Azerbaijan: Where the Art of Carpets Ascends to its Zenith
Discover the enchanting country of Azerbaijan, where carpets reign supreme as the epitome of art With a saying that echoes their deep connection, wherever my carpet is, that's where I live, explore the wildly intricate designs and the breaking of traditional norms in this mesmerizing land
CNN Travel series is independently sponsored by the country it features. Editorial control, subject matter, reporting, and frequency of articles and videos are managed by CNN in accordance with our policy. In Azerbaijan, the saying goes, "xalçam harada, yurdum orada," meaning "wherever my carpet is, that's where I live."
Azerbaijan's deep connection with carpets is a cherished tradition that dates back to the Bronze Age, and continues to be an integral part of the country's culture. Today, carpets are a common sight in homes, restaurants, and even on display in souvenir shops. They are woven for various significant occasions, such as births, weddings, birthdays, and burials.
The art of weaving has been handed down through the generations, and each carpet carries its own distinct narrative. These carpets are such a cultural marvel that in 2010, UNESCO declared traditional Azerbaijani carpet weaving as part of the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum was founded in 1967. It's been in its current location (above) since 2014.
Azerbaijan Brand Center
The capital city of Baku is home to the stunning Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum, an architectural marvel that resembles a colossal, half-rolled carpet adorned with a golden geometric design. Designed by Austrian architect Franz Janz, the museum is situated along the bustling seaside promenade and boasts three floors showcasing a diverse collection of Azerbaijani carpets, ranging from modern to traditional, and in various sizes and styles. In addition to carpets, the museum also houses a collection of textiles, ceramics, jewelry, and traditional costumes. The museum's 6,000 carpets, dating from the 17th century to the present day, represent different regions across the country, from the Caspian Sea to the mountainous Karabakh.
The museum, established in 1967 by the celebrated artist and carpet weaver Latif Karimov, is dedicated to the celebration and preservation of Azerbaijani carpets. It was the first of its kind when it opened and has been located at its current site since 2014, functioning as a crucial hub for research and education.
Ripe pomegranate fruit, harvested in the autumn from a sunny garden, packed in a rustic wooden box. This delicious and sweet exotic fruit is not only tasty but also a great source of antioxidants, vitamins, and nutrition. Perfect for a healthy lifestyle and a low-sugar diet.
The king of fruits: Azerbaijan's enduring passion for pomegranates
Located just a stone's throw away from the museum, in the UNESCO-listed Old City of Baku, sits Azerkhalcha. This organization is committed to upholding the ancient practice of carpet weaving and honoring the women who dedicate themselves to it. Among them is 61-year-old Sevinj Hajiyeva, who learned the art of weaving at the tender age of 6, tutored by her own brother.
"Carpet weaving is more than just an art; it is a deep passion, a expression of love, and a lifelong dedication," she shares with CNN. "My greatest desire is to pass down this art to the next generation." According to Sevinj, weavers in Azerbaijan often convey emotions and thoughts through their carpets, treating them as cherished creations comparable to their own children.
Maleyka Abdullayeva and Najiba Panahova both work at Azerkhalchas workshop in Ismayilli, a northern region of Azerbaijan. Maleyka has devoted three decades of her life to carpet weaving, and for her, it is more than just a craft, but an "appreciation for one of the world's greatest beauties," she explains. Najiba was only 14 when her mother taught her how to weave, and she was "captivated by the enchanting dance of loops."
Wildly intricate
Azerbaijan carpets are primarily made from sheep's wool.
Emil Khalilov/Azerbaijan Brand Center
Azerbaijani carpets have a long and widespread history, dating back to the 10th century and celebrated in the "Book of Dede Korkut." The Arab traveler Al-Muqaddasi also praised them during his visit to Azerbaijan in the 10th century, stating that "their carpets have no equals in the world." Even ancient Greek historians and Marco Polo wrote about the significance of Azerbaijani carpets in their works.
Azerbaijan has two main types of carpets: flat weave and pile weave, which are further divided into four categories based on their regional origins: Guba-Shirvan, Ganja-Gazakh, Karabakh, and Tabriz.
The majority of these carpets are crafted using wool from either lambs or sheep, with the exception of silk carpets, which are produced exclusively in Sheki, the only silk-producing region in the country. There are eight types of flat-weave carpets, each differentiated by their motifs, composition, weaving method, and color: palas, jejim, ladi, kilim, shadda, varni, zili, and soumak.
Kilim and soumak are the most popular among Azerbaijanis, known for their bold geometric patterns and flat weaving on a loom with warp threads. Kilim has the same pattern on both sides and is thinner compared to soumak.
Azerbaijan's well-known ancient designs include Pirabadil from Guba, Verneh from Karabakh, and Surakhani from Shirvan. The Ardabil Carpet, one of the oldest dated carpets in the world, is believed to have been created in Tabriz, a city in Iran's East Azerbaijan Province where Azerbaijani is spoken.
The process of creating a carpet is incredibly intricate and time-consuming. It begins with raising sheep for their wool, typically done during spring or autumn. The wool is then washed, spun, and dyed before being woven into yarn using horizontal or vertical looms. In Azerbaijan, natural, ancient dyeing techniques are preferred, using extracts from plants, fruits, and vegetables such as red onion, saffron, nut shells, and pomegranates. These traditional techniques have withstood the test of time.
Breaking traditions
Faig Ahmed's stunning designs subvert tradition.
Courtesy Faig Ahmed Studio
The focus is not solely on the past and rigid tradition. Azerbaijan artist Faig Ahmed is recognized for dismantling conventional carpets and incorporating new, three-dimensional patterns that blend traditional styles with bold, abstract, and almost psychedelic designs. Born in Sumqayit and currently based in Baku, Ahmed has showcased his distinctive creations globally, with exhibitions in cities like New York, Paris, and Mumbai.
He showcased Azerbaijan at the 2007 Venice Biennale and was a top contender for the Jameel Prize 3 at London's Victoria and Albert Museum in 2013. It began with a hand-me-down carpet from his great-grandmother. As a young child, he spent hours studying the intricate designs and imperfections of the carpet. One day, he began cutting out the patterns, giving rise to his unique artistic talent. Although he may have damaged a valuable family heirloom, it marked the beginning of an extraordinary artist.
"As an Azerbaijani artist, I believe that the carpet acts as a unique form of artistic expression that can communicate universal themes," Ahmed explains to CNN Travel. "In Azerbaijani culture, the carpet is a powerful symbol that encapsulates history, tradition, social values, religion, politics, and geography. It represents a profound connection between the country's geographical landscape and its rich cultural heritage."
Ahmed also highlights the significance of carpets in Azerbaijani family life. He notes that in certain villages, newlyweds are gifted a carpet to symbolize the start of their union. Additionally, traditional funeral rituals involve wrapping the body in a specifically woven carpet, which is elongated in shape and features a symbolically empty center devoid of patterns.
Faig uses types of knots that are "exactly the same as those used thousands of years agolike the Pazyryk rug dating back 2,500 years, from Altai," despite the warped and conceptual nature of his designs, he says.
The Alinjagala Castle had a significant impact on the history of Azerbaijan in the Middle Ages, serving as a key fortification against enemies. Situated in Nakhchivan, an isolated portion of the Republic of Azerbaijan, it is often referred to as the Machu Picchu of Azerbaijan.
The Land of Fire is filled with powerful castles and fortresses, showcasing its formidable strength and history. Nonetheless, as I introduce intricate elements to this age-old weaving technique, it is crucial to create new methods and techniques.
In Azerbaijan, the preservation of carpet weaving is considered a top priority and is even being taught in universities and colleges throughout the country. For example, the Azerbaijan State University of Culture and Arts in Baku offers a bachelors degree in Decorative, Applied Art (carpet weaving).
Tourists can also visit carpet weaving workshops all over Azerbaijan, including the Qadim Quba in the northern Quba region. Artists like Faig Ahmed and Azerkhalcha are not only preserving ancient traditions but also bringing them into the 21st century. This ensures that carpets will remain an integral part of Azerbaijani culture for generations to come.
Farida Zeynalova, a travel journalist originally from Baku, Azerbaijan, is the author of Berlitz Pocket Guide Baku and serves as the assistant editor of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
