What We Discovered: CNN Explores the Most Contentious Waters on Earth during an 11-Day Cruise

Navigating the Taiwan Strait at night in November is a challenging feat that requires nerves of steel, exceptional seamanship, and acute political awareness. One wrong move could spark an international conflict. Royal Canadian Navy Cmdr. Sam Patchell is braving these treacherous waters tonight, shrouded in darkness before the moonrise.

The frigate HMCS Ottawa, a 4,800-ton warship, maneuvers through numerous commercial fishing boats and merchant vessels at speeds of up to 24 mph. It is responsible for adhering to international law boundaries, including China's recognized territorial waters. Meanwhile, the Ottawa's radar monitors Chinese warships as they attempt to navigate through the bustling waterway alongside commercial vessels.

As the leader of a Royal Canadian Navy frigate, Patchell ensures that a lawyer and a public affairs officer are always at his side. This is crucial for Canada and its Western allies, as it is about upholding the "rules-based international order." If the Canadian ship were to violate the law of the sea by entering territorial waters or inadvertently provide adversaries with an opportunity to depict Ottawa's actions as "provocative," Patchell's 12-hour cruise could quickly escalate into an international incident.

Lieutenant(Navy) Jacob Broderick, Sub-Lieutenant Ben Hughes, and Commander Sam Patchell, all Naval Warfare Officers aboard HMCS Ottawa, are seen carrying out their duties on the ship's bridge during a transit through the Taiwan Strait as part of the Indo-Pacific Deployment on 2 November 2023.

*Image has been digitally modified for operational security*

Aviator Gregory Cole, a Canadian Armed Forces member, is not only flying for himself. A US Navy destroyer follows closely, a mile behind the Ottawa, in order to follow Patchell's lead. While the oncoming fishing boat may avoid the Ottawa, it is crucial for Cole to leave enough space for the US destroyer to maneuver and avoid any potential trouble.

CNN witnessed tense moments unfold in some of the world's most contested waters as it accompanied the Ottawas crew on a voyage covering over 3,500 miles (5,600 kilometers). The experience included live-fire exercises, during which three navies engaged in attempts to destroy a speedboat drone with their guns.

The Ottawa navigates through tense refueling at sea, coming within 200 feet of supply ships larger than 680 feet, while Chinese warships loom on the horizon, appearing mysterious as they maneuver through rain showers in the South China Sea.

At other times, the Chinese presence looms in the air, posing a threat to the Ottawas helicopter crew, as they were intercepted twice by Chinese fighter jets over international waters. The maneuvers executed by the Chinese jets put the safety of all personnel involved at unnecessary risk, according to Canadas Defense Ministry.

Despite the tension, there are also moments of relaxation, including barbecues, burgers, and beers, a Halloween movie night, and an over-the-top crossing-the-equator ceremony featuring a homemade wooden dunking tub and sentences handed down by King Neptune.

A dangerous place

The Taiwan Strait, which spans 110 miles and separates mainland China from the democratically-governed island of Taiwan, is widely regarded as one of the most potentially volatile bodies of water on the planet.

Amid ongoing conflicts in Gaza and Ukraine, there is growing concern among analysts that tensions in these regions could spill over into a potential military confrontation.

Chinese President Xi Jinping has pledged to bring Taiwan under Chinese control, a move that the Chinese Communist Party views as reclaiming its territory, even though it has never governed the island and is prepared to use force if deemed necessary.

The Canadian frigate HMCS Ottawa is seen from the ship's helicopter as a US Navy helicopter rests on its flight deck in the East China Sea.

The United States is dedicated to enabling the island to defend itself, regularly sending warships through the strait to assert the right of free passage under international maritime law.

USS Rafael Peralta completed its sixth transit on November 1st this year, as recorded by Collin Koh, a research fellow at the S. Rajaratnam School of International Studies in Singapore. Beijing has criticized these transits as provocative and as encroachments on Chinese territory. The Royal Canadian Navy has also participated in some of these transits alongside the US Navy, with one such instance occurring last June where a Chinese warship dangerously approached the USS Chung-hoon, prompting the US captain to take evasive action to avoid a collision.

Chess on the water

The commander of HMCS Ottawa is keenly aware of the incident as his ship navigates the strait from the south in the early evening of November 1, with the Rafael Peralta close behind.

Patchell details his strategy for the 12-hour strait crossing, emphasizing his intention to maintain a distance of at least 24 nautical miles from both the coasts of mainland China and Taiwan. He highlights the existence of the "contiguous zone" beyond the internationally recognized 12 nautical mile limit for territorial waters, explaining that it serves as a buffer zone for warning ships away from territorial waters, while affirming the right of passing ships to be in that zone.

Still, the Ottawas route triggers a caution from the Taiwanese military, with ships in the strait closely monitoring the movements of the Ottawa and Rafael Peralta. A radio transmission advises Patchell to change course in order to steer clear of Taiwan's designated zone.

Sailor 3rd Class Dilshan Hetti Hewage scans the horizon for potential threats or obstacles to HMCS Ottawa as the ship transits through the Taiwan Strait during Indo-Pacific Deployment on 2 November 2023.

Photograph by Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces

His main concern is the green-and-red-lit commercial fishing boats that keep appearing in front of the Ottawa. Avoiding a collision with them is Patchell's top priority. He directs the crew to make small course adjustments to navigate the Ottawa between the lights, thinking several moves ahead as if he were playing chess.

Throughout the night, as the Ottawa weaves, Patchell works tirelessly to ensure that his ship's bow does not point in the direction of China, as he believes it could send the wrong message.

As the day breaks, the Ottawa heads into the East China Sea at the northern end of the strait, and Patchell's navigation plan has proven successful. Chinese warships have kept their distance and have not attempted to communicate with the Ottawa via radio. This November night is free of any incident like the one involving the Chung-hoon.

This is Chinas lake

Though the Peoples Liberation Army Navy doesnt hail HMCS Ottawa this time, they are always watching, visible on radar if unseen by the naked eye in the dark of night.

The PLA Navy has been consistently shadowing the Ottawa since the fourth day of the cruise, particularly as the Canadian ship approaches the Spratly Islands in the southern part of the South China Sea. This area is a source of conflict as Beijing has constructed military installations on artificial islands in territories that are disputed, despite President Xi's promise not to do so and disregarding a United Nations tribunal ruling that some of these territories do not belong to China. China asserts its ownership of almost the entire 1.3 million-square-mile South China Sea, but other governments such as Vietnam, the Philippines, Malaysia, Brunei, and Taiwan also lay claim to parts of it.

None of these governments make claims as extensive as those from Beijing. Furthermore, Beijing has an ample supply of ships to assert its claims. Xi has supervised a surge in naval construction in China, resulting in the country's navy surpassing the US as the world's largest.

The crew of the Ottawa is constantly informed about the presence of Chinese ships. Every morning at 7 a.m., the loudspeakers on the ship announce a wakeup call and breakfast, followed by a report on the ship's status. This report includes details about the type and hull number of the Chinese warships that are tracking the Ottawa.

Other reminders are also in place. Most notably, cell phones are prohibited on the open decks of the ships, particularly near Chinese-held islands, to prevent them from being targeted for hacking. Crew members are reminded not to take their devices outside with paper signs posted on hatches leading to the outdoors.

During daylight hours in the South China Sea, Chinese warships are often visible to the naked eye from Ottawa's flight deck or outdoor bridge wings. In the evening, their silhouettes can sometimes be discerned against the backdrop of the setting sun.

HMCS Ottawa's embarked CH-148 Cyclone helicopter, "Greywolf", rests on the fight deck of the ship during flight operations in the South China Sea on 26 October 2023.

The situation escalated on October 29, posing a potential danger that could have resulted in loss of lives and increased tensions in the South China Sea.

As the Ottawa's helicopter searched for a previously detected submarine contact near the Paracel Islands, it encountered two Chinese fighter jets. The first came within 100 feet of the Canadian helicopter, and on the second incident, the fighter jets released flares in front of it, posing a potential crash risk. Maj. Rob Millen, air officer aboard the Ottawa, classified this action as unsafe and unprofessional, as it posed a threat to the helicopter's rotor blades and engines.

US defense officials reported nearly 200 "coercive and risky" incidents of Chinese flying in the South and East China seas in the past two years. Additionally, a Royal Canadian Air Force patrol plane experienced an unsafe intercept by a Chinese jet just two weeks earlier.

Radar operators scan their instruments in a Canadian antisubmarine warfare helicopter over the East China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

Beijing has pushed back, accusing Canada of "smearing China" in the chopper episode and lecturing Washington on the location of such close encounters.

A Chinese Defense Ministry spokesman stated on October 26 that their military presence was in the waters and airspace around China, not in the Gulf of Mexico or off the US West Coast, questioning how they could intercept US aircraft and warships if they did not come. A few days later, a CNN reporter flying over the East China Sea in a helicopter recalled the flare incident and noted the presence of three Chinese warships during a three-hour flight, highlighting the extensive fleet estimated at over 340 warships by the Pentagon.

Two radar operators in the copter's cabin scan their instruments for warship contacts, while in the cockpit, two pilots search for long wakes indicating high-speed ship movement.

"Looks like a warship," they say when spotting something suspicious.

Long wakes visible from the air are often the first sign of warships spotted by the crew of a Canadian helicopter over the East China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

Live-fire drills

On the fourth day of our 12-day journey, we find ourselves in the southern part of the South China Sea, accompanied by the warships USS Rafael Peralta and the Australian destroyer HMAS Brisbane.

These three surface combatants are positioned in a row, with Peralta at the front and Ottawa at the rear, providing an opportunity to test their weaponry. Peralta and Brisbane are equipped with five-inch guns, while Ottawa has a 57mm-gun.

Ottawa is home to the star player of the exercise: the Hammerhead target drone, also referred to as an unmanned surface vehicle - target (USV-T). This 16-foot remote-controlled speedboat can reach speeds of up to 40 mph.

Hammerhead targets drones await their fate on the deck of the frigate HMCS Ottawa in the South China Sea.

Brad Lendon/CNN

The radio operators aboard the Ottawa broadcast over international frequencies, announcing the imminent start of the drill and repeating the warning at 15-minute intervals throughout. They refer to themselves as "coalition warship 341," pointing out that it's unusual not to use the standard "Canadian warship 341" designation, as seen just behind the ship's bow.

The live-fire drill is a demonstration of the collaborative efforts being encouraged in the area by the United States and its allies and partners. This exercise, known as "Noble Caribou," includes participation from ships and aircraft from five nations: the United States, Canada, Australia, Japan, and New Zealand.

The units from each of the five countries rotate in and out of the exercises based on daily priorities. Only Canada, the US, and Australia are involved in the live-fire drill.

Peralta, Brisbane, and Ottawa take turns testing their big guns, creating smoke bursts over the open water of the South China Sea, while the Hammerhead prepares to make simulated attack runs at them.

Peralta takes the first shot at the speeding boat, firing off rounds to gauge the destroyer's aim without necessarily trying to sink or disable the Hammerhead. However, after a few shots, the gun on the US ship misfires.

A round from an airburst strikes the Hammerhead remote training target as Canadian, Australian, and US vessels engage in a live fire exercise in the South China Sea on October 26, 2023. (Photo credit: Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces)

The controllers in Ottawa initiate the Hammerhead's run towards Brisbane, causing the Australian destroyer's gunners to take aim. An explosive shell hits the remote-controlled speedboat, engulfing it in black smoke and sending shrapnel flying in all directions.

Despite the damage, the Hammerhead remains afloat. To ensure the safety of other ships and prevent it from becoming a navigational hazard, it must be sunk to the bottom.

That's Ottawa's responsibility, but the commanding officer, Cmdr. Patchell, prefers not to use expensive shells from the ship's main gun, which cost over $7,000 each, for the task. The ammunition from the .50-caliber machine gun on the ship's bridge wing should be sufficient to sink the Hammerhead at a lower cost.

Following a few bursts, flames erupt from the 16-foot drone, rapidly engulfing it as leaked fuel burns atop the water. The Hammerhead's bow lifts up and it submerges, leaving fuel and oil burning for a brief period.

Lt. Sean Milley, the operations officer aboard the Ottawa, reported that the live-fire drill was a resounding success. According to him, the American gunners greatly appreciate the opportunity to be challenged by the Canadian drone in exercises as they do not have drones like the Hammerhead.

Refueling at sea

The distance between Ottawa and Okinawa is approximately 11,000 miles (17,600 kilometers), which is sufficient to cover the entire journey from Singapore to Okinawa during this trip.

Lt. Cmdr. Christine Hurov emphasizes the importance of the ship being prepared for any situation. This includes keeping the fuel tanks for its two gas-turbine and single diesel engines constantly replenished through at-sea replenishments, known as RAS to the crew.

Crew on board HMCS Ottawa's hold a distance line from USNS Wally Shirra as the two ships conduct a replenishment at sea mission in the South China Sea on 30 October 2023.

Canadian Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

During its trip from Singapore to Okinawa, the Ottawa takes an average of 40,000 gallons (150,000 liters) of fuel in a RAS event, which is about a quarter of its fuel tank capacity. The refueling is done four times, with one from a New Zealand supply vessel, two from an American vessel, and one from an Australian vessel.

The refueling procedures test the crews' nerves, seamanship, communications, and coordination of both the supply ships and the frigate.

In the first RAS with the largest ship in the New Zealand Navy, HMNZS Aotearoa, Cmdr. Patchell carefully maneuvers his ship alongside the 24,000-ton HMNZS Aotearoa, which is about five times the size of Ottawa.

The Ottawas crew takes cover behind solid objects as the supply ship fires lines to carry fuel hoses and distance markers. After locking the fuel hose into the receptacle for Ottawas tanks, Patchell and his crew work to maintain a consistent speed of 16 mph with the supply ship and keep the distance between 160 to 200 feet.

Patchell and his ship drivers are also grappling with the forces of physics. The churning, tumultuous seas between the two ships exemplify the real-world implications of Bernouli's principle - where pressure shifts caused by the velocity of the water could draw Ottawa towards the significantly larger tanker.

During the Indo-Pacific Deployment on 2 November 2023, HMCS Ottawa and HMAS Stalwart performed a Replenishment-At-Sea (RAS) in the East China Sea at night.

Patchell makes small adjustments of one or two degrees to maintain Ottawa's alignment and keep the fuel hoses connected.

The refueling process lasts approximately 90 minutes. Once the fuel lines are drained and disconnected, the crew celebrates with blaring music. On this particular occasion, they were treated to "Blinding Lights" by Canadian artist, the Weeknd.

The later RAS, taking place on a Saturday with the American ship USNS Wally Schirra, came to a fitting end with Loverboy's "Working for the Weekend" playing. However, the crew of Australia's HMAS Stalwart likely takes the prize for best music during Ottawa's 11-day cruise.

The lighter side of the South China Sea

During a nighttime refueling in the East China Sea, the Australian vessel unexpectedly started playing "Oh Canada" by rapper Classified, instead of the Canadian national anthem, as the first song in a series. The addition of glow sticks used for lighting on the Ottawa made the ocean feel more like a dance party than a military operation.

Similar to their Australian counterparts, Canadians strive to maintain a sense of equilibrium in their activities within these disputed waters. This includes hosting a beer, burger, and hotdog barbecue on the rear flight deck, as well as celebrating Halloween with decorations, costumes, and a movie night showing a spooky film on a large screen. The movie is enjoyed from personal lawn chairs under the glow of an almost full moon, all while being observed by a vigilant Chinese warship.

But the highlight of this voyage for many aboard the Canadian frigate is a "crossing the line" ceremony, an event that marks the first time a sailor crosses the equator.

Members of HMCS Ottawa conduct a Crossing the Line ceremony after sailing over the equator on 24 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

Dozens of crew members on board the frigate Ottawa were initiated into a ritual ceremony during its Pacific deployment, which included a dip into the Southern Hemisphere near Malaysia and Singapore. The ceremony included various activities such as soakings, eating unappetizing food, a court presided over by King Neptune, and ended with a dunking in a specially constructed "hot tub" on the rear flight deck of the ship.

Upon completion of the journey, newcomers are provided with cards to validate their position, a memento they will hold dear throughout their maritime adventures, for fear of facing the judgment of Neptunes court once more.

Members of HMCS Ottawa conduct a Crossing the Line ceremony after sailing over the equator on 24 October 2023.

Aviator Gregory Cole/Canadian Armed Forces Photo

One enlisted crewman describes getting the card as Christmas come early with the best present ever.

Its the kind of thing Patchell wants to hear from his crew.

He prefers his crew to remain relaxed, while also demonstrating that Ottawa's actions are simply routine, following international laws and norms as they move through international waters.

He goes over Ottawas planned route.