I have often contemplated the factor that gives style its enduring influence. This contemplation has been particularly significant as I have been writing my book titled "CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, a life in fashion." In this book, I explore the lasting impact on fashion left by the late wife of John F Kennedy Jr.
Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, a fashion executive at Calvin Klein, tragically passed away nearly 25 years ago at the young age of 33. She lost her life in a private plane crash off Marthas Vineyard, alongside her husband, who was 38 at the time, and her sister Lauren, who was 34.
Despite the existence of only approximately 100 public photographs featuring her, Bessette Kennedy continues to be a prominent presence on the mood boards of fashion designers, make-up artists, and even hair colorists. The question remains: How can we account for the lasting influence of a woman recently referred to as a "ghost influencer" by the New York Times?
Bessette Kennedy at the Fire and Ice Ball in Los Angeles in 1998. She often stuck to a color palette of black, white or beige.
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Carolyn Bessette, as she was known back then, first gained public attention in 1994 when she started dating the son of the late president John F. Kennedy and Jackie Kennedy Onassis. Their relationship seemed like a fairytale to the public: JFK Jr, who was considered America's most eligible bachelor, had previously dated celebrities like Daryl Hannah, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Madonna. On the other hand, Bessette was not a famous Hollywood star but rather a relatively unknown figure in Kennedy Jr's social circles.
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But Bessette Kennedy was not fond of being in the spotlight. The couple had a reputation for being extremely private and made an effort to keep their relationship out of the public eye. Carolyn never participated in any interviews, there are no recordings of her, and she never made any public speeches. However, this did little to decrease the public's fascination with them.
appeared in photos taken of CBK wherever she went, often without her consent.
Bessette Kennedy in blue jeans and a black tank while walking her dog Friday.
Lawrence Schwartzwald/Sygma/Getty Images
Tall and sporting a chic ponytail that often revealed her blonde hair, Bessette Kennedy effortlessly transitioned between a relaxed girl-next-door look and an elevated uptown glamour. Known for her trademark red lipstick, rumored to be Cranberry Veil by Face Stockholm, she had a knack for appearing both casual and incredibly elegant.
Clare Waight Keller, the former Givenchy designer who also created Meghan, Duchess of Sussex's wedding dress, shared her experiences with Bessette Kennedy in a 2019 article for British Marie Claire. Both women had worked together at Calvin Klein in New York, and Waight Keller vividly remembers witnessing Bessette Kennedy's amazing transformations. She would stroll into the office looking like she had just rolled out of bed, only to completely morph into the most exquisitely stylish presence when she had important meetings.
A private life
Not surprisingly, in September 1996, the couple opted for complete privacy and decided to tie the knot at an African Baptist church located on Cumberland Island, which is part of a secluded archipelago off the coast of Georgia.
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Abrams. However, this event ironically solidified Bessette Kennedy's reputation as a fashion icon. She opted for a daring and unconventional wedding gown, a pearl white silk crepe sheath dress with a cowl neck decolletage. The dress was designed by a relatively unknown former Calvin Klein designer named Narciso Rodriguez. To pay homage to tradition, she added a silk tulle veil and opera gloves.
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Halcyon days and nights passed in the bustling streets of New York City, as Carolyn and John Jr effortlessly claimed their status as the chic couple of the era. Embracing their social engagements and savoring the vibrant lifestyle of Tribeca in Manhattan, their residence showcased a trendy loft apartment.
Bessette Kennedy's minimalist style involved minimal jewelry, even with evening wear.
Richard Corkery/NY Daily News Archive/Getty Images
If the world was expecting a re-run of her mother-in-law Jackie Kennedys famous fashion choicespieces by Valentino, for example, or Yves Saint Laurentthey could think again.
A fashion chameleon
Bessette Kennedy's daytime attire typically consisted of Levis and white button-down shirts, but when it came to eveningwear, she truly epitomized understatement. Carolyn was a staunch advocate of Yohji Yamamoto, a renowned Japanese designer renowned for his avant-garde style and impeccable tailoring skills. Yamamoto skillfully blended sportswear aesthetics with traditional Japanese fabrics, resulting in exquisite designs.
Petite-framed oval sunglasses were another go-to for Bessette Kennedy.
With effortless ease, Carolyn flawlessly translated the language of conceptual minimalism using linear shapes and a strict color palette of black, white, and beige.
Princess Diana's style legacy remains evident in contemporary fashion. Her sartorial choices, particularly her Yohji looks, were a harmonious blend of black and white. Her unconventional ensemble included a mandarin collar jacket with intricate button detailing and a unique curved hemline. Known for her ability to mix and match separates effortlessly, Diana initially paired the jacket with a black silk midi skirt. However, for a daytime event, she ingeniously switched to a white cotton midi skirt, effectively altering the context of the outfit. One of her memorable evening ensembles consisted of a white crossover shirt paired with a black silk ruffled midi skirt, resulting in a sophisticated and feminine interpretation of the tuxedo suit.
Crisp white shirts were another of her fashion mainstays.
Other designers, including CBK, also embraced the same style directive, showcasing their affinity for brands like Prada, Ann Demuelemeester, and Miu Miu. Accessorizing was kept minimal, with shoes predominantly featuring her favorite Manolo Blahnik "Carolynes."
Why has this understatement captivated the fashion world? Why does Bessette Kennedy continue to inspire us even years after her tragic death?
In my book, I asked Edward Enninful, the outgoing editor of British Vogue magazine, this very question. After a thoughtful pause, he replied, "It's something you either have or you don't." According to Manolo Blahnik, her "it" factor is defined by having that elusive, desirable "little bit extra."
Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and her husband John F. Kennedy Jr walk their dog in Manhattan.
Evan Agostini/Getty Images
Twenty-five years after her passing, the enigmatic style of Bessette Kennedy continues to captivate and gain popularity among a new, younger generation through platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy effortlessly exuded an aura of effortlessness, despite the challenges she faced.
"CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, a life in fashion," by Sunita Kumar Nair is published by Abrams books and out now.