Highly Acclaimed Restaurant Shuts Down Due to Exorbitant Prices
Another Michelin-starred restaurant, Deanes EIPIC in Belfast, shuts down due to rising costs, signaling a decline in the era of fine dining The closure adds to a growing list of other prestigious restaurants facing similar challenges
After 26 years of operation, a prestigious restaurant in Belfast, Northern Ireland, with a Michelin star is shutting down. The closure is primarily attributed to the increasingly high costs that are burdening both the patrons and the restaurant management. Deanes EIPIC, the celebrated flagship fine dining establishment founded by renowned Northern Irish chef Michael Deane in the 1990s, earned its inaugural Michelin star just a year after its establishment as Deanes in 1997.
However, the company recently revealed that Deanes EIPIC will cease operations by the end of 2023 as a result of rising customer price sensitivity and the adverse effects of Covid, Brexit, and the cost-of-living crisis. A relaunch is in the works, with a renewed emphasis on offering excellent value for money. Alex Greene, the renowned head chef and finalist on the popular UK TV show "Great British Menu," expresses his belief that this decision reflects a broader trend within the hospitality sector.
The cost has spiralled out of control
According to him, EIPIC wasn't a restaurant on the verge of closure, but customers who enter the establishment have certain expectations. However, fulfilling those expectations has become twice as expensive since the lockdown, resulting in costs that have gone out of hand. Doubling the price is not a viable solution.
The tasting menus at EIPIC cost £100 each (approximately $123), making them relatively affordable compared to higher-priced options. However, Belfast's smaller size means it doesn't attract as many wealthy diners as larger cities like London or Paris.
EIPIC adheres to the traditional fine-dining concept that has earned numerous Michelin stars across Europe and beyond. Nevertheless, Greene suggests that the more extravagant style of dining, with its white linen tablecloths and formal service, is slowly fading away.
Modern Michelin-caliber restaurants are characterized by a more minimalistic approach, according to the chef. Although they still maintain their passion, dedication, and culinary excellence, the ambiance is no longer defined by white linen tablecloths or a high level of service. Instead, the focus is on delivering a more cost-effective experience to the customers. Although there is still a demand for traditional fine dining, it is gradually declining.
In the midst of battling the toxic atmosphere prevalent in professional kitchens, I could feel my hands pulsating with pain and discomfort. This renowned chef, who has been awarded Michelin stars, is determined to challenge and change the negative culture that often plagues the culinary industry.
Other Michelin-starred closures
The UK industry is also experiencing challenges related to labor shortages. According to Greene, it is difficult to find employees who possess the required dedication, knowledge, and other necessary qualities. Additionally, the process of acquiring such staff members is both challenging and costly.
Greene and Deanes' EIPIC general manager, Bronagh McCormick, are relocating from the city to establish a new culinary and business venture in the Mourne countryside, located south of Belfast. While quality food and beverages were once scarce in rural Northern Ireland, the post-Covid era has witnessed a boom in this region, mirroring similar trends in other rural areas across the UK.
"Belfast serves as a prime example," asserts Greene. "This year, we have observed numerous rate increases, escalating property insurance costs, and an overall rise in prices within the city." However, the Mourne region, renowned for its picturesque mountains and coastal beauty, has recently acquired the prestigious title of being a UNESCO Global Geopark. Additionally, next year, the seaside resort town of Newcastle will host the esteemed Irish Open golf tournament. Greene affirms, "People are now willing to journey from the city or any location for exceptional cuisine and accommodations. Furthermore, the costs associated with operating in the countryside are significantly lower compared to urban settings."
Deanes EIPIC is the most recent addition to the list of high-profile restaurants shuttering their doors. Earlier this year, Noma, renowned worldwide, made headlines when it declared its closure due to the unsustainable nature of the fine dining industry, as owner René Redzepi shared with the New York Times. In August, Michel Roux Jr., a celebrated English-French chef, also announced the impending closure of his Michelin two-starred London restaurant, Le Gavroche, as he aims to prioritize a healthier work-life balance.
