Revolutionizing Fashion: The Extraordinary Legacy of a Visionary Female Photographer

When Eve Arnold joined Magnum in 1951, she became the agency's first female photographer. At the time, Magnum was preparing to open a New York office, and Eve seized the opportunity, leveraging her gender to secure a position as their token American woman stringer. By 1957, she had earned a full membership, making her one of only two women in Magnum internationally.

Now, seventy years later, a new exhibition explores Eve Arnold's extensive archive, highlighting a collection of her most significant work. Nicola Jones, the founder and director of the Newlands House Gallery in Britain, explained in an interview with CNN that the exhibition aims to showcase not only diverse subject matters but also Eve's unique perspective.

Two young Black models check their makeup backstage, shot by Arnold, in Harlem, 1950.

The exhibition showcases Eve Arnold's most renowned photographs, as well as a collection of her lesser-known yet captivating works. These include iconic shots of Marilyn Monroe during the filming of "The Misfits," Malcolm X delivering a speech in Washington, Black fashion shows in Harlem, and a documentary capture of a natal ward in Long Island.

The winner of the Prix Pictet photography contest skillfully portrays the contrasting aspects of life in rural Rajasthan, combining both the beauty and challenges within her photographs. According to Jones, her images consistently exude a non-judgmental and empathetic perspective. What's remarkable is the incredible range of her work, encompassing diverse subjects and her ability to respectfully navigate societal taboos while gaining unparalleled access.

Born in Philadelphia to Ukrainian Jewish immigrant parents, Eve relocated to New York at the age of 31. It was there that she got married before eventually settling in the United Kingdom during the 1960s. Eve resided in the UK until her passing in 2012, having reached the age of 99. During her time in New York, she enrolled in a photography class at the New School for Social Research, which was taught by Alexey Brodovitch, the renowned art director of Harpers Bazaar.

Model Charlotte Stribling aka 'Fabulous' waits backstage for the entrance cue to model clothes designed and made in the Harlem community in 1950.

Eve Arnold/Courtesy Newlands House Gallery

Eve, assigned to document the world of fashion, dedicated a year to capturing the essence of weekly catwalk shows in Harlem. These shows, often overlooked by the mainstream fashion industry, showcased Black models flaunting their unique homemade outfits before a predominantly Black audience. Jones praised, "The photos she took were extraordinary and disruptive. She dared to embark on a distinct path during a period when racial segregation remained prevalent in America."

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"The issues she captured through her photographs hold the same, if not greater, significance in today's world," said Michael Arnold, the photographer's grandson, during an interview with CNN. "Remaining neutral was essential to her as she viewed her role purely as that of a reporter. She possessed a deep fascination for the events unfolding around her and aimed to shed light on them. Despite her apolitical stance, her subjects revealed her personal interests."

Displayed elsewhere is a solitary image from a series created to complement an article in The Sunday Times Magazine titled "Lesbian wedding celebration." This image exemplifies the diversity in Eve's photography. "Interestingly, the original piece was titled Women Without Men, as if such a concept was groundbreaking. However, in 1965, it was considered worthy of a reportage story," explained Michael. "When Eve began her photography career, the majority of women were confined to the role of housewives. Her ability to venture out and travel the world was truly innovative."

Marilyn Monroe shot by Arnold during the filming of "The Misfits," 1960 in Reno, Nevada.

Eve Arnold, courtesy of Newlands House Gallery, openly acknowledged the anomaly and perceived eccentricity of being a woman in "The Unretouched Woman." In her writings, she noted that her male colleagues were not described in quotation marks nor referred to as "career men" or "men photographers," highlighting the double standard that existed. While she never portrayed herself as a feminist, she astutely recognized and commented on the gender disparities.

Her gender, though not influencing her success as a photographer, inevitably shaped her legacy in twentieth-century photography. Michael noted that she frequently downplayed this aspect, finding it peculiar. He recalled that she may not have fully recognized the impact she had on the history of photography.

Despite Eve expressing her desire not to be solely known for her Marilyn Monroe work, these images serve as a powerful testament to her broader artistic practice and her ability to form genuine connections with her subjects. Jones remarked that these widely recognized shots narrate the story of a woman who gained the trust of someone who was famously vulnerable and occasionally delicate, allowing Eve to capture her in ways that others were not permitted to do so.

Eve Arnold's ability to produce remarkable work ultimately stemmed from her inquisitive nature. According to Michael, it was her genuine and insatiable curiosity that fueled her drive. She possessed a desire to understand what motivated individuals, whether they were part of the royal family or a working-class household. This compassion and curiosity were major factors that distinguished her. They allowed her photography to resonate with people from all walks of life and remain relevant throughout the years.

The exhibition "Eve Arnold: To Know About Women" can be found at the Newlands House Gallery in Petworth, UK, until January 7, 2024.