Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel's weekly newsletter, to stay updated on the latest news in aviation, food and drink, accommodations, and other travel developments. The impressive aspect of Loch Ness goes beyond its vast volume of water. With its 23-mile length and steep walls descending into a 754-foot deep abyss, it is deep enough to submerge Edinburgh Castle twice over.
The striking feature is the eerie darkness. The loch is tainted with peat from the surrounding rivers and streams, resulting in water as brown as the tea served in guesthouses in the neighboring village of Drumnadrochit and the expansive Highlands. Furthermore, the temperature is frigid, remaining around 40 F (4 or 5 C) throughout the year.
"You could be swimming beside a massive 400-foot submarine, and it would be merely two feet in front of you, completely invisible," explains Alan McKenna, a social worker who founded the Loch Ness Exploration research group in his spare time. "It's akin to a hidden world beneath the surface."
Nessie enthusiasts rode out in August 2023 for the biggest monster hunt in 50 years. The rain "was Biblical," says Alan McKenna.
Jeff J Mitchell/Getty Images
90 years since the first monster photograph
If you haven't been living in complete isolation or oblivious to popular knowledge, Loch Ness and its enigmas are likely to be well-known to you. As we approach November 12, it marks the 90th anniversary of the moment when Hugh Gray, a factory worker, captured the initial photograph of the Loch Ness "monster."
In April 1933, hotel manager Aldie McKay sparked a global frenzy when she claimed to have spotted a colossal creature resembling a whale near the shore.
Despite numerous alleged sightings, hoaxes, extensive searches, and expeditions, the mystery persists. The former hotel of McKay in Drumnadrochit has now been transformed into the Loch Ness Centre, a state-of-the-art facility worth $1.8 million. Just last August, hundreds of enthusiasts gathered at the loch for the largest monster hunt in half a century. Not surprisingly, the results were inconclusive.
Brushes with the occult
Despite the dull Tuesday afternoon, with the steel-gray sky mirroring the restless ripples on the loch's surface and anorak-clad day-trippers casually moving from worn-out tearooms to souvenir shops, Loch Ness surpasses the stereotypical tourist trap image.
Many find it amusing or unimpressive when they take a detour on their trip to the Isle of Skye or Cairngorms National Park.
Nevertheless, there is truly an eerie folklore in this area. It ranges from the Irish monk Saint Columba expelling a sea serpent from the River Ness in the 6th century to the devilish actions of English occultist Aleister Crowley at Boleskine House on the southeastern side of the loch. The house was later owned by Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin, but sadly was devastated by fire in 2015. It is currently undergoing refurbishment and is occasionally open for tours.
And thats not to mention the animated corpses that a hapless local minister is said to have had to return to their graves in Boleskine churchyard in the 17th century.
The "surgeon's photographs" of 1934 are the most famous images of the Loch Ness Monster -- although they were later exposed as a hoax.
Keystone/Getty Images
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Of men and monsters
However, the monster in the public's imagination remains unparalleled by any other legend. Adrian Shine, an amateur naturalist and the founder of the Loch Ness Project research group, has devoted a remarkable fifty years of his life to scientifically exploring the largest lake in the UK by volume since 1973.
In recent times, he has reduced his involvement in public events. Nevertheless, he still plays a significant role as the narrator in the video guide of the new multimedia exhibition at the center. With his elegant white mane and magnificent beard, he resembles a cross between Rasputin and Santa Claus.
He has not only inspired and guided generations of Nessie enthusiasts, but has also become a mentor to them. Among these enthusiasts are individuals like McKenna, who makes a monthly three-hour journey from Edinburgh to lead a volunteer hunt, and Steve Feltham, who has been residing in a caravan next to the loch since 1991.
Describing the community of Loch Ness enthusiasts, McKenna exclaims, "It's a truly extraordinary extended family." His love for the project is evident in every word he speaks. McKenna considers Shine's guidance during his fieldwork in the Highlands as one of the most remarkable experiences he has ever had. "To have someone who is so passionate and motivated to share that passion with others is truly phenomenal," expresses McKenna.
What lies beneath
This is the ultimate revelation. Those pursuing Nessie are not, as commonly believed, daydreamers engaging in a futile struggle against rationality and practicality. What we encountered at Loch Ness is a society of environmental scientists, brought together by their passion for understanding the natural world and their fascination with life's infinite enigmas - both earthly and philosophical.
Not a single person we spoke to is convinced that a multi-humped serpent or long-necked plesiosaur splashes in the depths. However, the dedication to investigation remains deep and heartfelt. "There is a strong part of me that believes there is a monster out there," declares Alistair Matheson, the skipper of the Loch Ness Project, who takes guests out on cruises equipped with sonar technology. "The interpretation of the monster varies from person to person. Personally, I believe there is a mystery here, and that is what I firmly stand by."
No ordinary lake
Alan McKenna on the steps of the Loch Ness Centre, formerly Nessie spotter Aldie McKay's hotel.
According to McKenna, the enigmatic nature of Loch Ness implies that whatever resides within it does not adhere to conventional norms. He asserts that individuals continue to witness inexplicable phenomena, which he believes warrants investigation. McKenna expresses that even if it is eventually determined that these occurrences can be attributed to natural happenings, their pursuit is still driven by their passion for the subject.
Loch Ness is far from being an ordinary lake as it never freezes over, defying its wintry temperatures. This is thanks to the thermocline effect, where cooler water sinks and is replaced by warmer water from below. Consequently, the lake experiences shifting layers of water at various temperatures, giving rise to massive underwater waves. These waves form a surface current that can carry logs and other debris against the wind. Interestingly, this phenomenon often leads to mistaken sightings of a creature's tail or neck swimming against the current.
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Water mirages
Occasional water spouts, whirling columns of mist and air, can sometimes resemble the thrashing neck of a beast when the water is calm and it is difficult to gauge their size. McKenna vividly remembers his interaction with one such water spout: "To my right, I heard a tremendous splash, although I was unable to capture it on film. Nevertheless, what I did manage to capture was the tremendous spray emanating from the water."
Too cold for reptiles
It was Adrian Shine who shattered his illusion and revealed its terrestrial source. However, as McKenna states, "Loch Ness is incredibly captivating, capable of conjuring these optical illusions. The entire location is quite perplexing."
According to Shine's video at the exhibition, the well-known humps of Nessie are typically the result of boat wakes. When large boats navigate through narrow, deep lakes like Loch Ness, they produce a specific phenomenon known as a Kelvin wake. These ripples resemble bumps when observed from certain angles, such as the shoreline.
The notion of a dinosaur-like creature inhabiting the loch was dismissed many years ago. A scientific study has revealed that there is no reptile DNA in the water, and the extreme coldness of the environment makes it unfit for such a creature's survival. While mammals might have a better chance, the absence of thriving plant life and the limited food chain in the dark waters pose significant challenges for any sizable creature.
Adrian Shine sailing out on his beloved loch in 2016.
Russell Cheyne/Reuters
Fish and eels
The loch is believed to be connected to the sea and various rivers, leading to the popular theory that the monster could be a marine animal like a seal or a whale passing through.
Another set of theories revolve around fish, according to Shine. One possibility is sturgeon mistakenly entering from the sea, however, they would not be able to find a mate for reproduction. There is also the suggestion of artificially introduced catfish, but the water temperature is too cold for them to reproduce successfully. In a 2019 study, a significant amount of eel DNA was discovered, adding weight to the theory that Nessie is an oversized eel. However, this theory has also faced its share of debunkings.
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Hunt technology
Researchers have examined core samples collected from the lake bed, providing insights into 12,000 years of sediment. These samples reveal evidence of coal burning during the industrial revolution as well as radiation resulting from atomic testing in the Pacific. In the 1980s, a fleet of research vessels systematically surveyed the loch, utilizing advanced sonar technology at the time, effectively mapping the submerged landscape.
Echo sounding enables Matheson to measure the depth of the loch during his boat excursions, while hydrophones, also known as underwater microphones, greatly assist McKennas endeavors.
"Without a submarine or underwater drone, our options are quite restricted," he explains. "However, our reliable hydrophone serves as a valuable tool. Although we lack visual observation capabilities, we certainly possess exceptional auditory perception."
Dont stop believing
Look closer. You might just spot something.
Andy Buchanan/AFP/Getty Images
The highly anticipated monster quest that captivated international audiences this past August is slated for a comeback, according to McKenna and the Loch Ness Centre team. There are hopes that this event will become an annual occurrence, backed by increased funding in research and technology.
In the meantime, the Loch Ness Exploration group convenes on a monthly basis in the picturesque loch, welcoming individuals of all beliefs - believers, skeptics, and agnostics alike. Detailed information can be found on the public Facebook page. While definitive proof of the monster's existence remains elusive, its existence also cannot be disproven. This inherent uncertainty fuels the unwavering determination of believers.
That is the mystery of Loch Ness. In a tranquil afternoon, where the clouds lazily drift overhead, the verdant hills sway and the calm, earthy waters gently kiss the shore, guests have the opportunity to uncover fragments of our world and discover profound insights about themselves.