Unveiling the Remarkable Origins of the Fair Isle Sweater

The Fair Isle knit, a two-stranded knitting tradition originating off the coast of Scotland, has been a wardrobe staple for well over 100 years, beloved by members of the royal family and JLo alike. It's as relevant on the runways of 2023 as in the knitting catalogs of 1960, and has kept everyone from 18th century fisherman to Mick Jagger warm. Luxury brands like Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Chanel, Celine, Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Versace, and Dries van Noten have all showcased their versions of the heritage knit on the catwalk in the last five years. London-based designer Molly Goddard has even made the pattern something of an unofficial signature, consistently pairing a structured Fair Isle-style knit with a flouncy, tulle skirt in almost every collection.

In summary, it has become a perennially trendy winter classic; for those in the northern hemisphere, it's the perfect piece to reach for as soon as the nights get longer until sweater weather fades. With that being said, even in Los Angeles, Hailey Bieber was seen wearing a Khaite caramel and blue Fair Isle style knit cardigan while grabbing coffee on December 19.

Hailey Bieber sported a Fair Isle-style knit while out in Los Angeles on December 19.

Lese/Backgrid

Named after the island of Fair Isle, part of the Shetland archipelago located about 100 miles off the northeastern coast of Scotland, this knitting technique originated in fisherman's hats during the 18th and 19th centuries, long before the beloved sweaters we know today. The two-strand pattern not only showcased artistic talent, but also made the tall, conical shaped caps extra warm by doubling the textile mass, often featuring a knitted interior lining.

The traditional Fair Isle knit typically follows an OXO pattern, with a geometric O followed by an X, repeated throughout the garment. Some knitters fill the O shape with symbols such as crosses, snowflakes, or a central dot called a "goose's eye". What sets them apart from other fishing workwear is the vivid color palette. "They used blue, red, yellow, a natural white and a natural brown, called Shetland black," said Dr. Carol Christiansen, the curator and community museums officer at the Shetland Textile Museum. The museum has a large collection of pieces dating back as far as 1850. "The idea was that the skippers wore brighter colors so they were more easily seen, either from the land or by other boats."

But how did functional workwear become one of fashions most enduring designs?

Even A listers such as Jennifer Lopez, seen here with Ben Affleck leaving the Winter Garden Theatre in New York in 2022, are fans of the Fair Isle style.

James Devaney/GC Images/Getty Images

Dr. Christensen stated in an interview that the colorful hats worn by the Fair Isle workers became popular among fishermen in the 19th century. This led to an increase in tourism and trade in Shetland, with the pattern soon being incorporated into various clothing items.

The Fair Isle style gained popularity in the 1920s when a portrait of then-Prince Edward by Sir Henry Lander was painted in 1923, associating the design with sportsmanship. The British royal, fresh off the golf course, was depicted wearing a muted Fair Isle v-neck and tartan flat cap, helping to catapult the style into the mainstream. This coincided with changes in women's fashion, as looser, more comfortable garments overtook the restrictive corsets and petticoats, championed by designers such as Paul Poiret and Gabrielle Chanel. Fair Isle became a symbol of family in the 1940s and 50s, featured in women's knitting pattern books and worn by entire nuclear family units, evoking ideas of tradition, convention, and wholesome living that modern designers still use to evoke nostalgia today.

Designer Molly Goddard regularly features a Fair Isle knit during her shows at London Fashion Week.

In a recent Zoom interview, senior knitwear designer Emma Brooks of British label Toast expressed her belief that clothing with a distinct sense of time and place creates a feeling of belonging for people. The brand consistently features Fair Isle knits in their Fall-Winter collections, and has established a partnership with a specialized factory in Scotland, as well as collaborating with local Scottish yarn spinners. According to Brooks, the knitted jumper with a motif around the yoke is both flattering and provides a pop of color without being too overwhelming, making it appealing for a wide range of dressers.

While the traditional Fair Isle design has never been officially trademarked, it possesses a heritage quality that is difficult to replicate, although many have attempted to do so. In 2015, Chanel rekindled their connection to the pattern by featuring it in a Metier dArts collection in Rome, which was dedicated to celebrating the craftsmanship of their ateliers. However, this move sparked controversy when independent Shetland label Mati Ventrillon accused Chanel of copying her designs following a visit to her studio for research. Chanel eventually issued an apology and credited Ventrillon in their subsequent marketing materials promoting the show.

It became a family friendly design. Children would wear smaller Fair Isle pieces that matched their mother and father, often knitted from left over yarn.

Bert Hardy/Picture Post/Getty Images

Dr. Christiansen now believes that trademarking the craft of Fair Isle is nearly impossible. "There have been attempts, but it's difficult since we never established a specific place designation," she stated. Additionally, there are issues with cattle breeding, meaning that not all Fair Isle knits created on Shetland are made with wool from Shetland sheep. "It gets really complicated," she added. "It's a pity because now it's probably too late. Fair Isle is being produced all over the world."