CNN's 11-Day Expedition: Unveiling Insights From Earth's Most Disputed Waters

Navigating the Taiwan Strait at night is a challenge that requires nerve, skill, and political acumen. A miscalculation could lead to an international conflict. Commander Sam Patchell of the Royal Canadian Navy is facing this test on a dark November night, before the moonrise.

Racing through a crowded waterway at speeds of up to 24 mph, the 4,800-ton frigate HMCS Ottawa maneuvers around commercial fishing boats and merchant vessels while adhering to international law, including China's recognized territorial waters. Meanwhile, the Ottawas radar tracks Chinese warships trying to keep up with the Canadian frigate, all amidst the bustling traffic of commercial vessels.

As the leader of a Royal Canadian Navy frigate, Patchell always has a lawyer and a public affairs officer by his side. For Canada - and other Western allies of the United States - this is all about upholding the "rules-based international order." If the Canadian ship were to violate the law of the sea by intruding into territorial waters, or give adversaries an opportunity to portray Ottawa's actions as "provocative," Patchell's 12-hour cruise would quickly turn into an international incident.

Lieutenant (Navy) Jacob Broderick and Sub-Lieutenant Ben Hughes, both Naval Warfare Officers, are pictured on the bridge of HMCS Ottawa as it transits through the Taiwan Strait during its Indo-Pacific Deployment on 2 November 2023. Commander Sam Patchell, the Commanding Officer of the ship, is also seen performing his duties. (Please note that the image has been digitally altered for operational security.)

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

And he's not just flying for himself. One mile behind the Ottawa, a US Navy destroyer is following Patchell's lead. While the approaching fishing boat might miss the Ottawa, if he doesn't leave enough space for it to maneuver, then it could be the US destroyer that runs into trouble.

CNN witnesses tense moments in some of the world's most contested waters as it accompanies the Ottawa's crew on a voyage spanning over 3,500 miles (5,600 kilometers). The crew engages in live-fire exercises, with the guns of three navies attempting to destroy a speedboat drone.

The Ottawa navigates through intense refueling operations at sea, coming within 200 feet of supply ships as large as 680 feet, equivalent to more than two football fields in length. Chinese warships are a common sight on the horizon, appearing mysterious as they maneuver through rain showers in the warm waters of the South China Sea.

At other times, the presence of China can be felt in the air, and it turned out to be intimidating for the crew of Ottawas helicopter. They were intercepted twice by Chinese fighter jets over international waters, and the jets performed maneuvers that jeopardized the safety of everyone involved, according to Canada's Defense Ministry.

Despite the tension, there are also moments of relaxation, such as barbecues, burgers and beers, a Halloween movie night, and a whimsical crossing-the-equator ceremony featuring a homemade wooden dunking tub and sentences delivered by King Neptune.

A dangerous place

The Taiwan Strait, a 110-mile wide channel that separates mainland China from the democratic island of Taiwan, is widely regarded as one of the most potentially volatile bodies of water in the world.

Amidst ongoing conflict in Gaza and Ukraine, fears arise that these regions could be potential sites for future battles.

Xi Jinping, the Chinese leader, has pledged to assert dominance over Taiwan, a territory claimed by the Chinese Communist Party despite never having governed it, even if it requires the use of force.

The Canadian frigate HMCS Ottawa is seen from the ship's helicopter as a US Navy helicopter rests on its flight deck in the East China Sea.

The United States remains dedicated to supporting the island in its defense efforts, and has consistently dispatched warships through the strait to uphold the right of free passage under international maritime law.

According to data compiled by Collin Koh, a research fellow at the S. Rajaratnam School of International Studies in Singapore, the USS Rafael Peralta completed its sixth transit on November 1, making it the sixth transit this year by US Navy or Coast Guard ships. Beijing views these sailings as a provocation and a violation of Chinese territory. The Royal Canadian Navy has also participated in some of these sailings, including one in June when a Chinese warship came dangerously close to the USS Chung-hoon, prompting the US captain to take evasive action to prevent a collision.

Chess on the water

The commander of HMCS Ottawa is vividly aware of that particular incident as his ship makes its way into the strait from the south on the early evening of November 1, with the Rafael Peralta in close pursuit.

Patchell outlines his strategy for the 12-hour strait crossing, intending to maintain a distance of at least 24 nautical miles from the coasts of both mainland China and Taiwan. Despite the 12 nautical mile limit for territorial waters, there exists an additional 12 nautical miles known as the "contiguous zone," serving as a buffer to provide a warning to ships approaching territorial waters. However, passing ships are within their rights to navigate this area.

Still, Taiwans military has ships in the strait monitoring the progress of the Ottawa and Rafael Peralta, prompting a warning for Patchell to alter course to avoid Taiwans zone.

As HMCS Ottawa sails through the Taiwan Strait during Indo-Pacific Deployment on 2 November 2023, Sailor 3rd Class Dilshan Hetti Hewage diligently scans the horizon for any potential threats or obstacles.

As the night goes on, Patchell makes sure the Ottawa doesn't end up facing China as it navigates through the waters. Sending the wrong message is something he wants to avoid, he explains.

As the day breaks and the Ottawa heads into the East China Sea at the north end of the strait, Patchell's navigation plan has proven successful. Chinese warships have kept their distance and have not attempted to contact the Ottawa via radio. This November night is free from a repeat of the Chung-hoon incident.

This is Chinas lake

Though the Peoples Liberation Army Navy doesnt hail HMCS Ottawa this time, they are always watching, visible on radar if unseen by the naked eye in the dark of night.

From the fourth day of the cruise onward, the PLA Navy has been consistently shadowing the Ottawa as it approaches the Spratly Islands in the South China Sea. Despite President Xi's promise and the United Nations tribunal ruling against them, Beijing has continued to build military installations on disputed territories, causing tension with other countries such as Vietnam, the Philippines, Malaysia, Brunei, and Taiwan. China claims the majority of the South China Sea, but its territorial claims are also contested by neighboring governments.

None of these governments make as broad claims as Beijing. Additionally, Beijing has an abundance of ships to enforce its claims. Under Xi's leadership, China's naval construction has flourished and now exceeds the US as the world's largest.

Every morning at 7 a.m., the crew of Ottawa is alerted to the presence of Chinese warships tracking them. A wakeup/breakfast call is broadcast over the ships loudspeakers, followed by a report on the ships situation, including the type and hull number of the Chinese warships.

Other reminders include the restriction on cell phone use on the open decks, particularly near Chinese-held islands, to prevent them from becoming hacking targets. Crew members are reminded not to take their devices outside through paper signs on the hatches. During daylight hours in the South China Sea, Chinese warships are often visible to the naked eye from Ottawa's flight deck or outdoor bridge wings. Their silhouettes can sometimes be seen against the setting sun at dusk.

HMCS Ottawa's embarked CH-148 Cyclone helicopter, "Greywolf", rests on the fight deck of the ship during flight operations in the South China Sea on 26 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole's photo from the Canadian Armed Forces.

On October 29, a potentially perilous situation arises, with the potential to endanger lives and escalate tensions in the South China Sea to unprecedented levels.

During the search for a previously sighted submarine contact east of the Chinese-claimed Paracel Islands, the Ottawa's helicopter, carrying a crew of four, experienced two near misses with Chinese fighter jets. On the second occasion, flares were released in front of the Canadian helicopter, posing a serious risk of crashing, according to Canadian officials. The air officer aboard the Ottawa, Maj. Rob Millen, described the incident as both unsafe and unprofessional due to the potential for the flares to damage the rotor blades or engines of the helicopter.

US defense officials reported almost 200 "coercive and risky" instances of Chinese flying over the South and East China Seas in the previous two years, indicating that the incident is not uncommon. Additionally, a Royal Canadian Air Force patrol plane reported an unsafe intercept by a Chinese jet just two weeks earlier.

Radar operators scan their instruments in a Canadian antisubmarine warfare helicopter over the East China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

Beijing has pushed back, accusing Canada of "smearing China" in the chopper episode and lecturing Washington on the location of such close encounters.

"A Chinese Defense Ministry spokesman confirmed on October 26 that they were operating in the waters and airspace around China, rather than in the Gulf of Mexico or off the US West Coast. He questioned how the Chinese military could intercept US aircraft and warships if they never came into the area.

Shortly after the flare incident, a CNN reporter flying over the East China Sea in a helicopter did not encounter a Chinese intercept, but did observe three Chinese warships within just a three-hour flight. This is only a small portion of an active fleet estimated by the Pentagon to consist of more than 340 warships."

In the copter's cabin, two radar operators scan their instruments for warship contacts, while in the cockpit, two pilots search for long wakes that indicate ships moving at high speeds. "That looks suspiciously like a warship," they comment when spotting something on their radar.

Long wakes visible from the air are often the first sign of warships spotted by the crew of a Canadian helicopter over the East China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

Live-fire drills

On the fourth day of the 12-day journey, Ottawa is positioned in the southern part of the South China Sea, alongside the USS Rafael Peralta and the Australian destroyer HMAS Brisbane. The three warships are lined up, with Peralta in the lead and Ottawa following behind, providing an opportunity to test their heavy artillery. This includes five-inch guns on the larger Peralta and Brisbane, and a 57mm-gun on Ottawa.

Ottawa boasts the star player in exercise equipment, the Hammerhead target drone, also known as an unmanned surface vehicle - target (USV-T). Essentially, it is a 16-foot remote-controlled speedboat that can reach speeds of up to 40 mph.

Hammerhead targets drones await their fate on the deck of the frigate HMCS Ottawa in the South China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

Radio operators aboard the Ottawa announce over international frequencies that the drill is about to begin, and they continue to issue the warning at 15-minute intervals throughout the drill. They identify themselves as "coalition warship 341," Ottawas hull number visible just behind its bow, and express their surprise at not identifying themselves as "Canadian warship 341" as is standard practice.

The live-fire drill is a reflection of the collaborative efforts being promoted in the region by Washington and its allies and partners. It is a component of the "Noble Caribou" exercise, which includes participation from ships and aircraft from the United States, Canada, Australia, Japan, and New Zealand.

The units rotate in and out of the exercises based on daily priorities, with only Canada, the US, and Australia taking part in the live-fire drill. Peralta, Brisbane, and Ottawa will test their big guns with smoke bursts over the South China Sea, while the Hammerhead prepares to make simulated attack runs.

Peralta initially fires at the speeding boat to test the destroyer's aim without necessarily sinking or disabling the Hammerhead. However, after a few shots, the US ship's gun misfires.

The Hammerhead remote training target is struck by an airburst round as Canadian, Australian, and US vessels participate in a live fire exercise in the South China Sea on October 26, 2023.

Photograph by Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces

The controllers from Ottawa begin the Hammerhead's run towards Brisbane, and the Australian destroyer's gunners are locked in. An explosive shell disables the remote-controlled speedboat in a cloud of black smoke and large splashes of shrapnel.

Despite the setback, the Hammerhead isn't sunk, and for safety reasons - as it could pose a navigational hazard to other ships if left on the surface - it must be sent to the bottom.

Ottawa's task is to handle the situation, but Cmdr. Patchell prefers not to utilize expensive shells from the ship's main gun, each costing over $7,000, to fulfill the task. Instead, ammunition from the ship's .50-caliber machine gun on the bridge wing should suffice in sinking the Hammerhead at a lower cost.

After a brief series of bursts, the 16-foot drone is engulfed in flames, rapidly succumbing to the fire as leaked fuel ignites atop the water. The bow of the Hammerhead tilts upward and it vanishes below the surface, leaving the ignited fuel and oil to burn for a minute or two.

Lt. Sean Milley, operations officer on the Ottawa, reports that the live-fire drill was a resounding success.

He notes that the Americans do not possess drones like the Hammerhead, and as a result, US gunners welcome the opportunity to be challenged by the Canadian drone in exercises of this nature.

Refueling at sea

The journey from Singapore to Okinawa will span nearly 11,000 miles (17,600 kilometers), a distance that Ottawa is well-equipped to handle.

The ship must always be prepared for any situation, according to Lt. Cmdr. Christine Hurov, the public affairs officer for the Ottawa. This includes keeping the fuel tanks filled for its two gas-turbine and single diesel engines through replenishments at sea, known as RAS to the crew.

Crew on board HMCS Ottawa's hold a distance line from USNS Wally Shirra as the two ships conduct a replenishment at sea mission in the South China Sea on 30 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

During an RAS event, Ottawa typically takes in an average of 40,000 gallons (150,000 liters) of fuel, which is about a quarter of its fuel tank capacity. The trip from Singapore to Okinawa involves four refuelings, with one from a New Zealand supply vessel, two from an American one, and one from an Australian one.

Refueling tests the nerves, seamanship, communication, and coordination for both the supply ships and the frigate crews. In the first RAS with HMNZS Aotearoa, the New Zealand Navy's largest ship ever, Cmdr. Patchell carefully maneuvers Ottawa, which is about five times smaller at 24,000 tons, alongside HMNZS Aotearoa.

The Ottawas crew takes cover behind solid objects as the supply ship shoots lines across to transport fuel hoses and distance markers. After securing the fuel hose to the Ottawas tanks, Patchell and his crew work to maintain a steady speed of 16 mph with the supply ship and keep the distance between 160 and 200 feet.

Patchell and his crew are also battling with the laws of physics. The fast-flowing, choppy waters between the two vessels are a real-world example of Bernouli's principle - where pressure changes caused by the speed of the water could potentially draw Ottawa towards the significantly larger tanker.

The HMCS Ottawa and HMAS Stalwart perform a nighttime Replenishment-At-Sea (RAS) in the East China Sea during their Indo-Pacific Deployment on November 2, 2023.

- Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

Patchell regularly makes small adjustments of one or two degrees to ensure that Ottawa stays on course and the fuel lines remain connected.

The refueling process lasts approximately 90 minutes. Once the fuel lines have been emptied and disconnected, the crew celebrates the successful RAS operation with loud music. On this particular occasion, they chose the Canadian artist the Weeknd's "Blinding Lights."

The later RAS, which took place on a Saturday with the American ship USNS Wally Schirra, concluded appropriately with Loverboy's hit song "Working for the Weekend." However, the crew of Australia's HMAS Stalwart likely deserves the award for best music during Ottawa's 11-day cruise.

The lighter side of the South China Sea

During a nighttime refueling in the East China Sea, the Australian vessel decided to play "Oh Canada" by rapper Classified, rather than the Canadian national anthem, as the first song in a series of tunes. The crew also used glow sticks to brighten up the work areas on board, creating a more festive atmosphere that felt more like a dance party than a military operation.

Similar to the Australians, the Canadians strive to maintain a sense of balance in the disputed waters. To this end, they host a beer, burger, and hotdog barbecue on the back flight deck. Additionally, they celebrate Halloween with decorations, costumes, and a movie night, complete with a frightening film shown on a large screen. All of this takes place under the almost full moon, with attendees seated in personal lawn chairs, and a nearby Chinese warship keeping a close watch.

But the highlight of this voyage for many aboard the Canadian frigate is a "crossing the line" ceremony, an event that marks the first time a sailor crosses the equator.

Members of HMCS Ottawa conduct a Crossing the Line ceremony after sailing over the equator on 24 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

Dozens of the crew of the Ottawa were initiated into a ceremony while the frigate was in the Southern Hemisphere, south of Malaysia and Singapore during its Pacific deployment. The ritual included rituals involving soaking, eating unappetizing food, a court presided over by King Neptune, god of the sea, and culminated in a dunking in a specially constructed "hot tub" on the rear flight deck of the Ottawa.

First-time crossers receive cards at the end to affirm their status, which they will cherish throughout their future sea voyages, in order to avoid facing the judgment of Neptunes court once more.

Members of HMCS Ottawa conduct a Crossing the Line ceremony after sailing over the equator on 24 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

One enlisted crewman describes getting the card as Christmas come early with the best present ever.

Its the kind of thing Patchell wants to hear from his crew.

He prefers his crew to remain relaxed, and he aims to demonstrate that Ottawa's actions are simply routine, moving through international waters in accordance with international laws and norms.

He goes over Ottawas planned route.