Advocating for Change: The Necessity of Tariffs on Leather and Polluting Materials
Stella McCartney, renowned for her sustainable fashion, urges for updated tariffs on leather and environmentally harmful materials Feeling isolated in her mission to innovate alternative materials, she calls for a change in laws to promote a more eco-friendly fashion industry
Watch the video below to see highlights from Becky Anderson's interview with Stella McCartney on "Connect the World with Becky Anderson." In the interview, McCartney calls on world leaders to consider new tariffs on leather goods and fashion items made from environmentally harmful materials.
In an interview with CNN's Becky Anderson at the UN Climate Change Conference (COP28) in the United Arab Emirates this week, the fashion designer expressed frustration at the current tax rates for non-leather bags or shoes entering the US market. She stated that the tax can be as much as "up to 30% more" compared to products with even a small amount of animal leather. McCartney called for a change in the law, describing the current tariff structures as "crazy."
"You need to be penalized if youre cutting down the rainforests and using cancerous toxins to tan leather and human welfare is at risk."
Stella McCartney conversing with King Charles III, British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak, and US Special Presidential Envoy for Climate John Kerry at a reception in Buckingham Palace prior to the previous year's UN climate change summit. (Photo credit: Jonathan Brady/PA Wire/AP)
McCartney has been a vocal supporter of sustainable and vegan fashion for years. She expressed her sense of isolation in her efforts to create new alternative materials, stating, "The reality is I'm still the only one working this way."
At COP28, the designer revealed a new partnership with Mango Materials. The company utilizes waste methane gas to fuel bacteria that generate a biopolymer, which can be used for products such as sunglasses frames.
"These unscrupulous companies are receiving tax breaks and incentives," McCartney stated, addressing Mango Materials CEO Molly Morse, who was also present during the CNN interview. The civil engineer had mentioned that her startup was considering using excess methane from oil and gas companies to produce its biomaterial.
"Your business deserves to receive all the benefits for making them clean," McCartney added.
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Watch: Stella McCartney in conversation with CNN's Becky Anderson at COP28.
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- Source:
CNN
In a comprehensive interview, the designer urged delegates at COP28 to acknowledge that the fashion industry is one of the most detrimental industries to the world.
The environmental impact of the fashion industry is challenging to measure, but the United Nations Environment Program stated that fast fashion contributes to approximately 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions due to its extensive supply chains and energy-intensive production. In addition, animal rights group PETA, which is currently focusing on the wool, leather, and down trades, alleges that over 1.4 billion animals, including cows, sheep, and goats, are slaughtered each year for their skin.
McCartney expressed the need for policy change, reevaluation of laws, and the implementation of limitations so that the industry can work together.
Faux leather faux pas
While some animal rights advocates push for leather substitutes, many come with their own environmental costs.
Vegan leather, while animal-free and with a lower environmental impact than animal leather, is typically made from PVC, PU, or a combination of these plastics and natural materials. However, its manufacture often involves the use of hazardous chemicals and fossil fuels, and the materials can take centuries to break down. Although new alternatives made from biodegradable materials like fungi or bacterial cellulose from industrial fruit waste are emerging, they are not yet widely available on the market.
A model walks the runway for Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week.
McCartney's label has chosen to transition away from fossil fuel-based synthetics and instead use Mylo, a material made from mycelium, to create a line of handbags called The Frayme Mylo. Unfortunately, the company responsible for Mylo, Bolt Threads, has ceased operations due to challenges in scaling up production.
"I have spent my entire life as a fashion designer, and I am less concerned with the next trend or color for 2024 and 2025," McCartney explained to CNN. "What I'm really interested in is discovering the next innovative material or solution that we can offer to the world in order to create a better planet."
Italian designers have started using fruit peel to create furniture.
McCartney's label has pledged to reach net-zero carbon emissions by 2040, and she is determined to focus on creating materials from readily available by-products that are not specifically grown for the fashion industry.
During COP28, her delegation presented over 15 projects that are leading the way in biomaterials and plant-based substitutes for plastic, leather, fur, and traditional fibers. This included an innovative leather alternative made from grapes in collaboration with Champagne brand Veuve Clicquot, as well as clothing made from biologically recycled polyester that can be recycled multiple times.
She also announced that she will be working with PETA to promote alternative materials for leather, furs and feathers.
