Unveiling Istanbul's Ancient Secrets: Step into the Timeless Magic of a 500-Year-Old Hamam

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After being closed to the public for over a decade, the exquisite Zeyrek Çinili Hamam has recently reopened. Situated in Istanbul's Zeyrek neighborhood, on the European side of the Bosporus, near the historic Fatih district, this bathhouse was constructed in the 1530s by Mimar Sinan. Sinan served as the chief architect for renowned Ottoman sultans such as Suleiman the Magnificent.

The term "Çinili" translates to "tiled" in Turkish, emphasizing the hamam's main architectural element. The bathhouse was adorned with numerous vibrant blue Iznik tiles throughout its operation for five centuries.

Having served primarily as a hamam for the public but briefly transforming into a saddlery and storeroom in the late 1700s, the hamam had severely deteriorated by its closure in 2010. The walls were plagued by mold, and the original Iznik tile coverings were completely absent.

The Çinili Hamam, which had been closed for 13 years, is set to reopen on September 30. Initially, it will serve as an exhibition venue for the Istanbul Biennial in 2022. However, starting from March 2024, it will undergo a full revitalization and resume its role as a public bath, featuring separate sections for men and women.

Digging up the past

The hamam will undergo a complete renovation, and a modern art space will be created underneath the arches of the Byzantine cistern, where water once flowed through its brass taps. Additionally, a new museum will be established to showcase the building's rich history, and an urban garden filled with laurel trees will be added. This restoration project is the second significant undertaking by The Marmara Group, a real estate development company that acquired the property in 2010.

Unusual hexagonal panels feature on the walls of the men's hot room.

Sıtkı Kösemen

"When we bought the hamam, we didnt know any of the stories behind it. But in Zeyrek, wherever you dig, you find something," says Koza Yazgan, the projects creative director.

In the men's section, we came across rectangular tiles that were distinct from the typical hexagonal ones. These tiles adorned the wall and featured a Farsi poem with unique verses on each tile. Upon translating and researching them, we discovered that they had been relocated from their original placement by Sinan. The hamam, initially adorned with approximately 10,000 tiles, now only retains a handful. Many were misplaced, some were stolen, and others suffered damage due to fires and earthquakes.

In the late 19th century, the Marmara Group sold tiles to foreign museums. They have traced many of these tiles to private collections and museums around the world, including London's V&A Museum. At the hamam, a team of archaeologists and historians assisted these institutions in determining the origin of their Iznik tiles.

Regarding the Farsi tiles, Yazgan stated, "Instead of leaving them where we found them, we made the decision to display them in the museum."

The Çinili Hamams museum in Turkey, designed by renowned German firm Atelier Brückner, will exhibit a fascinating collection of Roman, Ottoman, and Byzantine artifacts discovered during the restoration. These artifacts range from ancient coins to intriguing graffiti depicting foreign ships.

Visitors can explore a variety of diverse items, formerly utilized by previous hamam patrons, such as gleaming mother-of-pearl footwear known as nalin.

Additionally, an entire museum floor will be exclusively dedicated to the extraordinary Iznik tiles of the hamam. The highlight of this display is a cutting-edge augmented reality (AR) presentation, which takes you back to the bathhouse during the time of Mimar Sinan. Through digital technology, the display incorporates the vibrant turquoise-tiled walls, offering a glimpse of their grandeur.

Beautiful, inside and out

Yazgan deemed it essential to embark on this commendable endeavor of resurrecting what has been lost to the ravages of time. "Given the significant transformations the city has undergone in the past two decades, safeguarding these invaluable landmarks holds greater significance now than ever before. Failure to do so would result in their irrevocable demise," she affirms.

The Zeyrek Çinili Hammam was originally build in the 1530s.

Murat Germen

Though its tiered timber houses initially sprung up around the wealthy 12th-century Pantokrator Monastery - now Zeyrek Mosque - Zeyrek is a distinctly working-class district today.

The streets of Zeyrek are bustling with the vibrant spice and meat markets, infusing the air with delightful aromas. Amidst this lively atmosphere, the restaurants exude the delicious fragrance of homemade perde pilavı, a delectable chicken, grapes, and rice dish originating from the less affluent eastern region of Turkey.

In stark contrast to the popular tourist attractions in the nearby Ayasofya neighborhood, such as Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace, Zeyrek, a UNESCO-listed area of Istanbul, remains largely untouched by foreign visitors.

The streets of Zeyrek are filled with noise, but within the spacious 30,000-square-foot hamam, peace awaits.

To ward off any negative energies, a kem göz (evil eye) hangs from the front door. The oak door, reminiscent of its appearance 500 years ago, is solid and weighty. However, it is still fresh and fragrant, carrying the scent of freshly cut wood.

After passing the threshold, visitors proceed through a sequence of three rooms, as is customary in Turkish baths. The initial room, known as the "cold" room (although it is actually at room temperature), is called the camekan. Here, guests are invited to disrobe and unwind, reclining on couches while appreciating the architectural marvels and savoring hot Turkish tea or coffee.

The next area is the cozy room - a comfortable seating area where individuals adjust to temperatures of approximately 30 degrees Celsius (86 Fahrenheit). The final space is the steamy hararet, heated to 50 degrees Celsius (122 Fahrenheit), and includes a smooth marble slab.

Yazgan explains, "Here, you rest on the göbek taşı - the belly stone - and unwind. It is a space for cleansing, both spiritually and physically... an hour to escape from worldly matters." Attendants dressed in robes cleanse and massage their reclining customers in this area.

The Çinili Hamam seamlessly combines Ottoman expertise with minimalist design, providing a perfect sanctuary for relaxation. Scandinavian-inspired wooden cabinets, lockers, and door stops prevent the modern amenities from appearing sterile.

The domed ceilings feature glass stars, a distinctive Ottoman hamam element, allowing a gentle shimmer of natural light without overwhelming dazzle. The hamam beautifully showcases original Ottoman features, such as sections of brickwork, Sinans structural enhancements, and vibrant Iznik tiles, which enhance the space's serene ambiance.

Coming back to life

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Murat Germen

Initially, when the bathing rooms of the hamams are still dry, the Çinili Hamam will hold a unique contemporary art exhibition featuring specially commissioned works that explore the themes of ruin, history, and healing - three words that perfectly capture the essence of the place.

After the exhibition concludes in March 2024, the baths will be filled with water and restored to their original purpose. Yazgan explains that the Zeyrek Çinili Hamam will faithfully recreate the time-honored traditions of Ottoman bathing rituals.

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Instead of offering Swedish massages and scented oils, there will be rooms with high temperatures and humidity, chiropractic treatments that crack joints, and massages using bubbles, where clouds of lather are gently scrubbed into the skin.

However, Yazgan emphasizes one key difference in the 21st century that sets Çinili apart from Turkey's traditional hamams.

In hamams, the design of the men's section tends to be more grandeur and elevated. It showcases a plethora of embellished vaulted ceilings, known as muqarnas, along with intricate tilework. However, we will implement a system where each gendered section will have designated rotating days, ensuring that everyone gets the opportunity to relish both sides. Embark on a fascinating journey, exploring the hidden gems of the Mediterranean in Turkey, aboard a boat.

A microcosm of Istanbul

The refurbished hamam will bring visitors to Istanbul's largely overlooked Zeyrek district.

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The Marmara Group believes that the newly restored hamam has the potential to transform the neighborhood of Zeyrek into a cultural tourism hotspot by utilizing its historic sites effectively. With the hamam's pristine and unoccupied chambers, it may be difficult to imagine them bustling with people. Similarly, the garden, where a thin layer of shrubbery barely conceals the raw goat legs on display in the butchers shops, appears slightly out of sync with its surroundings.

"Local shopkeepers are even considering whether to sell soaps or peshtemals, the traditional Ottoman towels. They're also contemplating creating a Zeyrek map to guide hamam guests to other attractions in the area or historical restaurants," Yazgan explains.

There is a plethora of activities to enjoy in the vicinity including visiting the Zeyrek Mosque, the impressive Roman Aqueduct of Valens, and the magnificent Süleymaniye Mosque, which is considered Mimar Sinan's masterpiece. All of these attractions are just a short 15-minute walk away.

Yazgan explains that the hamam, with its museum-like atmosphere, the opportunity for relaxation, and its rich historical significance, serves as a miniature representation of Istanbul itself.

Its certainly set to be the only place in the city where you can learn something new, have an AR experience, drink a cup of coffee, get undressed in public - and still feel relaxed when you come out.