Navigating Eid-al-Fitr amid the Gaza Crisis: Diverse Perspectives of Muslim Americans
As the conflict in Gaza continues, Muslim Americans find themselves reflecting on the significance of Eid-al-Fitr amidst challenging times. While some opt for a more subdued celebration, others remain steadfast in upholding the traditions of the holiday, showcasing a range of perspectives within the community.
In Gaza, where Laila El-Haddad spent summers as a child, Eid-al-Fitr means enjoying sumagiyya, a tangy lamb stew with sumac, chard, and chickpeas. This dish holds a special place in her heart, as it is often served during joyous occasions, especially the three-day Muslim holiday that marks the end of Ramadan. Her aunt used to make this dish, and she fondly remembers savoring bowlfuls of sumagiyya during family celebrations. Today, El-Haddad lives in Maryland with her husband and four children but still carries the memories of this traditional meal from her childhood in Gaza.
But this Eid, the sumagiyya will have a bittersweet taste. It all started at sundown on April 9.
El-Haddad shared with CNN that her aunt An’am Dalloul, along with her cousins Hoda, Wafaa, and Hani, tragically lost their lives in an Israeli airstrike in their Gaza City neighborhood last November.
Dalloul, also known as "Um Hani" which means "mother of Hani" in Arabic, shared her family's recipes and culinary traditions with El-Haddad. El-Haddad dedicated many hours interviewing her for the cookbook "The Gaza Kitchen" published in 2012.
An’am Dalloul, El-Haddad's aunt who taught her about Gazan cuisine, was killed in an Israeli airstrike last November, El-Haddad told CNN.
An’am Dalloul, El-Haddad's aunt who taught her about Gazan cuisine, was killed in an Israeli airstrike last November, El-Haddad told CNN.
Maggie Schmitt
Gaza and its people are currently facing a crisis, as their traditions are being threatened.
According to the Palestinian Ministry of Health, more than 33,000 people have been killed due to Israel's ongoing siege on Gaza following attacks by Hamas on Israel on October 7. This violence has caused destruction to neighborhoods, cultural landmarks, and historic sites, pushing the population to the brink of starvation and famine.
Some Muslim American communities are not feeling up to a big Eid celebration, as the war continues with no end in sight after over six months.
Despite feeling overwhelmed and hopeless, El-Haddad's determination to mark the holiday has grown stronger.
She expressed feeling panicked, with a sense of urgency, desperation, and the need to bake, cook, and make sure everything is done before it's too late. One chef sees celebrating Eid as an act of resistance.
El-Haddad is dedicated to keeping the traditional food culture of her country alive. She has been busy getting ready for Eid.
In a recent interview with CNN over the phone, El-Haddad and her daughter were busy making ka'ik, which are ring-shaped cookies filled with date paste. It is a common practice in Gaza to make a lot of these cookies during Eid and other special occasions to share with loved ones.
Ahead of Eid, El-Haddad and her daughters prepare ka'ik, traditional ring-shaped cookies stuffed with date paste.
Ahead of Eid, El-Haddad and her daughters prepare ka'ik, traditional ring-shaped cookies stuffed with date paste.
Laila El-Haddad
At a time when nearly 2 million Palestinians in the territory are displaced and struggling to find enough food and water, El-Haddad says she finds empowerment in these traditions.
She mentioned that being able to do this is uplifting because it makes her feel like she has some control.
She is aware that people in Gaza have limited access to food, let alone the specific ingredients required for making ka’ik or sumagiyya.
For the past 17 years, Israel has enforced a blockade on the Gaza Strip, restricting the flow of essential goods and food supplies into the area. Israel claims this is necessary to protect its citizens from Hamas. The blockade has become more severe since October, with reports from humanitarian workers and government officials indicating that Israel is consistently hindering aid delivery to Gaza. (Israel maintains that it supports the entry of humanitarian aid for Gaza residents and is focused on combating Hamas, not the ordinary people of Gaza.)
In light of this situation, El-Haddad views celebrating Eid as an act of defiance. According to reports from individuals currently in Gaza, she is not the only one who sees it this way.
A soup kitchen in northern Gaza, supported by El-Haddad, is encouraging people to make ka'ik using any ingredients they have available.
In Rafah, the southern part of Gaza where around 1.5 million displaced Palestinians are seeking shelter and where Israel is considering a ground offensive, a cousin shared in a WhatsApp message with CNN that his family plans to cook sumagiyya despite the challenging circumstances, even if it may have a hint of missile and bomb debris.
"In that situation, when you are experiencing deep feelings of loss and displacement, cooking a dish like sumagiyya or observing Eid becomes even more meaningful," El-Haddad explained.
On the other hand, some Muslim Americans may not feel like celebrating.
For some Muslim Americans, the ongoing assault on Gaza has overshadowed the Eid celebrations.
In New Jersey, the Palestinian American Community Center in Patterson, also known as Little Palestine, organized a demonstration vowing "no Eid while Gaza has no Eid." Additionally, three sources familiar with the plans revealed to CNN that several people declined invitations to the White House's iftar dinner, due to their frustration over President Joe Biden's support of Israel amidst the humanitarian crisis in Gaza.
Given the humanitarian crisis in Gaza, some Muslim American communities are not in the mood for elaborate Eid celebrations this year.
Given the humanitarian crisis in Gaza, some Muslim American communities are not in the mood for elaborate Eid celebrations this year.
Laura Oliverio/CNN
Arafat Herzallah, owner of the Palestinian restaurant Freekeh in San Francisco, said Eid will be difficult for him this year.
He expressed disappointment that a ceasefire by Eid at the start of Ramadan didn't happen as he had hoped. Now, he doesn't see it happening at all. This has made it difficult for him to celebrate.
During the quiet hours before dawn in Ramadan, Herzallah spends time reflecting on the stark differences between his life in the US and the struggles faced by his relatives in Gaza. Despite having many family members still there, the lack of consistent communication leaves him uncertain about their well-being.
One of his cousins lost four sons and is now taking care of his 11 grandchildren. Despite the losses, he remains grateful for his health and safety. This Eid, he intends to visit the mosque to express his gratitude. He hopes to gather his brothers and their children for a meal, although he's unsure if they will be able to join.
If the recent conversations at iftar are any indication, they’ll spend the time talking about what’s happening in Gaza and what, if anything, they can do to help.
Abdul Elenani, along with his wife Ayat Masoud, owns the Palestinian restaurant Ayat in New York. According to Abdul, Eid for his family this year will be a quiet affair. They will pray and fulfill their religious duties, but the usual holiday celebrations will be toned down.
He is noticing a somber atmosphere among his restaurant customers as well. In the past, Elenani mentioned that his restaurants used to be filled with large groups of people coming together to break their fast during Ramadan evenings. However, this year, it appears that people are no longer interested in going out.
According to him, the excitement of breaking the fast is no longer there. This change seems to have impacted everyone in some way.
Cooking is keeping her heritage alive
El-Haddad, the cookbook author, knows it might seem futile to labor over Gazan recipes at a time when the people of the territory are barely surviving.
Food is not just about sustenance for her. It holds a deep cultural significance. She believes that food represents history and community in Gaza. It is essential to preserve these aspects to keep the spirit of Gaza alive.
In her view, losing traditional food practices would mean losing a vital part of their identity. Without traditions, there would be nothing left.
Sumagiyya, a dish native to Gaza City, is typically prepared for festive occasions such as Eid.
Sumagiyya, a dish native to Gaza City, is typically prepared for festive occasions such as Eid.
Laila El-Haddad
After her aunt passed away in Gaza last November, El-Haddad revisited old transcripts of interviews she did for "The Gaza Kitchen," the cookbook she wrote with Maggie Schmitt. She remembered the conversations in her aunt's kitchen over a decade ago, where her aunt shared pictures and stories of the grandmother El-Haddad never had the chance to meet. One memory that stood out was how her grandmother used to bring sumagiyya to the beach on Fridays.
El-Haddad's aunt kindly offered to pass down the recipe for the dish just like her grandmother used to make. However, feeling tired after a long day, El-Haddad politely declined, suggesting they could revisit it another day.
Sadly, El-Haddad never got the chance to learn her grandmother's special recipe for sumagiyya. With her aunt, the connection to the traditional cuisine of Gaza, no longer around, the recipe remains a mystery to her.
On Eid, El-Haddad plans to pay tribute to her aunt by preparing sumagiyya in her own style. While it may not have the exact taste of her aunt and grandmother's recipe, she takes comfort in passing down this tradition to the next generation, just as they did.
Editor's P/S:
The article paints a vivid picture of the bittersweet emotions surrounding Eid al-Fitr for Palestinian communities amid the ongoing crisis in Gaza. For Laila El-Haddad, the holiday brings both joy and sorrow, as she recalls her childhood memories of celebrating with her family in Gaza. The loss of her aunt and cousins in an Israeli airstrike last year adds a poignant layer to her observance this year, making her determined to preserve the traditional food culture of her homeland as an act of defiance.
The article also highlights the impact of the crisis on Muslim American communities, with some choosing to scale back Eid celebrations out of solidarity with those suffering in Gaza. The ongoing humanitarian crisis, including the Israeli blockade on essential goods and food supplies, has created immense hardship for the people of Gaza, making it difficult for them to observe the holiday in the same way as in the past. Despite the challenges, the article emphasizes the importance of tradition and cultural heritage in preserving the spirit of Gaza and its people, even in the face of adversity.
