The Controversial Phenomenon of Fast Fashion

To stay updated with the ever-changing trends from runway shows, influencers, and social media, fashion enthusiasts and dedicated shoppers often opt for the most convenient and budget-friendly options available. This often means turning to "fast fashion" selections from e-tailers or big box stores, offering a wide array of affordable and trendy clothing items.

Why is fast fashion so popular?

However, opting for cheap chic may appear attractive, but the fast fashion industry produces clothing at an overwhelming scale that exceeds the capacity of most consumers to keep up with. Additionally, the materials used in fast fashion items may only last for as few as seven to 10 wears, as reported by the non-profit environmental data platform Earth.org.

The fast fashion business model prioritizes producing large quantities of clothing rapidly to keep up with current trends, according to Dr. Preeti Arya, an assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. This term gained popularity in a 1989 New York Times article, which described Zara's goal of getting a design from concept to consumer in just 15 days during the brand's first opening in the United States.

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Fast fashion designs are often referred to as "dupes" on social media, and are essentially trendy garments inspired by or copied from high-end celebrity looks and runway shows in major fashion cities like New York and Paris. The aim of brands and manufacturers is to make these designs available to consumers while they are still in fashion, and at affordable prices.

Today, the fast fashion industry encompasses both major brick-and-mortar retailers with an online presence such as Zara and H&M, as well as e-tail only brands like Shein from Singapore, Temu from China, Boohoo, ASOS, PrettyLittleThing from the UK, and Fashion Nova from the US.

Vox has reported that online retailers can push out hundreds (if not thousands) of designs in small batches, and adjust the production rates according to consumer response, which enables them to reduce waste and overproduction. This quick production schedule, as little as three days from design to ready-to-buy for Shein, has been touted as a key factor in this strategy.

A worker in Guangzhou, China is shown making clothes at a garment factory that supplies Shein on July 18, 2022. It is reported that Shein has a production rate of as little as three days from start to finish. (Jade Gao/AFP/Getty Images)

What is fast fashions impact on the world?

According to a March 2023 report by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the fashion industry contributes to 10% of annual global carbon emissions. The report also reveals that the production of garments has doubled since 2000, with consumers purchasing an estimated 60% more clothes today but only wearing them for half as long.

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Fast fashion pieces are frequently manufactured with materials such as polyester, a synthetic and cost-effective fiber derived from nonrenewable fossil fuel, according to a report from the Changing Markets Foundation. Greenpeace's 2016 report indicates that polyester can take up to 200 years to decompose.

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The fast fashion industry not only depends on inexpensive materials but also heavily relies on cheap labor. With about 75 million factory workers worldwide, only 2% of them earn a living wage, as reported by George Washington University. Apparel companies often outsource manufacturing to countries like India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, where workers are paid low wages, work in hazardous conditions, and in some cases, children are exploited, according to Humanium, an international organization focused on children's rights.

According to Beth Osnes, a professor at the University of Colorado who specializes in environmental studies and the impact of fast fashion on climate change, the inexpensive end products of fast fashion have a high cost for both the environment and the workers involved in their production. Fast fashion prioritizes speed in design, manufacturing, marketing, and retailing, leaving little time to consider ethical considerations or workers' rights. Osnes also points out that fossil fuel not only powers the machinery used to create these garments but is also the material used to make the fashion items themselves.

Asian rivers are being polluted and turning black, and the fashion industry is partly responsible for it, according to Aja Barber, a writer and stylist focused on sustainability and ethics. "The fashion industry's rapid production is causing harm to both people and the environment," she said. "The planet is in crisis, and the fashion industry is contributing to it."

Is sustainable fashion, a viable alternative?

The term sustainable fashion refers to clothing that is intentionally designed and produced with environmental friendliness in mind, as stated by Good on You, a prominent source for assessing fashion brand sustainability. This encompasses clothing that utilizes natural fibers like cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and silk, which are known for their durability and longevity, as explained by Preeti Arya of the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Dr. Preeti Arya suggests that one affordable way to engage in sustainable fashion is by shopping for clothing items with a greater proportion of natural fibers, like cotton, hemp, linen, wool, and silk.

In its 2023 report, UNEP identifies shifting consumption patterns, investment in shared infrastructure, and enhancements in environmental and social practices as key priorities for the fashion industry to make their business models more sustainable. This includes informing consumers of their environmental impact and prioritizing recyclability and locally-sourced materials within their designs.

Consumers can take steps to reduce their carbon footprint by choosing garments with less than 20% polyester and opting for items made from natural fibers, which can last for up to three generations. Thrift store shopping is also a good way to find natural fiber clothing.