Unveiling Turkey's Secret Ski Enclave
Turkey's hidden ski world is a treasure trove for adventure seekers Nestled in the breathtaking Kaçkar mountains, it offers unparalleled heli-skiing experiences, pristine runs, and waist-high powder Immerse yourself in traditional mountain village life while carving through this winter wonderland
Looking out of the airplane window, he caught sight of the magnificent "white gold." Majestic snowy mountains stretched for miles along the southern boundary of the Black Sea.
He saw his future unfold before him, compelling him to examine it further. Swiss mountain guide, Thierry Gasser, was returning home after a heli-skiing expedition in Kyrgyzstan in 2001. While seated, he caught sight of the familiar Caucasus mountains to the north, but it was the captivating series of gleaming peaks to the south that piqued his curiosity.
Gasser admired the expansive Kaçkar range in northeast Turkey, with its flawless blue skies. "The initial view from the plane was awe-inspiring; we were met with towering mountains and an extensive range. This signaled our decision to explore each valley and peak," Gasser shares with CNN Travel.
He had been searching for the perfect destination to establish his own heli-ski business. After years of working as a guide for other operators around the world, he had three specific requirements in mind. First, he wanted a location close to Europe to avoid jet lag. Secondly, he desired a large, high-altitude mountain range. And lastly, if possible, he preferred a coastal setting for abundant snowfall and a more stable snowpack. Gasser had extensive experience guiding clients in various regions such as the Russian Caucasus, Uzbekistan, India, Canada, Alaska, and throughout Europe. Exploring a new frontier for heli-skiing was also on his agenda.
Gasser and his Italian friend, Danilo Garin, discovered that the Kaçkar range, located near the border of Turkey and Georgia, appeared to be an ideal choice as they examined the maps. This chain spans 75 miles (121 kilometers) and seemed to fulfill their criteria.
The Kaçkar mountains, near Turkeys border with Georgia, are perfect for a heli-ski trip.
Courtesy Turkey Heliski
Reconnaissance mission
During the summer of 2002, Gasser dedicated an entire month to exploring the region on foot, venturing into the valleys, evaluating the available amenities, and even taking flight over the majestic mountain ranges. The most prominent peak, Kaçkar Dagi, stood towering at an impressive altitude of over 13,000 feet (3,962 meters).
Gasser, who resides in Verbier during the winter, praises the ideal mountainous landscape for heli-skiing. With over 50 potential runs available in each valley and a convenient proximity to the base, guests find the location to be perfect. He specifically focused on Ayder, a charming traditional village known as a "yayla" or summer highland pasture, adorned with picturesque wooden houses, barns, and encompassed by enchanting pine forests and mesmerizing waterfalls.
The village, nestled in a picturesque, narrow valley formed by the meandering Firtina river, attracts a multitude of regional tourists and visitors from the Middle East during the summer season. It offers a plethora of engaging activities like soothing hot springs, thrilling rafting adventures, and invigorating hiking trails.
As winter sets in, a harmonious blend of damp air from the Black Sea and chilly mountain breeze brings abundant snowfall to higher altitudes. From January to April, the village transforms into a winter wonderland, blanketed in pristine powder snow.
"It's simply phenomenal skiing," exclaims Oliver Evans, founder of Elemental Adventure, a London-based heli-skiing agency specializing in curated trips for small groups and private clients to over a dozen breathtaking mountain destinations across the globe.
"It's astonishing how close we are to experiencing the thrill of Canadian-style heli-skiing, right here in Europe."
In winter, the yaylas (traditional mountain villages) are all yours.
In the winter, these quaint villages sit abandoned under a thick blanket of snow, with their snow-covered rooftops and mosques. It's a truly exotic experience to awaken in the morning to the distant call to prayer resonating outside your hotel. Skiing in such a unique location is the exact opposite of what one would typically expect.
Gasser ran his first trips from Ayder in 2005 with one helicopter, rented from Air Zermatt in Switzerland.
"They opened the road and opened one hotel just for us," said Gasser.
At first, nobody was there in the winter. However, now on weekends, the village is filled with people who come to enjoy the snow. They engage in activities like sledding, tubing, lighting fires, having barbecues, singing, and dancing.
It's nonstop pristine powder in this area.
Courtesy Turkey Heliski
Taking to the skies
Due to bureaucratic constraints, Gasser was compelled to cease operations after a few years. However, his determination to persevere remained unwavering, ultimately leading to his successful reopening in 2018. Remarkably, he secured exclusive rights to an expansive area spanning nearly 2,000 square miles, equivalent in size to a significant portion of the French Alps and some regions of Italy. This vast territory is specifically reserved for a select group of approximately 20 skiers each week.
In January 2023, with little snow in the European Alps and low expectations, Evans traveled to Istanbul and then flew to Rize, a local airport only an hour away from Ayder, to organize a trip for his clients. Another option is Trabzon, a regional airport that is a two-hour drive away.
On the first day, Evans recalls that it was snowing heavily. He took some clients on a snowcat ride through the forest to provide avalanche rescue training and assess their skiing ability. They then skied back down to the village, stopping at a small café by the tracks for a cup of local Turkish tea.
"People were giving you strange looks as you skied by because they weren't used to seeing skiers there," Evans explains. The next day, the weather improved and Evans, along with one of the clients, and guides Georg and Yann, excitedly boarded the helicopter waiting just outside their hotel base, the three-star Hasimoglu in Ayder.
In Turkey's enchanting Alpine paradise, Swiss pilot Dany smoothly maneuvered the aircraft above the snow-covered trees and emerged from the valley. Instantly, a magnificent panorama of untouched majestic peaks unfolded before them, while the sparkling Black Sea revealed itself in the northern horizon. Within a few minutes, he safely landed them on the peak of a slope affectionately known as Home Run.
"It was a clear blue sky, with no clouds in sight, and a frigid temperature. The base was covered in a fresh layer of 70-80 centimeters [28-31 inches] of snow. Evans describes it as simply unbelievable."
They patiently waited for the noise of the helicopter blades and the distinct "wop-wop-wop" sound to fade away. There was a brief moment of silence to appreciate the enticing slopes below them, before the guides calmly explained the plan. Unlike the chaotic atmosphere of a busy ski resort on a powder day, there was a serene tranquility up here.
"My first turns of the winter and it was thigh-to-waist, light, proper cold-smoke powder," says Evans.
Those who know to visit Turkey are 'giggling like school kids' once they hit the slopes.
Courtesy Turkey Heliski
The client and I were filled with childlike glee, astounded by our incredible fortune in making such a significant achievement on the very first day of the season. The level of excitement was palpable even among the guides, who seemed to acknowledge that this experience was beyond extraordinary.
Amidst the jubilation, there was an abundance of exuberant cheers and celebratory gestures, reminiscent of an American atmosphere. Within just ninety minutes, I had the privilege of skiing through an unprecedented amount of untouched powder, surpassing anything I had encountered in the past decade.
They landed on a ridge to have lunch after a delightful morning of dancing amidst feathers. They savored sandwiches, hot soup, chocolate, fruit, and nuts, along with tea, coffee, and beverages from the helicopter's cool box.
Evans reminisces, "We found ourselves in front of a quaint abandoned village, where snow draped the roofs of shepherd huts, and the minaret of a mosque served as a gentle reminder that we were in Turkey, not British Columbia. It was undoubtedly the most remarkable day of skiing in my life."
Apres ski here is low key, with hot baths, games of table tennis or massages.
Courtesy Turkey Heliski
The powder scene
In Ayder, the average vertical drop for a run is approximately 900 meters (or nearly 3,000 feet). Clients can expect to enjoy 11-15 runs per day, ensuring a fulfilling experience. Maintaining professionalism and prioritizing safety, the guides diligently monitor the risk of avalanches throughout the day.
Contrary to popular belief, heli-skiing is often misunderstood as an extreme sport, but in reality, it is not. As Evans explains, the process of getting out of a helicopter is done with great caution, taking slow and deliberate steps. Remember, "slow is fast." Although currently a few women participate in heli-skiing, there is no reason why there couldn't be more female enthusiasts joining in the adventure.
After a day of skiing, guests can enjoy a laid-back apres ski experience at the Hasimoglu. The establishment was renovated in 2016, providing a welcoming atmosphere for relaxation. Guests can unwind in the soothing hot baths sourced from natural springs, while savoring the flavors of traditional Turkish coffee or delicious beverages from the bar. For those seeking a bit of activity, a game of table tennis can be enjoyed or a visit to the skilled on-site masseurs.
When it comes to dining, the dinner experience at the Hasimoglu is a delightful buffet affair. An array of enticing salads, accompanied by classics like humus, pitta, falafel, kofte, aubergine, tomatoes, and grilled meats, ensure that guests have plenty of delectable options to indulge in. In addition, local specialties such as hamsi kusu, a delightful Black Sea anchovy dish, and muhlama, a comforting combination of corn flour, butter, and cheese, showcase the unique flavors of the region.
Gassers boasts a diverse team of guides hailing from various countries across the globe, including Switzerland, France, Italy, Germany, Austria, Sweden, New Zealand, Canada, and the USA. Combined with the local Turkish staff, this creates a cosmopolitan blend.
Famous American snowboarder Jeremy Jones (left) is a fan of the powder here.
Courtesy Turkey Heliski
He says, "The Turkish people are incredibly friendly, hospitable, and have a very welcoming attitude. They are always willing to assist us, and it is truly a delight to collaborate with them."
During unfavorable weather conditions, guests have the option to partake in alternative activities such as skiing with the snowcat, snow shoeing, or engaging in ski touring. Additionally, visitors can explore a tea plantation, honey-makers, and craft centers, or simply unwind at local eateries.
In the hidden corners of Turkey's Aegean coast, a secret world emerges. During a visit by renowned American snowboarder Jeremy Jones, a captivating tale unfolded. Astonishingly, the local residents unveiled a remarkable tradition spanning over six decades - gliding through the village on antiquated wooden boards, equipped with rope handles and a rudimentary steering stick.
"Perhaps snowboarding had its beginnings in that small village nestled in the Kaçkar mountains, rather than in the USA," Gasser chuckles. "It's quite an intriguing tale."
There is a sense of advancement in the atmosphere in Ayder, as the Turkish government actively contemplates initiatives to establish a well-equipped resort complete with ski lifts. Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, who originates from Rize, took a momentous step by visiting the area in 2020, aiming to boost winter tourism.
The Kaçkar mountains could soon be on the world ski map, and not just for heli-skiing.
"We will be very happy if, one day, there is a ski resort in Ayder," says Gasser.
