Unveiling Elton John's Captivating Photography Collection

The exhibition "Fragile Beauty" showcases extremes at London's Victoria & Albert museum. It features "Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection," offering a mix of glitzy and gritty, pop and poignant moments. The collection includes high-gloss portraits of Marilyn Monroe alongside raw snapshots of Nan Goldin, capturing themes of love, loss, sensuality, and suffering.

According to exhibition co-curator Duncan Forbes, the title "Fragile Beauty" was chosen by Elton John and symbolizes the vulnerability inherent in the human experience. It serves as a common thread running through the entire show, highlighting the delicate nature of existence.

Since the 1990s, the British singer-songwriter and his filmmaker husband have collected around 7,000 works. V&A director Tristram Hunt describes their collection as "one of the great contemporary photography collections of our era". Previously exhibited in Atlanta in 2000 and at London's Tate Modern in 2016, the latest exhibition showcases over 300 images spanning from the midcentury to the present day.

Tyler Mitchell's "Simply Fragile," 2022 is the most contemporary piece in Elton's collection.

Tyler Mitchell's "Simply Fragile," 2022 is the most contemporary piece in Elton's collection.

Courtesy Tyler Mitchell

Among the earliest works featured is Richard Avedon's 1955 photograph titled "Dovima with Elephants". This iconic image was part of a fashion shoot for Harper’s Bazaar magazine and reflects Avedon's view of photography as an escape from reality. On the other hand, the most recent piece on display is from 2022 by Tyler Mitchell, a 29-year-old American photographer known for his Vogue cover of Beyoncé. Titled "Simply Fragile", this delicate portrayal of a boy with a beetle on his nose is a part of Mitchell's vision of a "Black utopia".

Bobby kisses Cortez udring a play fight at the barracks of Second Platoon at the Korengal Outpost. Korengal Valley, Kunar Province, Afghanistan. June 2008.

Bobby kisses Cortez udring a play fight at the barracks of Second Platoon at the Korengal Outpost.Korengal Valley, Kunar Province, Afghanistan.June 2008.

Tim Hetherington

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The show is not presented in chronological order. Instead, it is divided into different "chapters" such as "Fashion," "Stars of Stage Screen and Studio," "Reportage," and "Desire." These themes reflect how John and Furnish incorporate the prints into their daily lives, displaying them in a salon-style across their homes in London and Los Angeles.

Newell Harbin, the director of The Sir Elton John and David Furnish Photography Collection and a co-curator of the exhibition "Fragile Beauty," describes the unique collection in their homes. In their LA house, they have rare and sought-after early dyed transfer prints by (William) Eggleston adorning the dining room walls. Meanwhile, their Atlanta home is filled with many stunning prints by (Peter) Hujars, showcasing the diversity and depth of their collection.

The collection not only showcases beautiful and rare prints but also reflects the personal tastes and experiences of Elton John and David Furnish. It is a visual representation of their lives and passions, making it a collection that truly "speaks to" Elton John.

"We started putting together this exhibition right at Elton and David's kitchen table," said Forbes. "It's a very personal collection. Unlike some collections curated by art advisers, this one was lovingly put together by the two men themselves."

Tom Bianchi's "Fire Island Pines." All the pieces in John and Furnish's collection "speak to them" says show co-curator Newell Harbin.

Tom Bianchi's "Fire Island Pines." All the pieces in John and Furnish's collection "speak to them" says show co-curator Newell Harbin.

Courtesy Tom Bianchi/Fahey Klein Gallery Los Angeles

Harbin has been working closely with John and Furnish since 2010, helping to build and shape the collection through constant dialogue. She emphasizes that each piece must "speak to them," not just be from a big name in the art scene. The process is organic, with new works consistently being added, such as Avedon's 1981 portrait of Ronald Fisher featured in the recent "Fragile Beauty" show at Christie’s.

Newell finds the last self-portrait of Robert Mapplethorpe to be one of the most powerful works in the exhibition. The image of the American photographer holding a skull-topped walking cane is a poignant reminder of his tragic death from Aids at a young age. Mapplethorpe, known for his portraits, sensual flower depictions, and portrayals of New York's gay bars, left a lasting impact. Newell notes how the collection ties into the lives of John and Furnish, as well as their work with the Elton John Aids Foundation.

Casa Alférez, Cañada De Alferes, Mexico, designed by Ludwig Godefroy.

Casa Alférez, Cañada De Alferes, Mexico, designed by Ludwig Godefroy.

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In the exhibition, there is a focus on gay liberation. For example, a photo from Sunil Gupta's "Christopher Street" series shows the visibility of the gay community in 1970s New York. The display also highlights queer artists, such as George Platt Lynes from the 1940s and Zanele Muholi from South Africa, whose self-portraits emphasize the visibility of Black queer individuals.

Peter Hujar's "Candy Darling on her Deathbed," taken in 1975.

Peter Hujar's "Candy Darling on her Deathbed," taken in 1975.

The room titled “Desire” is a cheerful tribute to the male body. It features Mel Roberts’ photographs from the 1970s for the magazine “The Young Physique”, Gilbert & George’s “Naked Body” from 1991, Ryan McGinley’s candid and personal “Having Sex”, and Don Herron’s trio of “Tub Shots” capturing queer artists Keith Haring, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Peter Hujar during a bath.

Photography as a visual journal

In one section called “Fragile Beauty”, you can find works by Mapplethorpe, Hujar, and McGinley. The collection includes a powerful portrait of a 14-year-old Seattle prostitute named “Tiny” by documentary photographer Mary Ellen Mark. The space also showcases an immersive floor-to-ceiling display of Goldin’s series “Thanksgiving”, consisting of 149 photos taken between 1973 and 1999. These images serve as a visual diary of the downtown New York art scene, capturing the artist's own struggles, the impact of drug addiction and Aids on her friends, and the aftermath of an abusive relationship.

After leaving rehab in 1990, John started to collect photography. His own struggles with addiction played a significant role in influencing his choice. According to Harbin, John has shared how seeing a print for the first time with clear, sober eyes was a powerful moment for him. This moment took place during a lunch meeting with photography dealer David Fahey at a chateau in the south of France.

Elton even features in some of his own collection, as shown in David LaChapelle's "Elton John, Egg On His Face," 1999.

Elton even features in some of his own collection, as shown in David LaChapelle's "Elton John, Egg On His Face," 1999.

Courtesy David LaChapelle

Fahey recalled how he had just met a collector in London who had a bunch of photographs with him. He decided to show them to everyone, including Elton. John was moved by the pictures taken by 20th-century fashion photographers like Irving Penn, Herb Ritts, and Horst P. Horst. He chose around 10 photos and generously gave half of them to their host, showcasing his love for sharing photographs with others.

In a message to Fahey in the catalog for John's 2000 exhibition in Atlanta, the singer expressed gratitude for their first meeting. He mentioned that without it, he would still be unaware of the beauty of photography. Thanks to Fahey, his eyes were opened to a visually captivating world.

Fahey mentioned that John is a passionate collector. He observed how John's interest has shifted from collecting visually appealing objects to focusing on hardcore documentary and photojournalism.

Elton has collected several of Robert Mapplethorpe's works, including "Poppy," 1988.

Elton has collected several of Robert Mapplethorpe's works, including "Poppy," 1988.

Courtesy Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation

The "Reportage" section at the V&A is truly remarkable. It focuses on photography from the American civil rights movement. One standout piece, according to Forbes, is by New York-based African American artist Roy DeCarava. Forbes described it as "one of the most beautiful photographs I've ever seen in my life." Interestingly, DeCarava's work is rarely displayed in Britain. Another familiar image is the viral photograph by Associated Press photographer Julio Cortez, capturing a protester in Minneapolis in May 2020 after the tragic death of George Floyd.

While the range of images can be overwhelming at times, Hunt summarizes the exhibition by saying, "There is a richness, drama, beauty, and tragedy in this exhibition that I have rarely seen in a photography show."

“Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection,” is on at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, until January 5. 2025.

Editor's P/S:

The "Fragile Beauty" exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London offers a captivating exploration of the power and vulnerability inherent in human existence. Curated from the extensive collection of Sir Elton John and David Furnish, the exhibition showcases over 300 photographs spanning from midcentury to the present day.

Through a diverse array of images capturing themes of love, loss, sensuality, and suffering, "Fragile Beauty" highlights the delicate nature of life. The collection reflects the personal tastes and experiences of John and Furnish, featuring both iconic works by renowned photographers and intimate snapshots that offer a glimpse into their own lives. The exhibition not only celebrates the beauty of photography as an art form but also serves as a poignant reminder of the fragility and resilience of the human spirit.