Unveiling Karl Lagerfeld: The Untold Story of a Fashion Icon
Delve into Lagerfeld's intriguing journey during the 1970s in this captivating series that sheds light on his controversial yet remarkable career before his iconic collaboration with Chanel.
Designer Karl Lagerfeld, portrayed by Daniel Brühl, expresses his fondness for anonymity in the first episode of the new series "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld," based on Raphaëlle Bacqué’s novel "Kaiser Karl." Accompanied by Jacques de Bascher, played by Théodore Pellerin, a budding writer and Lagerfeld's eventual love interest, they attend a fashion show hosted by Lagerfeld's friend and rival Yves Saint Laurent, portrayed by Arnaud Valois.
De Bascher responds with a touch of humor, saying, "You dress like the Sun King to go unnoticed." Lagerfeld chuckles at the remark.
King Louis XIV, also known as the Sun King, ruled France during the 17th and 18th centuries. He was known for his extravagant fashion choices, including exaggerated sleeves, flowing ruffles, and intricately patterned fabrics.
Karl Lagerfeld may not have worn a tumbling dark wig like the Sun King, but the comparison made by de Bacher is not without merit. Lagerfeld's wardrobe is a sight to behold, with flared trousers, elaborate tie pins, cravats matched to pocket squares, heeled boots, and a dazzling array of ties. His color palette ranges from rich jewel tones to earthy hues, such as petrol blues and pinstripes. Although he hasn't sported his signature starched collar and fingerless gloves yet, one thing is for sure - his outfits are always completed with a pair of dark aviator sunglasses, soon to become another trademark look.
The show follows Lagerfeld during his time at Chloé and ends just before the creative director begins working with Chanel in 1983.
The show follows Lagerfeld during his time at Chloé and ends just before the creative director begins working with Chanel in 1983.
Premiering on Hulu on June 7, "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld" takes viewers on a journey through the life and career of the iconic fashion designer from 1972 to the spring of 1981. The show stops just before Lagerfeld's collaboration with Chanel in 1983. Lagerfeld, who had joined Chloé in 1966, became the sole designer for the brand in 1974. The series delves into his ongoing power struggle with Chloé's founder Gaby Aghion (portrayed by Agnès Jaoui), who had initially recognized Lagerfeld's talent but clashed with him over showcasing his artistic, haute couture vision.
David Herranz/Courtesy Disney+
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The creators of the series made an interesting choice in portraying Lagerfeld in a sympathetic light. Critics pointed out Lagerfeld's controversial statements about various topics when the Metropolitan Museum of Art honored him in 2023. Despite his brooding and ambitious nature in "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld," viewers are still encouraged to root for him. In contrast, Saint Laurent's character suffers from bad publicity in the love triangle, appearing as a desperate and pitiful artist obsessed with de Bascher. Lagerfeld, however, portrays an aloof and scorned lover.
Is it a man's world?
One of the memorable lines from the show brings attention to Lagerfeld's sexist views. In the first episode, he tells de Bascher at the YSL show, "Fashion has nothing to do with women, or there wouldn’t be so many gays in the business." He goes on to explain that fashion is a way of representing the spirit of the time and reflecting society's true essence.
Karl Lagerfeld, seen here in 1954 — the year his fashion career formally began. Despite having no formal training, the young German won the coat category of the prestigious Woolmark Prize which led to a job with couturier Pierre Balmain, who was one of the judges.
Karl Lagerfeld started his fashion career in 1954, without any formal training. Despite this, he impressed the judges and won the coat category of the Woolmark Prize. This achievement caught the attention of couturier Pierre Balmain, who offered him a job.
Marlene Dietrich (played by Sunnyi Melles) then sharply disagrees with him, using his own metaphor to tell him that a fashion designer is simply a reflection of the woman he dresses. She bluntly states, "You only exist if the reflection in the mirror pleases me."
These statements, although not verbatim from Lagerfeld or Dietrich in real life, reveal the ego that Lagerfeld possessed. They also raise an intriguing inquiry into the dynamics of gender and power in the fashion world.
Designer John Galliano poses with his models at the Christian Dior Haute Couture show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images)
Fashion designer John Galliano is seen here with his models at the Christian Dior Haute Couture show during the Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2010. The photo was taken by Stephane Cardinale/Corbis via Getty Images.
Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images
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Despite Dietrich's objections, the makers of "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld" appear to favor their inspiration. In the series, most female characters are portrayed as providing emotional support or serving as beautiful backgrounds for Lagerfeld and Saint Laurent to showcase their art. According to "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld," the Parisian fashion scene in the 1970s was largely controlled by a small group of bickering men.
The history of high fashion is not as straightforward as it may seem. Haute couture, the realm where Lagerfeld aimed to leave his mark, wasn't established until 1858. This disrupted the prevailing practice of female dressmakers. According to Claire Wilcox, senior curator of fashion at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, the concept of haute couture and its clientele only came into being with Charles Frederick Worth. This marked a significant turning point in the history of fashion. Worth was the pioneer who founded the very first haute couture house, earning him the title of haute couture's "father".
"Becoming Karl Lagerfeld" aims to transport viewers to the vibrant cities of 1970s Paris, Monaco, and Rome, allowing them to witness the remarkable evolution of this iconic and multifaceted individual. The show notes describe it as a captivating portrayal of a complex and polarizing figure.
In a 2014 essay, historian Abigail Joseph noted that before Worth, women were mainly responsible for dressing other women. They were allowed to enter the fashion industry by Louis XIV in 1675. By the time Worth started his business, it was common for women to be designers. The idea of a male dressmaker like Worth was unusual, and he faced criticism for not fitting the traditional image of a dressmaker.
However, by 1889, things had changed. The name Worth became synonymous with high fashion and was seen as the center of the fashionable world. Newspapers like the "Leitrim Advertiser" praised his designs as groundbreaking and revolutionary. The 20th century saw many couture houses inspired by Worth's success. Although designers like Chanel and Schiaparelli gained fame, male designers like Dior, Balmain, and Givenchy also became prominent in the fashion industry.
After Dietrich’s diatribe, the attention shifts towards Lagerfeld and de Bascher’s tumultuous relationship, leaving little focus on either this context or women’s relation to fashion. "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld" is a visually stunning tribute to ‘70s style, providing a humanized look at key figures in the fashion industry. However, delving deeper into the gendered power dynamics of fashion could have added a layer of complexity to the narrative.
Editor's P/S:
The article provides an intriguing glimpse into the life and career of Karl Lagerfeld, showcasing his creative genius, enigmatic personality, and impact on the fashion industry. The portrayal of Lagerfeld's complex character, balancing his aloofness with his artistic brilliance, creates a compelling narrative. The show's decision to portray Lagerfeld in a sympathetic light, despite his controversial statements, raises questions about the complexities of his personality and the potential for redemption.
Furthermore, the article explores the gender dynamics within the fashion world, highlighting the historical dominance of male designers in haute couture. The reference to Charles Frederick Worth as the "father" of haute couture underscores the significance of his role in shaping the industry. However, the article could have delved deeper into the contributions of female dressmakers and designers, whose influence on fashion history deserves recognition. By examining the gendered power dynamics in more detail, the show could have provided a more comprehensive and nuanced portrayal of the fashion industry.
