The Hidden Origins of Japan's Finest Desserts
Discover the fascinating origins of Japan's beloved wagashi sweets, rooted in the meeting of European and Japanese cultures Uncover the royal heritage behind these delectable treats and how they continue to shape the future of Japanese confectionery
CNN Travel series is sponsored by the destination it highlights, but CNN retains complete editorial control over the subject matter, reporting, and frequency of the articles and videos within the sponsorship, in accordance with our policy. Legend has it that a group of Portuguese monks were on their way to Macao when their ship encountered bad weather and ended up in Nagasaki, Japan, instead.
The chance meeting had a lasting impact on Japan, particularly its culinary landscape. The monks and subsequent Portuguese visitors introduced a beloved and influential ingredient to the country - sugar.
In the 16th century, Nagasaki, located on the island of Kyushu, emerged as the sole city where foreigners could conduct trade with the Japanese, leading to a significant affinity for sweets.
Kyushu is the birthplace of many of Japan's beloved wagashi (sweets), including the Portuguese-inspired pound cake known as castella. While the tradition of making pound cake originated in Portugal, the addition of mizuame syrup, made from glutinous rice, gives it a uniquely Japanese twist.
Traditional Japanese-style castella.
At Fukusaya, the best place to get some of their renowned cakes for yourself. The well-known cake shop chain first opened in Nagasaki in 1624 and now has its main branch in the Akasaka neighborhood of Fukuoka, the largest city on the island of Kyushu. The location is conveniently close to where tourists arrive in the city from Hakata Station, the western terminus of the Shinkansen high-speed train line.
The castella is cut into bite-sized cubes, wrapped in vibrant packaging, and then arranged into gift boxes. While there are seasonal variations like sakura (cherry blossom) in the spring and chocolate around Christmas, the classic castella remains the top seller, as per an employee at Akasaka.
Castella, also known as kasutera in Japan, is also featured in another well-loved Japanese dessert, dorayaki. In this variation, the castella cake is thinner and transformed into a pancake with a sweet red bean paste filling.
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Europe meets Japan, Japan meets Europe
Another European sweet that got the Japanese treatment is macarons.
Local version, sometimes anglicized as makaron, is crafted with peanut flour in lieu of almond flour and often features classic Japanese tastes such as green tea or red bean.
"Japanese people seem to have a strong affinity for European pastries, particularly those of French origin," states Michele Abbatemarco, head pastry chef at the Four Seasons in Tokyo's Otemachi district.
Both Japan and Europe have seen a significant evolution in pastry-making over the last 50 years. Japanese pastries have inspired a number of patisseries in Europe and around the globe, creating a reciprocal appreciation for each other's culinary creations.
Kitajima, a renowned Kyushu brand known for its fusion of European and Japanese confections, has its main store located in Saga City. Don't miss the chance to try their Portuguese-influenced marubolo cookies infused with honey, French-style madeleines featuring walnuts for added texture, and their signature Margaret cakes made from almond flour, crafted to resemble a beautiful flower.
A bowl of colorful konpeito candies.
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A royal heritage
Japan's konpeito candy is among the country's most beloved and iconic sweets. These tiny, brightly colored sugar confections resemble crystalline stars or flowers and are easily recognizable. The name "konpeito" is derived from the Portuguese word "confeito," a type of sugar candy brought to Japan by sugar merchants. Interestingly, the small size of konpeito candies was not just for aesthetic appeal. In fact, sugar was so scarce and costly that even a small sweet treat was considered a luxury.
Costly ingredients are often associated with wealthy and influential individuals. In Japan, the most prestigious clan is the Imperial Family, led by the Emperor and Empress.
It is customary for guests of the Imperial family, including heads of state and other royalty, to receive sterling silver bonbonnieres (French for "candy box") as welcome gifts when attending significant events such as weddings or the "feast ceremony" to crown a new emperor.
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How the past becomes the future
These days, though, some chefs in Japan are trying to resurrect the local products that were used before the importation of sugar.
Abbatemarco is a standout among them. Throughout the decade he has spent in Japan, he has successfully procured some of the rare honeys that were traditionally used to sweeten dishes prior to the introduction of sugar.
At Est, the Four Seasons Michelin-starred French restaurant, Abbatemarco and his team present petits fours infused with buckwheat honey, soba honey, wasanbon (a delicate white sugar), and other elusive local treats.
He sees it as a way to pay tribute to the small producers in Japan, while also introducing their flavors to the hotel's guests. Nowadays, most foreign travelers come to Japan by plane rather than by ship, but many of them still have a fondness for sweets.
