The Impact of a Fashion House Outliving Its Creator
The debut piece from Chanel's Spring-Summer 2025 collection in Milan has sparked mixed reactions on social media.
Welcome to 'Look of the Week', where we dive into the most talked about outfit of the last seven days. This week, singer Sam Smith made a grand entrance on the catwalk. They wore a tartan shawl over a v-neck jumper, with a unique codpiece-turned-fanny-pack. A twist of tartan and black tulle on their head resembled knotted black hair. Completing the look were tartan platform boots and a wooden walking staff.
The discombobulating outfit that opened Vivienne Westwood’s Fall-Winter 2024 show in Paris was not a tribute to Mel Gibson’s “Braveheart”. Designed by Andreas Kronthaler, the collection has sparked mixed reactions online.
Andreas Kronthaler, the late Westwood’s co-collaborator and husband, presented a departure from the brand’s usual style in the latest season. While traditional Westwood elements like high platform shoes, 18th and 19th-century references, and cheeky nods to history were present, the overall execution felt jumbled and confused. Smith’s outfit seemed to embody this sentiment perfectly.
Some have claimed Kronthaler's Fall-Winter 2024 collection has "defiled" the Westwood name. In fact, he helped create it.
Some have claimed Kronthaler's Fall-Winter 2024 collection has "defiled" the Westwood name. In fact, he helped create it.
Vivienne Westwood, a pioneer in the fashion industry, passed away in December 2022. She was known for pushing boundaries in fashion, sometimes even challenging what was considered wearable. She used her platform to raise awareness about climate change and over-consumption. Her unique designs have influenced renowned fashion designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Interestingly, her label has experienced a resurgence in popularity among Gen Z. For instance, the Vivienne Westwood 1990 "orb choker" has become so trendy that there are now numerous fake versions available on platforms like Temu, AliExpress, and Etsy.
Many fans expressed strong emotions towards the brand, especially following Westwood's passing. The show on Saturday seemed to strike a chord with them. Some fans on X expressed their disappointment, with one saying, "Vivienne Westwood would be upset seeing Sam Smith in this outfit." Another fan commented, "I can't believe this is a Vivienne Westwood show." Online, many criticized Kronthaler's latest collection for tarnishing Westwood's fashion legacy.
The 1990s era of Vivienne Westwood was defined by shape and silhouette, as demonstrated here with Linda Evangelista walking the Fall-Winter 1995 show in Paris.
The 1990s era of Vivienne Westwood was defined by shape and silhouette, as demonstrated here with Linda Evangelista walking the Fall-Winter 1995 show in Paris.
PL Gould/Getty Images
Kronthaler has played a crucial role in shaping Westwood's legacy, being there from the iconic moment Kate Moss strutted down the runway in a captain's hat, enjoying a chocolate ice cream. His vision is deeply embedded in the DNA of Westwood.
The label truly shines when it strikes a balance between the bold and the beautiful. While known for her confrontational and subversive style, Westwood is also a skilled tailor who appreciates the importance of proportion, silhouette, and shape. For every edgy oversized t-shirt marked with Sharpie, there are 10 exquisite looks that showcase her true artistry.
Alek Wek models a bulbous, satin ball gown at Vivienne Westwood's Spring-Spring 1998 show.
Alek Wek models a bulbous, satin ball gown at Vivienne Westwood's Spring-Spring 1998 show.
Linda Evangelista wore a stunning crystal-encrusted corset dress for the Fall-Winter 1995 show. The chiseled bodice was beautifully complemented by a soft, ombré ostrich feather skirt. In contrast, the Spring-Summer 1998 collection featured regal satin ball gowns and sleek skirt suits, showcasing two different sides of the Westwood archetype on the same runway.
Kronthaler, too, has demonstrated his ability to blend contrasting styles seamlessly. In his debut solo collection for Fall-Winter 2020, the closing look featured Bella Hadid transformed into a Renaissance princess. She wore a translucent white lace dress with puff sleeves, a pink satin corset, and a brown leather belt complete with a matching sword and sheath.
Zoey Grossman/Reformation
This week's featured look showcases Monica Lewinsky reclaiming office power dressing in a new campaign. With over 50 years of existence, the brand "Vivienne Westwood" offers a wide range of styles and interpretations. For some, true Westwood fashion embodies draped dresses and exaggerated corsetry, while for others, it's all about ripped stockings, bare butts, and bikini bottoms.
Kronthaler's first solo show for Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week felt more aligned with the brand's popular 90s silhouettes.
Kronthaler's first solo show for Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week felt more aligned with the brand's popular 90s silhouettes.
When a fashion house outlives its founder, there is often heightened scrutiny fueled by nostalgia. However, Kronthaler seems unfazed by the attention. In a 2022 interview with the Financial Times, he acknowledged the renewed interest in the Westwood brand but expressed his desire to avoid being too involved. Kronthaler stated, "I of course noticed this wave - this phenomenon. But I'm ducking under it, trying not to get too engaged. I don't want to make a parody - reworking, redoing it."
“And it’s not my nature either, looking back,” he said.
Editor's P/S:
The article delves into the controversial Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2024 show and the reactions it has garnered. I find the discombobulating outfit worn by Sam Smith to be an intriguing departure from the brand's usual style. While some have criticized it as a defilement of Westwood's legacy, I appreciate the creative freedom and boldness it represents.
The article highlights the tension between nostalgia and innovation within the fashion house. Kronthaler, who played a significant role in shaping Westwood's legacy, is now tasked with navigating the brand's future without her presence. I am curious to see how he will balance the demands of traditionalists with his own artistic vision. The article suggests that the label truly shines when it strikes a balance between the bold and the beautiful, and I look forward to seeing how Kronthaler interprets this in future collections.
