Chanel's Latest Show Transforms Unlikely English City Into Spectacular Venue

"Happy Chanel day!" a voice echoes through the dimly lit car park of a hotel in the bustling city center of Manchester. It's a rainy Thursday night in December, and to the astonishment of fashion experts and the general public alike, the renowned French fashion house has chosen England's third most populous city as the location for its latest Métiers d'Art event—an annual catwalk showcasing the brand's community of skilled artisans.

Situated in the northwest of the country, Manchester was historically a dominant force in the textile industry of the UK, but its connection to the world of high fashion has been relatively limited.

Manchester has gained recognition for being the birthplace of renowned new romantic and Brit pop bands from the 1980s and 90s, including The Smiths, New Order, Joy Division, Oasis, and The Stone Roses. The city also has a thriving literary scene, with notable figures such as punk poet John Cooper Clarke, UK poet laureate Carol Ann Duffy, and author Anthony Burgess. Furthermore, Manchester is the birthplace of Emmeline Pankhurst, a key figure in the suffragette movement. Ultimately, Manchester is known for its defiant spirit and counter-culture history. So, how did it become the catwalk backdrop for one of the most traditional names in luxury fashion?

The event took place on the cobbled streets of Manchester's Northern Quarter, under a gigantic temporary canopy to protect guests from the inclement weather.

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Virginie Viard is ultimately responsible for Chanel's foray into the north of England, as detailed in a letter from editors Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall in the special edition of Chaos magazine, which was included as part of Chanel's show invitation. The north of England also holds a special connection to Coco Chanel through her relationship with the 2nd Duke of Westminster and his family's estate in Cheshire. In 1923, Chanel became involved with the Duke and spent time at the family estate, located 30 miles from Manchester. It remains uncertain whether she ever visited the city itself. Coco Chanel's fashion influence continues to endure, as a new exhibition delves into the reasons behind this.

If the link seems fragile, it was more than compensated for by the collection's whimsical celebration of British heritage. The outdoor presentation took place on the cobbled streets of the city's Northern Quarter and reimagined a variety of English references from 1960s Mary-Jane pumps - complete with bedazzled cross straps - to newsboy hats in peach tweed (recently announced as Pantone's color of 2024), purple, and chocolate brown. Houndstooth dress coats were belted at the waist with gold Chanel chain belts, and models were adorned with jewels: Layered bracelets, oversized teardrop earrings, and even a version of Princess Diana and Queen Camilla's beloved three-strand pearl choker. The show also began with a procession of vibrant tweed skirt suits inspired by the late Queen Elizabeth II's own colorful palette, with each matching set taking around 300 hours to create.

Houndstooth coats were cinched at the waist with gold Chanel belts.

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Vivid-colored tweed suits were also the order of the day.

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A celebration of craft

The annual Métiers d'Art show, which translates to "master of the arts," is an opportunity to highlight the couture houses that Chanel has collaborated with since 1985. While the brand avoids terms like "funding" and "sponsorship," artisans maintain that Chanel has been a crucial support for many specialized ateliers in Paris. "I started working in the fashion industry in 1990," stated Hubert Barrère, creative director of Maison Lesage, the house responsible for creating Chanel's tweed and embroidery, after the show. "And (at that time) I heard the same thing repeatedly. If Chanel didn't exist, we would be finished. Nowadays, not so much. But for a long time, that was the truth."

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Viard paid homage to the city's renowned musical legacy with this embellished vinyl bustier dress.

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The house also reiterated their allegiance to pearls in this collection.

The dedication put into creating a Métiers d'Art collection rivals that of Haute Couture. It takes craftspeople anywhere from 50 to 500 hours to make the garments, with a strict deadline of just 10 days. While the design process remains similar to regular runway seasons, with Viard overseeing the silhouette, color, and inspiration, at Métiers d'Art the focus shifts to the artisans, who play a central role in the brand's storytelling. Barrère expressed, "Usually we are behind the scenes, in the shadow of the fashion (industry). This is a moment for people to discover exactly what we do. And for that reason, it's a gift."

The Manchester spirit, missing the Mancunians

The festivities were not well-received by everyone. Despite the attendance of famous personalities like Sofia Coppola, Kristen Stewart, Hugh Grant, and Tilda Swinton, the heavy security presence kept the event exclusive, forcing local bystanders to resort to standing on nearby pub benches in order to catch a glimpse of the action.

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Earlier this week, as the event area was still accessible, enthusiastic residents of Manchester recorded themselves strutting down the soon-to-be catwalk and shared the videos on social media. Meanwhile, individuals living in flats overlooking the Northern Quarter provided a sneak peek of the final dress rehearsals to the world. One comment lamented, "Chanel has made it to Manchester, but local residents are not able to attend." Shortly before the doors opened, a TikToker offered to live stream the event on the app in exchange for 1000 more followers, garnering over 400,000 views.

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Actor Kristen Stewart was one of the celebrities seen at Chanel's Manchester show.

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And if you were expecting Viard to interpret the rebellious Mancuian spirit literally with safety pins, tartan and studded leather, you might be disappointed, too.

But Chanels artisans managed to create their own brand of anarchy. One particularly remarkable instance was a knee-length black overcoat adorned with raw-hemmed, deconstructed appliqué flowers in a vibrant mix of red, white, and black. "The collection revolved around tweed," explained Lemairé creative director Christelle Kocher backstage. "I sought to infuse the punk energy, the music, and my perception of Manchester and the UK." It took Kocher's team, responsible for creating flowers and feathers for Chanel, 300 hours to complete the piece. "It's all (made from) different tweed," she remarked about the embellishments, which adorn nearly the entire coat. "We crafted the flowers, then cut them, separated them, and reassembled them to form a truly unique piece. It exudes spontaneity, yet at the same time, demands incredible technical skill."

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This tweed overcoat, featuring deconstructed appliqué flowers, required 300 hours of meticulous craftsmanship. Kocher explained, "It evokes emotion at first, but upon closer inspection, one can appreciate the precision, expertise, and determination to innovate. That's my goal." - Suzanne Plunkett/Reuters