Unveiling Taiwan's Enigmatic Power Plant: A Transformation into an Art Haven

In a tranquil village on a secluded Taiwanese island, only a short distance from mainland China, scooters speed by an inconspicuous building that has quietly stood for many years, attracting little attention.

To the inhabitants of Beigan, a part of the remote Matsu archipelago, this structure serves as the gateway to an abandoned thermal power plant from the Cold War era. Hidden deep within a mountain, it remains largely unknown to the public due to its restricted status as designated by Taiwan's military.

That all changed in late September when, for the first time in almost 50 years since its commissioning, the plant was opened to the public. This happened as part of the Matsu Biennial, where the facility was transformed into a futuristic cyberpunk art space. The objective of this installation is to illuminate Matsus history as a military outpost, primed for a potential but yet unrealized war.

Many features of the plant, which closed in 2010, remain intact.

YI.ng Lighting Design

The Beigan Power Plant, also known as Jun Hun or "Army Soul," was built by the Taiwanese army division. It started operating in 1975 and played a crucial role in the local economy until its closure in 2010. A recent article by the state-run Matsu Daily stated that it had a profound impact on the lives of the island's residents.

After their defeat in the Chinese Civil War against Mao Zedong's communists, the nationalist Kuomintang (KMT) forces retreated to Taiwan in 1949. They maintained control over the Kinmen and Matsu archipelagos, located far from Taiwan's capital, Taipei, but near the mainland China shores. These islands have been overshadowed by the threat of war for decades, with sporadic bombardments from the Chinese People's Liberation Army occurring between the 1950s and 1979.

A dance that brought solace to Taiwan during its most desolate moment makes a triumphant comeback on stage. In order to safeguard a fresh power plant from bombardment, the KMT delved deep into the rugged mountains of Matsus and constructed it within a hidden military tunnel. This strategic move not only enabled the facility to produce electricity, but also provided a refuge for residents during air raids. With a gradual thaw in cross-strait relations as the new millennium commenced, the plant was decommissioned and has since remained as a reminder of the Cold War era.

Art in the heart of Matsu

The Beigan Power Plant, after undergoing a remarkable transformation, now serves as the prime location for the Matsu Biennial. This prestigious event, taking place until November 12, showcases captivating artworks that delve into the rich heritage, distinctive cultural identity, and historical military significance of the outlying islands. Leading into the exhibition is a narrow tunnel adorned with industrial lamps, emitting a comforting and inviting glow.

Upon their arrival at the control room that overlooks the engine room, they are greeted by a solemn ambiance illuminated by a series of red lights delineating the area's boundaries. The power generators themselves are enhanced by the projection of orange lights, further emphasizing the weathered metal of the machinery.

The atmospheric lighting was designed to transport visitors back in time.

YI.ng Lighting Design

In a joint interview with CNN, the lighting designers Annie Chu and Liu Ping-yi discussed their intent behind the art installation. They explained that the placement of the lamps and the use of cool colors were carefully chosen to create the illusion that the power plant is still functioning. Liu emphasized the significance of the power plant as the heart of Matsu that continues to beat, with the generators symbolizing its essence.

Matsu and Kinmen, facing continuous hostility from the other side of the strait, were subjected to military rule for over thirty years until 1992, long after martial law ended in other parts of Taiwan. This period of time imposed stringent regulations on various aspects of daily life, including curfews and tightly restricted movements. The inhabitants were even forbidden from possessing basketballs or illuminating their residences at night to avoid attracting enemy attention.

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Liu expressed, "By utilizing lighting, we aim to transport viewers to the past, enabling them to reflect upon the intense atmosphere and scarcity of resources in Matsu." Accompanying this captivating visual display, sound artist and composer Wang Yu-jun has crafted an audio experience that blends the thunderous roar of power generators, the humming of electrical currents, and melodic piano music.

Visitors enter the installation via a narrow, dimly-lit tunnel built into the mountainside.

YI.ng Lighting Design

The installation aims to honor the employees of the power plant who experienced hearing damage from prolonged exposure to loud noise. Wang stated that by replicating the deafening sound, the installation pays tribute to their dedication.

Despite never having governed Taiwan, Beijing has persistently asserted its ownership over the island and has not dismissed the possibility of using force to acquire it. In recent times, it has escalated its economic, military, and diplomatic pressure on Taiwan, regularly deploying fighter jets into the island's air defense identification zone.

During September, there was a significant increase in China's deployment of over 100 warplanes in close proximity to Taiwan within a span of 24 hours. This prompted Taiwan's defense ministry to appeal to Beijing to halt its continuous military provocations.

However, despite the heightened tensions in the Taiwan Strait region, the creators of the Beigan Power Plant installation on Matsus Island maintained that their work was not influenced by politics. Instead, they emphasized that their main objective was to "revisit" the historical significance of the area.

The Matsu Biennial runs through Nov. 12, 2023.