Exploring Patmos: The Greek Isle Where Prophecy Unfolded

Editor’s Note: This article was first published in 2018, but has been updated in March 2024 to honor its author, John Malathronas, who passed away in February. Malathronas, a well-known writer for CNN Travel and a Greece expert, had authored numerous respected guides on his home country.

Patmos, an island located in the eastern Aegean sea under clear blue skies, may seem like a typical Greek vacation spot, but it's anything but.

It’s where the end of the world began.

Not that you’d guess that, strolling down the winding path in the center of the island, where a sleepy priest tends a souvenir stall.

This is where St. John is believed to have received visions that inspired him to write the Book of Revelation, which is found at the end of the New Testament. The book contains some of the Bible's most ominous descriptions.

The Greek Orthodox chapel of St. Anne, built in the early 17th century, surrounds the cave where John supposedly had these apocalyptic visions of the end times.

Discover the hidden gem known as the Cave of the Apocalypse with its sacred grotto and chapel. As you follow the corridors, you'll find the chapel at the end, with the north side sealed by a rocky alcove.

In the chapel, there is a silver miter standing above a fenced-off cleft. It is believed that this is where the biblical figure rested his head. Surrounding the crack are silver brackets, marking the spot where he placed his hands to stand up.

The chapel's warden explains, "This is where Prochorus the scribe recorded John's words as the saint experienced a vision." He gestures towards an open Bible placed on the rock, serving as a natural pedestal for the book.

He points to a fissure on the rock above, where God's voice came through and spoke to the saint.

The fissure ends in a triple point, symbolizing Christianity's holy trinity - the father, son, and holy ghost.

‘Sacred island’

The island is dominated by the fortress-like Monastery of St. John.

The island is dominated by the fortress-like Monastery of St. John.

John Malathronas

Today, two monks continue to reside in cells above the cave, but the primary hub of religious activity in Patmos is the monastery of St. John. This monastery, often referred to as the “sacred island,” stands as a grand fortress overlooking the entire island.

Founded in 1088 by St. Christodoulos, a Greek monk, the monastery still retains original structures from the 11th century. Visitors can explore parts of the ancient fortifications, the kitchen, various cells, the cistern, and, most notably, the church of St. John, adorned with exquisite frescoes.

While the church is impressive, the monastery’s museum and library are several notches more formidable.

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The original "golden bull" by Byzantine Emperor Alexios I Komnenos holds a special place in the collection. This ancient seal bestowed the entire island to Christodoulos, with imperial monograms scattered throughout the scroll similar to how we sign contract pages today.

In addition, there is a firman, which is a type of edict, issued by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in 1454. This document confirms the monastery's independence and appoints a monk as a tax collector.

The library on Patmos is considered one of the most significant in Greece, second only to the Greek Orthodox center of Mount Athos. It houses 1,200 manuscripts made of parchment, vellum, or scrolls, including pages from Mark's gospel dating back to the 6th century.

While the cave and monastery are the main draws on Patmos, they are not the only reasons why visitors come to the island, as mentioned by Panagos Evgenikos, the leader of the island's council.

During a visit in 2018, Evgenikos mentioned that a few years back, they attended a European conference on religious tourism. They were in the company of popular destinations like Santiago de Compostela in Spain and Lourdes in France. The consensus reached was that simply being a religious site is not sufficient to draw tourists; there needs to be an additional factor.

For Patmos, Evgenikos highlighted that what sets it apart are its stunning beaches and the beauty of Chora, the island's capital.

Rainbow beach

Lambi beach is covered with multi-colored pebbles.

Lambi beach is covered with multi-colored pebbles.

John Malathronas

A swim at Lambi in the north of Patmos confirmed Evgenikos’ statement. The beach is covered in small, colorful pebbles in shades of butterscotch orange, sweet potato red, and egg yolk yellow, creating a stunning overall appearance.

Petra is a sandy spit of land connected to the free-standing rock of Kallikatsou. Legend has it that the rock is actually formed by a young girl who was cursed by her mother. The girl swam to the rock right after Holy Communion, even though she was told not to do so.

Another wonderful spot to visit is the charming fishing village of Grikos, which overlooks the small island of Tragonissi. This island serves as a natural windbreaker for the safe and sandy beach in the area.

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Patmos, situated in the north of Greece's Dodecanese island group, may not have an airport and can be a bit challenging to get to. However, this secluded island is a favorite among VIPs from around the globe for its peaceful atmosphere. Over the years, celebrities like the Aga Khan, David Bowie, and Giorgio Armani have been known to frequent this hidden gem.

Several individuals have chosen to make Patmos their permanent residence and contribute to the island's development.

Nicholas Negroponte, a member of MIT's Media Lab, set up a free island-wide Wi-Fi network for all residents to enjoy internet access.

Charles Pictet, a financier who also loves Patmos, took the initiative to restore three windmills on a hill facing the monastery. One of these windmills is now fully operational and is used to produce wholemeal flour.

Meanwhile, Swiss politician Josef Zisyadis had bigger plans in mind. Together with French winemaker Dorian Amar, he started cultivating vines on a 20-acre piece of land near Petra beach.

In 2018, Amar was excited to introduce a white Assyrtiko and a red Mavrothiriko wine with the playful name "Domaine de l'Apocalypse."

He mentioned that while the soil was fertile and there was water in the ground, the terroir was not ideal for growing vines. Amar explained that there was plenty of wind and sun, but unfortunately, there was a lack of shade for the vines.

I've been planting trees to lower the temperature and improve production. An oak here, a few carob trees there. Give me a few years and I'll have turned this patch into a paradise.

Many people believe the island is already a paradise due to its relative inaccessibility. However, is the construction of an airport being considered?

No nudity

Petra beach lies beyond some of the islands' vineyards.

Petra beach lies beyond some of the islands' vineyards.

John Malathronas

Christos Patakos, the manager of the only five-star hotel on the island, Patmos Aktis, expressed his doubts in 2018. When asked about the possibility of mass tourism on Patmos, he shook his head and said, "I don't think it'll ever happen." According to him, there is a prevailing sentiment among the island's regular visitors and homeowners that Patmos should be safeguarded from mass tourism. It is these individuals who are opposed to the idea.

The monastery is a significant attraction on the island, but it doesn't control everything. It plays a big role, but it doesn't interfere with daily life as long as there is mutual respect. For example, activities like nudism are not allowed, and bars in Chora close at 3 a.m.

Father Bartholomew, a friendly and talkative monk, happily agreed.

"That's when we go to Matins," he said. "Tourists sometimes forget that this is a real monastery and we have duties to attend to."

Bartholomew also conceded that the monastery would welcome an airport on island.

“It would only marginally increase tourism and be beneficial for the locals in medical emergencies.

Bartholomew mentioned that the monastery has consistently supported the municipality and tourist authorities in their development plans. He also recalled a situation where an army base wanted to conduct artillery exercises during the summer, but they were denied permission by the monastery.

Our schedule for the day is structured around our religious services. We start our day at 3 a.m. with Matins, followed by Mass at 6 a.m. This allows us to open our doors at 8 a.m. We close at 1:30 p.m. in order to prepare for Vespers at 3 p.m.

Some shops on the island may still be closed by mid-June, but our operation is the only one you can count on to be open year-round.

Everything is in perfect balance and harmony here; everyone knows their place.

Patakos nodded in agreement, mentioning that the island has a lot of fans who visit to relax and soak up its energy. The vibes are palpable as soon as you step foot on the island.

He added that while the main attraction is beach tourism, they are fortunate to also have remarkable sights such as the monastery and the cave.

“Patmos is a tiny Byzantium, like Mount Athos but more advanced – they don’t call it ‘the Jerusalem of the Aegean’ without reason.”

Getting there

The easiest way to go to Patmos is via ferry (two to three hours) from Kos, which has an international airport.

Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa, Patmos 855 00; +30 2247 032800

Monastery of St. John the Theologian, Patmos 855 00; +30 2247 031223

Editor's P/S:

This article is a well-written and informative piece that provides a comprehensive overview of the Greek island of Patmos. It effectively blends history, religion, and tourism, offering a balanced perspective on the island's unique character. The author's personal experiences and insights enhance the narrative, making it both engaging and informative.

The article highlights the island's significance as a religious destination, centered around the Cave of the Apocalypse and the Monastery of St. John. It explores the historical and spiritual importance of the island, while also acknowledging the impact of tourism on its development. The mention of celebrities and influential figures who have visited Patmos adds a touch of glamour and exclusivity to the island's appeal. Overall, the article paints a vivid picture of Patmos as a captivating destination that offers a harmonious blend of spirituality, history, and natural beauty.