The Keffiyeh Unveiled: Unraveling the Significance of this Scarf as a Palestinian Icon
The keffiyeh, a traditional Palestinian scarf, holds deep cultural and historical significance Discover how it evolved into a powerful symbol of resistance, unity, and identity for Palestinians Explore its meaning, origins, and the impact it has had on global fashion
Three Palestinian college students in Vermont were shot over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, two of them while wearing keffiyehs. Their families believe the crime was motivated by hate.
While keffiyehs are worn throughout the Middle East, they have become a symbol of Palestinian identity and resistance in recent years. During pro-Palestinian protests, demonstrators often wear the scarves around their necks or use them to cover their faces. This is particularly true during the Israel-Hamas conflict.
The keffiyeh, originally worn by shepherds and nomadic farmers, has become an iconic piece of clothing globally. It is worn by anti-colonialist revolutionaries, activists, and the like while still being worn in the traditional headwear fashion by elders and farmers," said Majeed Malhas, a Palestinian-Canadian journalist and PhD candidate in anthropology at the University of Toronto.
Historians trace the history of the keffiyeh to nomadic Bedouin farmers in historic Palestine, who use the scarves as protection from the sun and sand.
Bettmann Archive/Getty Images
What is a keffiyeh?
The keffiyeh, also known as kufiyya or kaffiyeh, is a customary scarf that is commonly worn in various regions of the Middle East. It is usually adorned in black and white or red and white, with distinct patterns and tassels along the edges.
Wafa Ghnaim, an expert in Palestinian clothing history, explained to CNN that before the 1920s, keffiyehs (also known as hattahs or shamaghs) were primarily worn by nomadic Bedouin men in historic Palestine.
"In this region, headdresses were worn by people of all genders. However, the styles differed between villagers, townspeople, and Bedouins," she clarified.
Bedouin men would drape the keffiyeh over their heads, securing it in place with aqal or headrope. The scarves not only symbolize Bedouin identity but also offer protection from the harsh desert elements of sun and sand.
The patterns woven into each keffiyeh reflect various aspects of Palestine, including symbols like the olive tree and fishnet, according to Malhas speaking to CNN.
The red and white keffiyeh is also associated with Jordanian nationalism due to its use by British commanders in the Desert Patrol, a Bedouin unit of the Arab Legion. Malhas also noted that Palestinian activists and resistance fighters have worn keffiyehs of all colors.
The scarves are not only worn on the head in the traditional style, but also as neckwear or draped across the shoulders like shawls.
Ghnaim, a research fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, shared with CNN that she often comes across 19th century keffiyehs in her work, made of cotton, silk, and fine wool, with white, black, green, and red threads.
A Palestinian man walks through the Old City of the West Bank town of Hebron on July 24, 2017.
Hazem Bader/AFP/Getty Images
What the keffiyeh means to Palestinians
Many Palestinians and people of Arab descent across the globe consider the keffiyeh to be an essential connection to their cultural identity. Dalia Jacobs, a brand strategist and creative director from Palestine, explained to CNN that she proudly wears a keffiyeh from her hometown of Hebron while traveling internationally.
Wearing the keffiyeh feels like "carrying my home on my shoulders," she expressed, describing the scarf as "a symbol of resistance and existence."
A.S., a 26-year-old Palestinian-American residing in North Carolina, who requested to be identified by her initials for privacy reasons, likened the keffiyeh to "a child's comfort blanket."
The keffiyeh "expresses my identity and holds my family's history wherever I go," she expressed to CNN.
Ghnaim also shared that the keffiyeh is a reminder of her father, while tatreez, traditional Palestinian embroidery, brings memories of her mother. In order to bring together these two aspects of Palestinian cultural heritage, she utilized traditional embroidery techniques to decorate her black and white keffiyeh.
"My fondest memories are in making this keffiyeh, and wearing it with pride and joy for my beautiful people."
Yasser Arafat, the former chairman of the Palestinian Liberation Organization and later president of the Palestinian Authority, was seldom seen without his iconic black and white keffiyeh, which he wore on his head and draped over one shoulder.
How the keffiyeh became a symbol of resistance
The keffiyeh not only represents cultural identity, but it has also become intertwined with politics, much like other clothing items associated with cultural or religious heritage and nationalism.
In the 1930s, Ghnaim linked this political aspect to the Arab Revolt, a time when Palestinians, spanning various social classes and religions, donned the black and white keffiyeh as a symbol of unity in their quest to end British occupation and establish an independent country.
The keffiyeh experienced another wave of political significance in the 1960s, with both men and women wearing the scarf as a symbol. Yasser Arafat, the long-serving chairman of the Palestine Liberation Organization, was often seen wearing the black and white keffiyeh, further solidifying its status as a representation of the Palestinian national struggle.
Leila Khaled, a former militant who gained fame for her involvement in a 1969 plane hijacking and as a member of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine, which was a part of the Palestine Liberation Organization, was frequently seen wearing a keffiyeh draped around her head and neck during the 1960s and 1970s.
Leila Khaled wears a keffiyeh while visiting a Palestinian refugee camp in 1970.
Harry Koundakjian/AP
Growing up in Jordan in the 2000s as a second-generation Palestinian, Malhas shared with CNN that wearing the black and white keffiyeh could be interpreted as a lack of gratitude towards Jordan as a host country. The scarf was viewed as a symbol of defiance and pan-Arabism, making it a controversial choice due to its association with Palestinian identity. Malhas revealed that his family was apprehensive about him wearing it in Jordan, and he recounted being harassed in middle school by an older boy who told him, "If you don't like it here, just hop on a boat and leave."
Recent pro-Palestinian protests around the world have encouraged attendees to wear keffiyehs as a show of solidarity. CNN reported that a protester in France was fined 135 euros for wearing a keffiyeh, following the country's ban on pro-Palestinian protests.
However, wearing the keffiyeh may also make wearers vulnerable to anti-Palestinian sentiment or Islamophobia. For example, an attorney for students shot in Burlington believed that the students were targeted in part due to their keffiyehs. Additionally, a woman in New York was arrested and charged with a hate crime after allegedly attacking a man wearing a keffiyeh and accusing him of supporting Hamas. She has pleaded not guilty.
Can anyone wear a keffiyeh?
Keffiyehs, apart from being a symbol of national identity and resistance, have also become a part of the mainstream fashion world. For instance, in an episode of Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw is seen wearing a tank top with a design reminiscent of a keffiyeh. Additionally, both high-end and mainstream retailers have marketed keffiyehs as fashion accessories, detached from their historical significance.
Removing the keffiyeh from its traditional context can lead to controversy. Louis Vuitton faced criticism for cultural appropriation in 2021 when it released a $705 "keffieh stole," leading to social media backlash and the item being pulled from the website. The luxury brand declined to comment on the situation. Ghnaim advised those who wear the keffiyeh to educate themselves about its origins before wearing it.
She stated that over the last decade, the keffiyeh has been adopted by the fashion industry without acknowledging its Palestinian roots.
She emphasized the significance of understanding the meaning and history of the scarf for those who wear it, stressing that it is not a garment for everyone. The keffiyeh represents Palestinian solidarity, liberation, and freedom, and cultural appropriation contributes to the erasure of these cultural meanings.
On the other hand, Malhas emphasized the importance of non-Palestinians being cautious when wearing the keffiyeh in the traditional Bedouin style, but overall, wearing the garment can demonstrate significant solidarity.
