Ancient Cosmetic Discovery: Red Lipstick in 4,000-year-old Vial
Archaeologists unearthed a small stone vial in southeastern Iran revealing a red cosmetic, possibly ancient lipstick, used for lip coloring in ancient times.
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Archaeologists have found a small stone vial in southeastern Iran that contained a red cosmetic, possibly used as lip coloring around 4,000 years ago.
Researchers have reported in the journal Scientific Reports that they have found a rare example of lipstick, which they believe could be one of the earliest documented and analyzed.
The lipstick sample analyzed consisted of over 80% minerals that give off a deep red color, with hematite being the primary component. It also contained manganite and braunite, which are dark in color, along with traces of other minerals and waxy substances derived from vegetables and organic sources.
Image 1 is a figure smelling a lotus from the tomb of Meresankh in Giza
Image 1 is a figure smelling a lotus from the tomb of Meresankh in Giza
Sean Coughlin/Institute of Philosophy/Czech Academy of Sciences
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Scientists are currently working on uncovering the scents of the past. In a recent study, researchers found that the red coloring minerals and waxy substances found in ancient artifacts are similar to ingredients used in modern-day lipsticks.
Lead study author Massimo Vidale, an archaeologist at the University of Padua’s Department of Cultural Heritage in Italy, suggests that the cosmetic may have been used in other ways, such as a blusher. However, based on the homogenous deep red color, compounds used, and the shape of the vial, it is believed that it was primarily used on the lips.
Vidale highlights that this ancient, red-colored cosmetic is one of the first examples to be studied. Surprisingly, it remains unclear why cosmetic preparations resembling lipstick were not commonly found in the archaeological record.
"We are currently unsure about the exact shade. The deep red hue that we discovered is a new addition to our collection, whereas we had already come across various lighter shades of foundations and eye shadows," he mentioned in an email.
The substance found in the stone vial was made from different minerals — including hematite, shown in red.
The substance found in the stone vial was made from different minerals — including hematite, shown in red.
F. Zorzi
The use of hematite, also known as crushed red ocher, has been found in ancient cosmetic items such as stone palettes from the late Neolithic period and Egyptian cosmetic vessels. Joann Fletcher, a professor at the University of York, mentioned that the discovery of a vial from Iran raises questions about whether it could be the earliest form of lipstick. The key factor lies in determining the actual purpose of this new finding.
Fletcher pointed out that while it is possible that the contents of the vial were used as lip color, they could have also been applied to add color to the cheeks or for some other cosmetic purpose. Despite its resemblance to a modern lipstick tube, the true function of the vial remains uncertain. Fletcher, who was not part of the research team, shared these insights via email.
According to Laurence Totelin, a professor at Cardiff University specializing in Greek and Roman history, the artifact is likely a lipstick. Totelin notes that the recipe for the artifact is similar to modern ones and the deep red color matches what we would expect for lip makeup.
Totelin, who was not part of the study, mentioned via email that the deep red color and ingredients of the artifact align with what we typically see in lip makeup today.
Totelin mentioned that the ingredients commonly used in ancient medicines are also found in the vial, which has a shape suitable for pharmaceutical purposes.
Artifacts are uncovered during floods.
Other items discovered in Egypt and the Middle East by archaeologists include black kohl eyeliners and lighter-colored substances used for eye shadows or foundations. The vial’s contents had a lower lead content compared to other ancient cosmetics. Researchers believe this indicates that the makers of the lipstick were aware of the risks associated with lead, a toxic metal that can lead to various health issues.
Vidale mentioned that there is ongoing debate among experts regarding the toxicity of lead compounds in cosmetics.
Earlier research on artifacts from the same region as Vidale's findings indicate that 5,000 years ago, white lead was commonly used as the base material for facial foundations. However, the deep red preparation discovered in Vidale's excavation, believed to be intended for lips, contained very little lead, which could have been a deliberate choice.
The preparation also contained quartz particles, most likely from ground sand or crystal. The study proposed that these particles were added for a "shimmery-glittering" effect. It was also suggested that the quartz particles may have originated from the finely crafted vial itself, which was made from a greenish stone known as chlorite.
It’s also not clear what the original consistency of the cosmetic would have been — a fluid or more solid, Vidale said.
Neolithic stone bead excavated from a grave at Boncuklu Tarla, Türkiye in 2023.
Neolithic stone bead excavated from a grave at Boncuklu Tarla, Türkiye in 2023.
Courtesy Emma Baysal/Mardin Artuklu University
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The study authors noted that the vial's slender shape and limited thickness indicate that it may have been designed to be easily held in one hand, allowing the other hand to be free for using a brush or applicator. This observation was inspired by an ancient Egyptian papyrus from the 12th century BC showing a young woman painting her lips in a similar manner.
This particular artifact was discovered among numerous items found in Bronze Age tombs and graves in the Jiroft region of Iran. These graves, belonging to the ancient kingdom of Marhasi, were exposed when a river flooded in 2001, leading to looting and the subsequent sale of valuable items by locals. Fortunately, Iranian security forces were able to recover many stone and copper artifacts, including the vial.
The team took samples from the vial, which is now housed in the National Archaeological Museum of Jiroft.
Vidale described the discovery of this civilization as unexpected, with ancient cemeteries being exposed by a disastrous flood, revealing various archaeological treasures.
He added that the region is now well protected, but significant damages occurred. The civilization was similar to Mesopotamian culture, engaged in long-distance trade and military activities, had its own writing system, and was governed by influential cities and authoritative leaders. New excavations are revealing more about this ancient society.
Vidale mentioned that it remains unclear who would have used the lipstick and in what context. During that time, cosmetics were often found near the faces of the deceased in graves, according to Vidale.
However, given the looting and destruction of the graves, researchers have not been able to link the artifact with specific human remains.
Editor's P/S:
This archaeological discovery offers a fascinating glimpse into the cosmetic practices of an ancient civilization. The analysis of the red cosmetic found in the stone vial reveals a sophisticated understanding of chemistry and aesthetics. The use of hematite and other minerals to create a deep red hue demonstrates the ingenuity of these ancient artisans.
While the exact purpose of the cosmetic remains uncertain, its resemblance to modern lipsticks suggests that it may have been used for lip coloring or other cosmetic applications. The presence of quartz particles raises further questions about the intended texture and appearance of the preparation. Ongoing research on ancient artifacts from the same region will shed light on the broader cosmetic practices and cultural significance of these objects. deep red hue and the shape of the vial support this hypothesis, as they are consistent with the characteristics of modern lipsticks. The discovery of this ancient lipstick vial raises questions about the cultural significance of cosmetics in ancient societies. It is possible that cosmetics were used for religious rituals, social status, or simply for personal adornment. Further research is needed to shed light on these aspects of ancient cosmetic practices.
