Unveiling the Intriguing Depths of an Everyday Vegetation

Right now, chefs globally are in their kitchens, chopping and cutting onions and shedding tears. These tears are the sacrifice for the delicious stew, flavorful stir-fry, tasty custard pie, hearty bread, or spicy salsa that will be enjoyed soon. All of this is made possible by the simple onion.

Onions are the second most widely produced vegetable in the world, second only to tomatoes, which are technically a fruit. Julia Child famously expressed her belief that a civilization without onions would be unimaginable. Her friend and fellow television cooking pioneer James Beard, who was known for his love of onion sandwiches, called the ubiquitous vegetable "a thing of beauty in itself, and certainly a gastronomic joy that should never be taken for granted."

In his recently released book, "The Core of an Onion," Mark Kurlansky shares a lively collection of interesting facts and stories to help us better understand the significance of this common kitchen ingredient in our daily lives and throughout world history.

Author Mark Kurlansky, known for picking seemingly mundane singular subjects to tell a global story, now turns his attention to "The Core of an Onion."

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Kurlansky provides an in-depth look at the evolution of onion cooking over time, featuring recipes from historical texts such as the 18th century favorite of King George II - onion soup and the award-winning lemon pie made with pureed boiled onions from the 1987 Vidalia Onion Festival.

Kurlansky is renowned for his ability to take a seemingly ordinary topic, often related to food, and use it as a lens to uncover a larger global narrative. His 1997 book, "Cod: A Biography of a Fish That Changed the World," was a massive success, translated into 15 languages and becoming an international bestseller. Other titles include "Milk!," "Paper: Paging Through History," and "Salt."

I reached out to Kurlansky at his residence in New York City to delve deeper into his approach to storytelling.

This conversation has been condensed and edited for clarity.

CNN: What prompted you to embark on this onion odyssey?

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Mark Kurlansky: I believe that onions are underrated. They are always present and widely used. There is a distinction between something being common and something being ordinary. Onions are common, but they are actually quite extraordinary. They are biologically and gastronomically unique. Due to their exceptional qualities, they are utilized worldwide. One of their remarkable attributes is their ability to thrive in various climates, including tropical, arid, and even arctic regions.

CNN: Are there really people who eat whole onions?

Kurlansky: Eating whole onions is a common practice in certain parts of the world, even non-sweet onions. This is especially prevalent in central Europe. I recall traveling by train through what was formerly Yugoslavia and observing people casually snacking on whole onions.

CNN: It's difficult to imagine.

Kurlansky: Some individuals have managed to do so, but they are often judged and considered to be of low social status. This is even reflected in "Don Quixote," when the mad knight advises Sancho Panza that eating onions makes him look low-class.

During the Middle Ages and beyond, the English often spoke ill of the Scots, describing them as backwards. However, upon visiting Scotland, I found that the people were quite the opposite of what was said; they were not lazy onion munchers. Similarly, the Arabs who controlled Sicily once belittled the people of Palermo for their consumption of raw onions, deeming them unintelligent. Interestingly, onions on bread was considered a humble meal in London, as well as in various other places, including Portugal.

CNN: Did you develop a taste for this combination early in life as well?

Kurlansky: Absolutely! I supposedly took a loaf of onion rye and hid under the bed to eat it. I remember loving the onion rye, but I don't remember the "under the bed" part. It might be true.

Vegan raw vegetables on green wooden table full frame background

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CNN: I never considered onions to be appealing to children.

Kurlansky: I did! I might have been an unusual child. When I was young, vichyssoise soup was one of my favorite things. I adored vichyssoise! This chilled, creamy soup made with potatoes and leeks, topped with small green dashes of chives.

CNN: Did you grow up in a family that loved to cook?

Kurlansky: My mother was constantly in the kitchen preparing meals for our family of six. She also loved to bake, so there were always pies and cakes in the house. My grandmother, who grew up on the Lower East Side of New York, also cooked a lot of Jewish food and made delicious strudel.

CNN: How and when did you get into Basque culture?

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Kurlansky: During the 1970s when Franco still held power in Spain, the country was reminiscent of a 1930s fascist state with people giving fascist salutes. There was limited coverage of this in American newspapers, so I approached them and requested to write about the resistance to the last fascist government in Spain. Despite the lack of resistance, except for the Basques, I found myself captivated by the beautiful and fascinating culture of Spain. The region offered some of the most delicious salt cod dishes I had ever tasted, surpassing those found anywhere else.

CNN: Onions are a staple in almost every type of cuisine. Have you observed any differences in the way onions are used in the various places you have lived?

Kurlansky: Yes, there are differences, but there are also some commonalities. Onions are a key ingredient in making stews everywhere. In Andalusia, it's said that making a stew without onions is "like trying to sing a song without a tambourine." Additionally, there are unique local customs in each place. For example, the elaborate Hungarian-stuffed onions and the Basque tradition of using onions instead of rice as filler for blood sausages. Despite its regional origins, the combination of blood and onions can be found in Catalan, Hungarian, and some French cuisines. It seems to be a recurring theme.

For raw onions, Kurlansky says he prefers red. He says wearing glasses when cutting onions is one of the simplest ways to prevent crying.

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CNN: Your recipes are fascinating to read, but not exactly designed for the modern kitchen. Did you make any of them?

Kurlansky finds the recipe interesting but does not promise it will be a fantastic dish. He mentions the Peruvian dish encebollada, a favorite onion dish of his which translates to "onioned." He notes that the recipe is similar to ceviche but with onions instead of fish, and describes it as a version of ceviche for those with limited resources. CNN agrees, noting that the texture of the marinated onions could resemble that of fish.

Photo Illustration by Alberto Mier/CNN

Transform your leftovers into a flavorful condiment by combining onions and lime. The acidity of the lime releases the red pigment in the onions, creating a visually stunning and vibrant fuchsia color that enhances the taste of any dish. Add a spoonful to brighten up your favorite foods straight from the refrigerator.

Do you have a preferred type of onion? The debate over whether to add cilantro to encebollada is ongoing, and some argue that it adds the finishing touch, similar to how it works with ceviche. The contrast of the bright green cilantro on top of the vibrant fuchsia of the dish is simply ideal.

Kurlansky prefers red onions for raw consumption and sweet onions for cooking, choosing stronger onions for certain dishes and cuisines. In India, the hot climate produces particularly strong onions, essential for authentic Indian flavors. As for preventing tears while cutting onions, creative methods include lighting a match or biting on the handle of a wooden spoon.

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Kurlansky points out that the most often overlooked solution to the problem is simply wearing glasses, which is not foolproof but does offer some relief. Additionally, he mentions the option of using onion goggles. Also, CNN emphasizes the importance of covering your nose as well.

Kurlansky explains that chopping onions under running water has some scientific basis, as the sulfuric gas released by onions is drawn to water. This gas turns into sulfuric acid when it hits the water in our eyes, causing irritation. However, having another water source can divert some of that gas.