The Intersection of Food and Fashion: Unveiling the Era of Conspicuous Consumption

Food and fashion may appear to be an odd combination. High fashion has traditionally exalted thinness and discouraged eating, while promoting the consumption of luxury items. Nevertheless, in recent years, the two realms have been intersecting more frequently.

The realms of clothing design and cuisine share profound and intricate ties, as exemplified in the exhibition "Food & Fashion" at The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York City, along with its accompanying book bearing the same name.

Food-themed collections have become increasingly popular on runways in the past decade. Karl Lagerfeld made a splash with his Chanel-branded supermarket fashion show in 2014, while Jeremy Scott's debut for Moschino that same year featured playful nods to iconic food brands like McDonald's and Hershey's.

These food-inspired collections range from the personal, such as former Supreme creative director Tremaine Emory's label Denim Tears collaborating on a 2022 collection inspired by the foods he grew up eating, to the quirky, like Rachel Antonoff's "pasta puffer" coat which was dubbed the "It" coat of last winter by the New York Times. Food prints have undeniably become a prominent presence in fashion today.

Model Soo Joo Park browses the Chanel-branded produce on display at the fashion house's Fall-Winter 2014 runway show during Paris Fashion Week on March 4, 2014.

Off the runway, iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, and Ralph Lauren have taken a leap beyond fashion by venturing into the realm of gastronomy. These renowned labels have embraced the concept of merging fashion and food, offering shoppers the opportunity to indulge in their beloved brands on a literal level. In a similar vein, esteemed fashion designers Phillip Lim and Peter Som have branched out into the culinary world, showcasing their expertise through the publication of cookbooks and contributions to food magazines. Equally captivating, Jason Wu and Laura Kim, the co-creative director of Oscar de la Renta, captivate their Instagram followers with an array of delectable dishes that reflect their culinary prowess.

Ralph Lauren's vision remains unchanged as he returns to his roots. The act of consuming food and wearing apparel is a universal activity, which can either be considered mundane or celebrated as an art form - haute couture and haute cuisine. Both require meticulous craftsmanship, artistic expression, and appeal to the senses.

"There are numerous parallels between a designer and a chef," remarked Daniel Humm, proprietor of the renowned New York eatery Eleven Madison Park, while bestowing the Museum at FIT's Artistry of Fashion award to fashion designer Gabriela Hearst in September. "It revolves around the excellence of the ingredients, mastery of one's craft, and adapting to the constantly evolving seasons."

presents a captivating exhibit titled "Food & Fashion," showcasing various accessories that are sure to leave a lasting impression. Among the unique pieces is artist Joyce Francis' lemon-patterned Lucite handbag, skillfully crafted to stand out. Additionally, the exhibit proudly showcases a hat designed by the talented milliner Benjamin B. Green-Field, featuring a whimsical corn cob topper. Lastly, a remarkable chunky necklace resembling watermelon, bananas, and grapes adorns the exhibit's space, adding a touch of vibrant elegance.

Fifty years ago, Christian Dior, a renowned fashion house, released a cookbook to honor its founder's passion for decadent French cuisine. ("The ingredients we use in cooking are as refined as the materials used in couture," Dior supposedly stated.) Remarkably, both food and fashion represent essential aspects of French heritage that contribute significantly to the country's economy. Just consider LVMH, founded in 1987 with a focus on luxurious Champagne, cognac, and extravagant luggage, and now recognized as the largest luxury conglomerate globally.

Is there a more distant fine dining experience than this?

Food and fashion have a close affinity, with constant gravitation towards each other. An instance of this convergence is seen in the partnership between Smeg, a high-end kitchen appliance company, and Dolce & Gabbana in 2016. The collaboration resulted in the introduction of hand-painted refrigerators that exude the design duo's "la dolce vita" aesthetic. These appliances, adorned with vibrant Majolica tile patterns and bright citrus fruits, serve as a testament to the Italian craftsmanship and aesthetics shared by both brands.

In Milan, Italy, during the Salone Internazionale del Mobile at the Fiera di Rho on April 17, 2018, a lady stands beside a limited edition Dolce & Gabbana for Smeg refrigerator at the SMEG exhibition booth.

Image credit: Emanuele Cremaschi/Getty Images

The incorporation of Italian cuisine has become a natural expression of Dolce & Gabbanas cultural identity. Within their designs, the brand consistently features various Italian food items, ranging from cannolis to market vegetables. In 2017, they collaborated with Pastificio Di Martino to create branded packaging for their pasta. However, this association faced significant backlash in 2018 when Dolce & Gabbana released videos featuring a Chinese model struggling to eat cannoli, spaghetti, and pizza with chopsticks, resulting in accusations of racism. This misstep had a major impact on the brand's success in the highly profitable Chinese market, highlighting that while food can act as a gateway to other cultures, it is also a complex topic regarding cultural appropriation within the fashion industry.

Nevertheless, when executed properly, collaborations between food and fashion brands not only broaden the identity and consumer base of each company but also satisfy the demand for exclusive products in a retail culture that highly values limited-edition releases. Puma, for example, has partnered with the candy company Haribo, as well as America's oldest fast-food chain, White Castle, to create playful, unique, and Instagram-worthy sneakers.

Featured in the "Feeding the Eye" exhibition are several notable pieces. On the far left, there is a sculptural gown from Comme des Garçons' Spring-Summer 2018 collection. In the foreground center, we have a unique PB&J sandwich hat created by the talented Stephen Jones. Lastly, on the far right, we showcase the iconic "Souper Dress" designed by Campbell's Soup Company circa 1966.

The Museum at FIT

Pasta-inspired detailing on a necklace designed by Fendi circa-1980s.

The Museum at FIT

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A dinner plate-style purse from Chanel's Fall-Winter 2015 collection.

The Museum at FIT

The fashion link to fast food dates back to the 1970s, when McDonald's collaborated with renowned Seventh Avenue designer Stan Herman, former president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, to bring a touch of sophistication to their first standardized uniforms. Jumping ahead to 2021, designer Brendon Blackwood joined forces with McDonald's to create a special limited-edition handbag in tribute to rapper Saweetie's customized burger meal.

While collaborations can sometimes appear to be marketing tactics without any clear purpose, they are truly successful when stakeholders align their brand identities and values and effectively communicate with their customers. In 2017, the renowned designer Telfar Clemens seized an opportunity to promote his fashion philosophy through an invitation to design the uniforms for White Castle. This collaboration came after Clemens had hosted a fashion week afterparty at the restaurant's Times Square location. His fashion ethos challenges the traditional boundaries of "high" and "low" culture, as well as those related to gender and social classes.

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In a McDonalds inspired twinset, a model walks the runway at the Fall-Winter 2014 Moschino fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 20, 2014.

Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images

Clemens explained that the intention was to inspire people to desire the attire worn by White Castle employees and to eliminate any barriers that may exist. Along with the uniform release, Clemens also offered a limited-edition capsule collection for sale on his website.

One of the remarkable aspects of these partnerships is that they promote themselves. The co-branded products are unique enough to capture the attention of traditional media, while also taking on a life of their own as influencers and artists flood their Instagram feeds with tributes, replicas, and creative combinations.

Ultimately, the fusion of food and fashion captures the essence of identity, encompassing our literal and abstract "tastes." Food and fashion intertwine in various spheres of our existence, from defining cultural backgrounds to engaging with environmental concerns, labor inequalities, and societal perceptions of the body. Moreover, they become fundamental vehicles through which we express our individuality and collectively navigate the complexities of life.

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Courtesy Bloomsbury

Melissa Marra-Alvarez is the curator of education and research at The Museum at FIT.

Elizabeth Way serves as the associate curator of costume at The Museum at FIT. She is also a co-curator of the Food & Fashion exhibition, which is currently on display at the museum until November 26. Additionally, she collaborates as a co-editor for the accompanying book.