The Keffiyeh Unveiled: The Journey of a Scarf to Becoming a Palestinian National Symbol

Three Palestinian college students were shot in Vermont over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, two of them while wearing keffiyehs, in what their families have described as a hate-fueled crime.

While keffiyehs are worn throughout the Middle East, in recent years, they have become closely associated with Palestinian identity and resistance. During pro-Palestinian protests worldwide in response to the Israel-Hamas conflict, demonstrators have worn the scarves around their necks or used them as face coverings.

Originally used by shepherds and nomadic farmers, the keffiyeh has evolved into an iconic garment worn globally by anti-colonialist revolutionaries, activists, and others. At the same time, it continues to be worn in the traditional headwear style by elders and farmers," shared Majeed Malhas, a Palestinian-Canadian journalist and PhD candidate in anthropology at the University of Toronto.

Historians trace the history of the keffiyeh to nomadic Bedouin farmers in historic Palestine, who use the scarves as protection from the sun and sand.

Bettmann Archive/Getty Images

What is a keffiyeh?

The keffiyeh, also known as kufiyya or kaffiyeh in English, is a traditional scarf commonly worn in various regions of the Middle East. It is often seen in classic black and white or red and white, adorned with various patterns and finished with tassels along the edges.

According to Wafa Ghnaim, a specialist in Palestinian clothing history, keffiyehs, also known as hattahs or shamaghs, were primarily worn by nomadic Bedouin men in historic Palestine until the 1920s. She also noted that headdresses were worn by all people, including men and women, with different styles depending on whether they were villagers, townspeople, or Bedouins.

Bedouin men traditionally wear their keffiyeh folded diagonally and secured with a headrope, also known as an aqal. This not only signifies their identity but also provides practical protection from the harsh desert elements.

Malhas informed CNN that the patterns woven into each keffiyeh reflect various elements of the land of Palestine, such as the olive tree and fishnet.

The red and white keffiyeh is also associated with Jordanian nationalism, as British commanders utilized them as part of the uniform for the Desert Patrol, a Bedouin unit of the Arab Legion. Nonetheless, Palestinian activists and resistance fighters have worn keffiyehs in all colors, as stated by Malhas.

Scarves are now worn not just on the head but also around the neck and as shawls across the shoulders. Ghnaim, a research fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, often sees 19th-century keffiyehs made from materials such as cotton, silk, and fine wool, with white, black, green, and red threads incorporated into the design. She shared this with CNN, highlighting the historical significance of these scarves.

A Palestinian man walks through the Old City of the West Bank town of Hebron on July 24, 2017.

Hazem Bader/AFP/Getty Images

What the keffiyeh means to Palestinians

The keffiyeh is a significant connection to the culture of many Palestinians and people of Arab descent globally.

When traveling, Dalia Jacobs, a Palestinian brand strategist and creative director, wears a keffiyeh that is made in her hometown of Hebron. This helps her feel connected to her culture even when she's far from home, as she shared with CNN.

The keffiyeh gives her a feeling of "carrying a piece of home on my shoulders," she explained, stating that the scarf represents "resistance and resilience." A.S., a 26-year-old Palestinian-American residing in North Carolina, requested to be identified only by her initials for privacy reasons. She likened the keffiyeh to "a comforting security blanket" for her.

She told CNN that the keffiyeh represents her identity and preserves her family's history. Ghnaim also shared that the keffiyeh symbolizes her father, while tatreez, the traditional Palestinian embroidery, represents her mother. In an effort to integrate both aspects of Palestinian culture, she utilized traditional embroidery techniques to decorate her black and white keffiyeh.

Yasser Arafat, the former chairman of the Palestinian Liberation Organization and later the president of the Palestinian Authority, was seldom seen without his iconic black and white keffiyeh, which he wore on his head and draped over one shoulder.

How the keffiyeh became a symbol of resistance

The keffiyeh not only represents cultural identity but has also become imbued with political significance, much like other clothing items associated with cultural or religious heritage and nationalism.

Ghnaim attributed this political dimension to the 1930s, specifically during the Arab Revolt between 1936 and 1939. Palestinians from various social classes and religions wore the black and white keffiyeh to demonstrate unity and opposition to British occupation, as recounted by Ghnaim. The keffiyeh experienced a resurgence as a political symbol during the 1960s, being worn by both men and women. Yasser Arafat, the long-serving chairman of the Palestine Liberation Organization, frequently wore the black and white keffiyeh, further solidifying the scarf as a symbol of the Palestinian national struggle.

Leila Khaled, a former militant who gained fame for her involvement in a 1969 plane hijacking and a member of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine, which is part of the Palestine Liberation Organization, was frequently seen wearing a keffiyeh around her hair and neck during the 1960s and 1970s.

Leila Khaled wears a keffiyeh while visiting a Palestinian refugee camp in 1970.

Harry Koundakjian/AP

Malhas, a second-generation Palestinian who grew up in Jordan in the 2000s, explained to CNN that donning the black and white keffiyeh could be interpreted as a lack of gratitude towards Jordan as a host country. The scarf was considered a symbol of defiance and pan-Arabism, and its association with Palestinian identity could spur controversy. "My family would be uncomfortable with me wearing it," he stated, reflecting on the unease of wearing it in Jordan. He recounted being harassed in middle school for wearing the scarf, with an older boy telling him, "If you don't like it here, just hop on a boat and leave."

Organizers of recent pro-Palestinian protests worldwide have been calling on attendees to wear keffiyehs as a sign of support for the Palestinian people. However, wearing the keffiyeh may also make wearers vulnerable to anti-Palestinian sentiment or Islamophobia. For instance, a protester in France was fined 135 euros for wearing a keffiyeh after the country prohibited all pro-Palestinian protests. Additionally, an attorney for students shot in Burlington believed that they were targeted in part because they were wearing keffiyehs. In New York, a woman was arrested and charged with a hate crime after allegedly accusing a man wearing a keffiyeh of supporting Hamas and attacking him in early November.

Can anyone wear a keffiyeh?

Keffiyehs, in addition to being a symbol of national identity and resistance, have also found their way into the world of mainstream fashion. For example, in one episode of Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw is seen wearing a tank top that mimics the design of a keffiyeh. Furthermore, luxury and mainstream retailers have sold keffiyehs as fashion accessories, detached from their historical significance.

Wearing the keffiyeh, stripped from its original context, can be controversial. In 2021, Louis Vuitton faced allegations of cultural appropriation for its $705 "keffieh stole," leading to a social media backlash and the luxury brand pulling the item from its website. Louis Vuitton declined comment. CNN has reached out for comment. Ghnaim advised those wearing the keffiyeh to research its cultural significance beforehand.

On the other hand, Malhas suggested that non-Palestinians should be cautious when wearing the keffiyeh in the traditional Bedouin style. However, overall, non-Palestinians donning the garment can be seen as a powerful display of solidarity.