Defying Fashion Norms: Telfar Clemens Redefines Style from White Castle Uniforms to the Bushwick Birkin
Telfar Clemens, the creative force behind the iconic Shopping Bag handbags, is rewriting fashion rules With their boxy shape, vibrant colors, and the signature TC logo, these sought-after accessories are loved by fashion enthusiasts Telfar's innovative and inclusive approach, coupled with a radical pricing model, has made the brand a game-changer in the industry
Telfar's "Shopping Bag" handbags are known for their boxy, colorful design and the brand's signature "TC" logo. They have become coveted accessories for the fashion-forward, worn by celebrities like Beyoncé, model Bella Hadid, and US Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez. The bags, which are modeled after the shape of a Bloomingdales shopping bag, even made an appearance on the ABC sitcom "Abbott Elementary."
The bag is a common sight among Brooklyn creatives and office workers, earning the nickname "Bushwick Birkin" due to its appeal to a wide demographic. In contrast to the exclusive Hermès Birkin handbags, the Telfar Shopping Bag is much more affordable, with even the most expensive ones costing less than $300. Telfar Clemens, founder of the brand, has made it his mission to create designs that are accessible to everyone, including those who typically can't afford designer brands. This has been reflected in the lower prices and unisex clothing options offered by the brand.
Clemens expressed to Gay Times in a 2018 interview, "Unity holds great significance for me. My close friends and chosen family members come from diverse backgrounds and sexual orientations."
However, this approach has not been without its challenges. In the realm of luxury fashion, exclusivity is frequently a key factor in driving consumer demand and brand value, often achieved through high prices or limited access.
Clemens, on the other hand, has built his career by questioning traditional beliefs in the fashion industry. He has collaborated with well-known brands such as Ugg, for instance. In September, Telfar introduced TelfarTV, a live 24-hour streaming platform.
Telfar Clemens at the CFDA x Vogue Fashion Fund 'Americans in Paris' event, Paris Fashion Week, France in March 2018.
Hagop Kalaidjian/BFA/Shutterstock
This year, he has gone a step beyond by allowing customers to determine the price of his products. This approach, his interpretation of "dynamic pricing," results in lower prices for items in higher demand.
In an industry traditionally marked by exclusivity, Telfar has gained recognition by embracing inclusivity. As the brand has achieved new levels of success, Clemens has made efforts to include the customers who have supported him along the way.
According to Lois Sakany, co-founder of the streetwear and culture blog Snobette, Clemens is highly skilled in recognizing and engaging with customers and is unapologetic about it.
Despite being asked for an interview by CNN for this piece, Clemens declined to participate.
Maker of the Bushwick Birkin
"This Telfar bag imported. Birkins? Them s**ts in storage," Beyoncé sang in the final song on last years "Renaissance" album.
The Telfar bag originated from New York City, where Clemens was born to Liberian parents in Queens in 1985. When he was young, his family moved to Liberia and then returned to the United States during the second Liberian civil war in the late 1990s.
Now 38, Clemens started Telfar in 2005 while studying at Pace University in New York. Telfar's clothing has always been unisex, which was innovative at the time. As a Black, queer designer creating genderless clothing in the early 2000s, Clemens was largely overlooked by the fashion industry for years.
"For a really long time, I just didnt get a review," Clemens said on The Breakfast Club radio show in 2022. "It took 10 years to really get fashion attention."
The Telfar Presentation at February 2017 New York Fashion Week ended with models showcasing the brand's renowned unisex clothing styles on the runway.
Since then, however, Clemens has garnered a multitude of fashion awards, including the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2017. That same year he styled Solange Knowles, Beyoncé's sister, for a performance at the Guggenheim Museum; in 2020, he created Liberia's Olympic uniforms. Last year, Telfar concluded New York Fashion Week—a major honor.
Telfar Clemens accepts the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Gala, New York, USA, November 6, 2017.
David X Prutting/BFA/Shutterstock
Telfar's breakthrough product was the Shopping Bag, which was first launched in 2014.
Dubbed the "Bushwick Birkin," this vegan leather tote has consistently made appearances on Oprah's list of favorite things. Available in three sizes and a wide range of colors, it is perfect for everyday use as a work bag or for nights out.
The Covid-19 pandemic caused the Shopping Bag to skyrocket in popularity, and new bag releases announced online consistently sold out within minutes.
"Even my next-door neighbor has one," noted Adrienne Jones, a fashion design professor at Pratt Institute, in an interview with CNN. "You can't be on the planet and not know about [Telfar]."
Clemens democratized access to the bags, reaching a wider audience. In 2020, the brand introduced the Telfar Bag Security Program, a 24-hour event allowing customers to pre-order an unlimited number of bags in any size and color. This departure from Telfar's usual limited releases and the traditional drop model of other fashion brands made the program stand out. While the program has made periodic returns over the years, the brand announced that its June Bag Security Program would be the last.
Samia Laaboudi dons a stylish beige trench coat and carries both a vibrant neon orange handbag and a sophisticated burgundy handbag from Telfar at New York Fashion Week on September 14, 2022 in New York City. (Image credit: Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
The previous year, Chanel informed Reuters that they had implemented restrictions on the purchase of quilted Classic Flap handbags and were contemplating further limits on luxury goods in specific markets. Analysts suggested this was a move to confront the reseller market and maintain the brand's exclusivity.
"We have the freedom to make our own decisions as a company. That's exactly what we're doing by discontinuing the Bag Security Program," Clemens stated, as widely reported at the time.
Telfar introduced the "Gifted" program this holiday season, allowing customers who purchased a handbag from November 17 to 20 to receive a gift code to give a Shopping Bag to someone else. To participate, customers simply had to submit a brief video explaining the recipient of the bag.
According to Laticha Brown, fashion business management chair at the Fashion Institute of Technology, such initiatives demonstrate that Telfar remains connected to the community that has contributed to the brand's success, even after gaining recognition from celebrities like Beyoncé.
For everyone
During New York Fashion Week in 2015, Telfar formed an unexpected partnership with fast-food chain White Castle. This collaboration led to Telfar designing uniforms for White Castle employees and creating a special collection to mark the chain's 100th anniversary, which was made available to the public. The profits from this collection were then donated to the Robert F. Kennedy Human Rights Liberty and Justice Fund, which focuses on providing bail money for incarcerated minors.
"White Castle has been a strong supporter of our brand since the beginning and we view them as part of our family," said Babak Radboy, Telfar's creative director, in a statement regarding the White Castle anniversary collection. "Their team would regularly serve Sliders backstage at all our shows, and they felt like an integral part of our team. Being the only late-night option in Telfar's neighborhood, seeing our uniforms there holds a special significance for us, and we take it to heart."
In a similar vein, last year Clemens hosted the brand's inaugural brick-and-mortar bag release at the Brooklyn location of budget-friendly retail chain Rainbow.
The brand's followers believe that it's Telfar's partnerships that truly distinguish it from others in the industry. While luxury fashion houses have traditionally focused on creating an aspirational lifestyle that feels out of reach for most consumers, Clemens has succeeded in building a more inclusive and accessible universe.
Telfar created uniforms for White Castle workers and a special collection to honor the chains 100th anniversary. The profits from the collection went to the Robert F. Kennedy Human Rights Liberty and Justice Fund, which supports minors in jail by providing bail money.
In the world of Telfar, Sakany stated, "There is no shame in being middle class or working class. It resonates with people and gives them a sense of worth."
Sakany also mentioned that Clemens has always been open about his queerness. As society becomes more accepting and celebratory of queer lifestyles and fashion, Telfar's pioneering emphasis on unisex styles has influenced other major brands.
Currently, major retailers such as Old Navy are selling gender-neutral clothing. According to Pratts Jones, individuals who are gay, Black, or trans are able to freely choose and wear clothing that makes them feel good without any specific label attached to it.
Radical pricing model
Clemens and Radboy believed that many designers charge based on what they think customers are willing to pay, which they considered arbitrary. "Why charge $600 for a hoodie?" Radboy stated in an interview with Fast Company. They felt that only a wealthy person could afford that price. As a result, the duo developed a new pricing model.
When Telfar released its latest unisex clothing line in March, the prices of the garments were not fixed. Instead, they were initially set at wholesale cost and then increased gradually by about one cent every 20 minutes until the item sold out, at which point the price would be set permanently. This approach, dubbed a "sale in reverse" by Telfar, meant that the faster an item sold, the lower its price. The dynamic pricing model aimed to make Telfar's designs more accessible, but it also ran the risk of confusing customers due to its unconventional nature.
Sakany expressed, "It demonstrates his confidence in the loyalty of his customer to support his brand, even though it may seem unconventional and challenging to comprehend."
Telfar launched the Telfar Bag Security Program in 2020 as a 24-hour event where customers could pre-order an unlimited number of bags in any size and color.
Darian DiCianno/BFA/Shutterstock
The updated pricing system was advantageous for Clemens' business. For designers, it is crucial to accurately forecast demand and avoid overproducing inventory in order to protect a brand's reputation and value. Otherwise, items may end up in discount stores or on clearance racks, resulting in financial loss and a decrease in prestige for the designer, as explained by Jones.
By implementing the dynamic pricing model, Telfar encouraged customers to share data on the most sought-after items, which can now be utilized to make more informed inventory decisions for upcoming collections.
It is uncertain if Telfar will persist in utilizing the dynamic pricing model for upcoming collections, but the brand has demonstrated that selling luxury fashion can be approached in a different way. "It was a game changer," Jones stated. Through TelfarTV, the brand now encourages customers to showcase their purchases while also supporting the promotion of the brand.
The channel, available for online viewing and through various streaming platforms, invites viewers to submit videos for possible inclusion in the program. It features a stream of TikTok-style videos showcasing customers' reactions as they unbox their purchases, on-the-street interviews, product highlights, and more. TelfarTV serves as a form of user-generated marketing that allows fans to actively participate in the ongoing narrative of Telfar.
"Everyone wants to join the team of their favorite designers," stated Jones. By submitting your content to TelfarTV, "you're truly joining in on the commercial success."
In a world where brand loyalty often extends to aligning with the company's values, it's important to provide customers with a platform to express and celebrate their love for its products.
"When we say Black-owned we are not talking about one person," reads the TelfarTV FAQ. "We didnt get to where we are alone."
