Unveiling the Legends of Japan's Magnificent 600-Mile Michinoku Coastal Trail
Discover the captivating Michinoku Coastal Trail in Japan, an epic 600-mile journey stretching across Honshu Island's northeast coast Traverse four prefectures and 29 municipalities, embarking on guided treks or shorter hikes Uncover breathtaking trail highlights and plan your adventure with ease
Please note that this CNN Travel series is sponsored by the destination it features, but CNN maintains editorial control over the content, adhering to our policy. Japan is a hiker's dream, with diverse landscapes that range from city escapes to rugged seaside cliffs and alpine forests, perfect for both short hikes and extended treks.
The country's newest addition to the "epic hike" club is truly exceptional. The Michinoku Coastal Trail, spanning over 1,000 kilometers (621 miles) along the northeast Pacific coast of the main island of Honshu, crosses through four prefectures and 29 municipalities, providing a delightful blend of scenery, culture, and cuisine.
Launched in 2019, this project is part of an effort to attract more visitors to the Tohoku region of Japan, which was severely affected by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. The route is named after the ancient term "Michinoku," meaning "end of the road," referring to the country's northeastern region.
Few people are as familiar with the trail as Robin Lewis, the Japanese-British founder of the Michinoku Trail Walker Project, a website dedicated to assisting others in experiencing the journey to the fullest.
"Whether youre a seasoned long-distance hiker or looking for a day trip with the family, the trail has something for everyone," Lewis tells CNN Travel.
Tohoku: A Japan destination for all seasons
The Michinoku Coastal Trail, with its breathtaking natural scenery, delectable northern cuisine, and distinctive culture of the Tohoku region, offers a one-of-a-kind destination. Additionally, the opportunity to both learn from and assist in the reconstruction of a disaster-affected area adds to its unique appeal. Despite being established a few years ago, the trail has only recently been accessible to most international travelers due to the pandemic, with restrictions expected to lift by late 2022.
The trail stands out from the numerous other impressive hiking routes in the country due to its relative obscurity, particularly among Japanese tourists. According to Lewis, just 2% of international travelers explore the Tohoku region.
"I have hiked several other trails in Japan, such as the well-known Kumano Kodo and Shinetsu Trail, and in my opinion, the Michinoku Coastal Trail provides a more off-the-beaten-path adventure."
Robin Lewis, founder of the Michinoku Trail Walker Project, completed the full 1,000-kilometer journey in 2022.
Robin Takashi Lewis
An adventure with a purpose
Lewis has a strong personal tie to the Tohoku region. His maternal family originates from Miyagi, one of the four prefectures the trail passes through. He directly experienced the immense destruction brought about by the 2011 earthquake, which he describes as a "significant turning point" in his life.
For the next six years, Lewis dedicated himself to volunteering in areas affected by natural disasters, both in Japan and globally. This experience fueled his passion for making a positive social impact, leading him to pursue a career in this field. In 2015, he first learned about the Michinoku Coastal Trail and felt compelled to walk the entire trail due to his desire to support the recovery of the Tohoku region and his love for outdoor adventure.
The garden has been named the most beautiful in Japan for more than 20 years because of its stunning and well-maintained natural beauty.
During both instances, Lewis captured photographs and posted about his adventures on the internet while walking. He even delivered a TEDx presentation about his travels and the numerous spontaneous acts of kindness he encountered. "I was truly taken aback by the feedback I garnered and the worldwide interest," he reminisces.
As time passed, the number of inquiries I received regarding how others could embark on the journey themselves steadily increased. This prompted me to establish the website - with the goal of assisting travelers, especially those from overseas, in understanding the trail, organizing their trips, and discovering the wonders of the Tohoku region.
In the northern section of the trail, the Tanesashi coastline is a walkers paradise, with relatively flat stretches of trail covering large grassy meadows, says Lewis.
Robin Takashi Lewis
Guided treks and shorter hikes
There are two Michinoku Coastal Trail heads - the one in the north starts in Hachinohe City, in Aomori prefecture. The other is Soma City, in Fukushima prefecture in the south.
The average hiker takes 40-50 days to walk the entire trail, which is too long for many people. However, there are multiple access points along the trail, allowing for shorter hikes, and guided tours are also available.
Walk Japan, with over thirty years of experience in organizing hikes, provides fully-guided nine-day treks during the optimal Spring and Fall seasons for a multi-day trail adventure. According to CEO Paul Christie, all of their tours have seen increased demand since Japan's emergence from the pandemic, with particular excitement surrounding the Michinoku Coastal Trail tour.
"We continuously add new departures, and they quickly reach full capacity," he tells CNN Travel.
"Japan has countless trails, but the Michinoku Coastal Trail stands out for its stunning coastal views and abundance of seafood cuisine. What makes it truly special, however, is its people. Witnessing the resilience and determination of the locals who greet visitors with exceptional warmth and generosity is truly extraordinary."
Experience the awe-inspiring beauty of Japan's most stunning temples with a 1,015 step journey. Walk Japan's adventure begins in Hachinohe, leading travelers along the picturesque coastal trail, with breathtaking views of towering cliffs and intricate inlets and bays.
During our journey, we explore some of Japan's most stunning natural landmarks, such as the iconic pine tree coastlines and Jodogahama, a striking cliff made of white sandstone surrounded by brilliant emerald waters.
Our meals consist of a diverse selection of local seafood, such as abalone, oysters, clams, salmon, and squid from the renowned waters of Tohoku's Sanriku Coast. For accommodations, Walk Japan travelers typically stay in seaside hotels with baths that offer sweeping views of the ocean, providing a tranquil and luxurious way to unwind before enjoying our delicious evening meals.
Christie describes the trail as challenging and recommends it for confident trekkers due to rugged terrain and steep slopes. Despite the effort, the diverse and stunning scenery makes it worthwhile. Walk Japan also provides a 10-day Michinoku option for self-guided tours in addition to guided tours.
The cliffs of Kitayamazaki take on a reddish hue in the morning sun.
I love Photo and Apple./Moment RF/Getty Images
Trail highlights
Similar to Walk Japan's Christie, Lewis has also observed a surge in interest in the newly reopened Michinoku Coastal Trail in 2022. The number of visitors to his website has more than doubled since last year.
"Throughout the pandemic, I was amazed by the number of people eagerly anticipating the reopening of borders so they could embark on the trail - now many of those individuals have finally been able to make it a reality," he says.
"Additionally, with the current weakness of the Japanese yen, now is an ideal time for foreign visitors to make a trip here. For those with limited time, Lewis suggests focusing on the northern section, particularly from the Hachinohe trailhead to Miyako city for a quick sampling of the trail."
"The landscapes are wild and varied, from idyllic beaches to islands and ancient tunnels," he says.
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The trail section along the cliffs of Kitayamazaki and Unosu in Iwate is undeniably one of the most remarkable highlights of the trail. Although there are some challenging inclines and declines, it is essential to take in the incredible 200-meter cliffs and explore the hand-dug tunnels nearby, which most visitors don't venture into.
Meanwhile, at the northern end, Tanesashi Kaigan in Aomori is described as a paradise for walkers, with relatively flat stretches of trail that traverse vast grassy meadows and offer stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.
"Take a leisurely stroll along the nearby Osuka beach, known for its pristine and untouched squeaky sand that makes a unique sound with every step," he suggests.
For those looking to conquer the entire 1,000 kilometers, Lewis suggests taking it slow and steady.
"There's an abundance of sights to see, food and drink to savor, and knowledge to gain," he advises. "While it may be tempting to hurry through, I recommend allocating plenty of time and flexibility in your schedule to embrace the unexpected.
"For me, and from the numerous anecdotes I've heard from other hikers, it's the impromptu encounters (even when language is a barrier!) and the little detours and diversions that make the journey truly extraordinary."
When asked about his most memorable moment from the journey, Lewis recalls a chance encounter during his mountain pass trek. After enduring four hours of walking in heavy rain, he found himself standing in the entrance of a small, dimly lit shop in a quiet village, completely drenched and questioning his life decisions.
Before entering, I shook off as much water as possible and then began looking for a bento box, my shoes squelching with every step. Ten minutes later, I found myself sitting under a kotatsu, sipping on a hot cup of tea and enjoying a warm bowl of ramen noodles as my clothes dried by the stove. Chiba-san, the shopkeeper, insisted I warm up and wait out the storm in the attached family home. According to Lewis, the hours flew by as he chatted with the family, which included an 83-year-old former professional boxer and table tennis player ojiisan (grandfather) who was indomitable.
After hours, he emerged into the spring afternoon, "with a smile on his face, feeling refreshed and prepared for the journey ahead."
Lewis reflects, "The Michinoku Coastal Trail not only provides breathtaking scenery and the freshest seafood, but it's the unexpected encounters that truly make it unforgettable."
Access and planning
The trail spans four prefectures: Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, and Fukushima. Accessing much of the trail is made convenient by Japan's renowned Shinkansen bullet train network, with both trail heads in Hachinohe and Soma City easily reachable.
The Lewis Michinoku Trail website provides hikers with a range of route options, along with a selection of accommodations, budgeting tips, and other valuable information. Another valuable resource for those planning a trip to Tohoku is the Michinoku Trail Club, offering detailed advice in both Japanese and English, as well as regular news updates on detours and weather warnings.
