and featured a recurring motif of two men kissing printed on skirts, jackets and dresses.

Wiktor Szymanowicz/Future Publishing/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_14}}

Chet Lo also referenced the Japanese bondage subculture of Shibari.

Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_15}}

The ROKSANDA show took place at London's Barbican Center, and featured a live performance by an opera singer.

Shane Anthony Sinclair/BFC/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_16}}

TOVE's second runway show in London presented a range of sophisticated and wearable satin pieces.

Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_17}}

TOVE has become famous for its ruched detailing and understated elegance.

Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_18}}

Regal evening gowns were everywhere at Richard Quinn.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_19}}

Molly Goddard fused vintage undergarment engineering with her classic tulle party frock style.

Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_20}}

HARRI's debut runway featured an interpretative dance routine to show inflatable pieces in movement.

Joe Maher/BFC/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_21}}

Bomber jackets bursting with feathers were another standout feature at the JW Anderson show.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_22}}

Loud prints, vibrant colors and a penchant for vintage streetwear defined Ahluwahlia's latest collection.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_23}}

At Daniel Lee's second show for Burberry, a series of new, punkier motifs were unveiled as recurring prints.

Pixelformula/SIPA/Shutterstock

{{img_placeholder_24}}

There was an air of rural Englishness at Erdem, particularly in the pieces that fused floral quilted blankets with country wax jackets.

Shutterstock

{{img_placeholder_25}}

Burberry also presented a mesh dress with tufted floral detailing that recalled cosy rugs one might find in a artful English cottage.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_26}}

Erdem's collection was partly inspired by the protected stately home, Chatsworth House, in the North of England.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_27}}

Ashish returned to the London Fashion Week runway after 4 years with a show that was suitably high-octane and glamorous.

Shutterstock

{{img_placeholder_28}}

Each entirely sequinned piece was complimented by a diverse range of models who injected the fantasy with their own personality.

Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_29}}

Alexa Chung and Poppy Delevingne spotted the JW Anderson, one of the week's more star-studded runways.

Noor-u-Nisa Khan/WWD/Getty Images

{{img_placeholder_30}}

Distressed leather and dyed shearling were key features of the KNWLS show on Sunday.

firstVIEW/Shutterstock

{{img_placeholder_31}}

KNWLSwho was nominated for best emerging talent at the British Fashion Awards this yearpresented a collection that revelled in motorcycle chic.

firstVIEW/Shutterstock

{{img_placeholder_32}}

The new industrial prints at Burberry tried to establish a new kind of Britishness.

Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images