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Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox, is renowned for its association with the color green. The "Green Monster," the towering outfield wall that has been a part of the park since its opening in 1912, has become synonymous with Fenway Park. The park and its iconic wall are painted in a distinct shade of green, which was even made available to the public by US paint company Benjamin Moore.
Another surprising green aspect of Fenway, the iconic baseball venue, is the existence of a farm on its rooftop. What was once an empty black rubber roof now houses Fenway Farms, a roughly 5,000-square-foot rooftop garden area. Located on the third floor behind the third baseline, farmers from Green City Growers plant, harvest, and maintain the garden on a daily basis.
With 2,400 square feet of growing space, the beds at Fenway Park's rooftop farm have the ability to cultivate a wide range of crops, from asparagus to zucchini. According to Chris Grallert, president of Green City Growers and a local farmer with fond memories of attending Red Sox games as a child, this concept of supporting local agriculture is not new. In fact, back in 1920, downtown Boston ranked fifth in the nation for the value of its crops and produce. Surrounding communities also boasted their own local markets and gardens. Grallert expresses his excitement at the opportunity to contribute to the revitalization of the local food production system by having a rooftop farm at Fenway Park.
An aerial view of Fenway Park shows Fenway Farms in the foreground, against a backdrop of the Boston skyline.
Bob Crowley/CNN
A bountiful harvest
In 2014, the Red Sox organization collaborated with Green City Growers and Recover Green Roofs to install artificial turf on the existing roof. Green City then developed a modular growing system on top of the turf using lined milk crates to cultivate crops. According to Grallert, the farm was operational by Major League Baseball's Opening Day in 2015.
"This is not a revolutionary concept. It has been practiced for thousands of years. We're not embarking on a mission to the moon," he explains. "All we require is sunlight, water, soil, drainage, and fertility - the fundamental necessities of any agricultural system. We can successfully grow any garden-variety crops on the ground. We're simply adapting that system to a rooftop setting."
Chris Grallert, president of Green City Growers, has been a farmer and Red Sox fan all his life.
Bob Crowley/CNN
As a seasonal garden, farmers start prepping at Fenway in March and can go as long as December, depending on the weather.
During late August, as the summer season comes to a close, the farm is abundant with a variety of vegetables. Eggplants, cherry tomatoes, carrots, onions, various types of peppers, beets, leafy greens like kale and arugula, as well as herbs such as basil flourish on the farm. Once the peppers are harvested, another crop suitable for the fall season will be planted in their place.
Grallert explains, "We can yield anywhere between 4,000 to 6,000 pounds of fresh produce per year, depending on the crops we choose to cultivate." To optimize the use of available space, the team refrains from planting larger crops like sweet corn, pumpkins, or watermelon, he further adds.
The farm is completely organic, avoiding the use of harsh chemicals. Instead, white mesh cloths are used to protect certain fruit and vegetable beds from pests. Additionally, an efficient irrigation system runs through every row of planters, delivering a precise amount of water to each individual milk crate based on the specific needs of the plants being grown.
Farm to kitchen in 100 feet
Proximity plays a key role when it comes to sourcing. Within close distance, Chef Ron Abell and his team operate a range of restaurants and concessions at Fenway. In these culinary establishments, the produce that graces the plates is sourced from the farm situated just a stone's throw away.
Abell, the senior executive chef at Fenway Park for 17 years, emphasizes the unrivaled freshness of the food, since there is no need for transportation. According to him, there are three primary growing seasons at the park - spring, with radishes, baby lettuces, and strawberries; summer, with heirloom squash, zucchinis, tomatoes, and peppers; and fall, his preferred season which hopefully coincides with the Red Sox making it to the playoffs. As the year progresses, the offerings on the menu for the ballpark restaurants, luxury boxes, and concession stands evolve accordingly.
The produce cultivated at Fenway Farms remains incredibly local, finding its way directly into the kitchens of the baseball stadium to satisfy the fans. In this instance, executive sous chef Danielle Morgan expertly assembles a vibrant salad using freshly harvested ingredients from the farm.
Abell explains that they adopt a minimalist approach when using the farm's products. They refrain from excessive manipulation and instead allow the products to shine in their natural state.
Fenway Farms has faced challenges over the years, particularly in regard to quantity, according to Abell. In one season, there was an excessive amount of radishes, but after eight seasons, they have continued to learn and improve. During the winter off-season, they use this time to plan for the following year.
Grallert states that Fenway Farms' harvest results in a roughly 20% decrease in the amount of produce the ballpark needs to purchase each year. He mentions that the chef and food service staff are actively involved in choosing which crops to grow and how much of each crop to grow. Additionally, they even come to the farm to personally harvest fresh produce for the kitchen.
However, the timing of the harvest does not always align with the baseball schedule. To ensure that the produce lasts, Chef Abell and his staff have to come up with creative solutions. "We cannot predict what Mother Nature will provide us with, or the schedule of the teams, or the catering events that we have," Abell explains. "So, we have to find a balance in utilizing the produce effectively. We will pickle some, turn some into puree, freeze certain items, but inevitably, there will be an excess."
Anything additional, in addition to the produce from a dedicated smaller area of cultivation at the nearby Vineyard Vines deck, is generously donated to a local charity called Lovin Spoonfuls. This remarkable food rescue organization strives to combat food waste by rescuing fresh and nutritious food and distributing it to local meal programs and social service establishments. Shockingly, it is estimated that almost 20% of households in Massachusetts experience food insecurity.
Haley Bergeron harvests cherry tomatoes in the shadow of iconic Fenway Park.
Samantha Bresnahan/CNN
An education in urban farming
Fenway's previous experience in agriculture becomes apparent, considering that in 2000, John Cumberland, the Red Sox pitching coach, gained significant attention for cultivating 18 beefsteak tomato plants and basil in the bullpen. This unconventional act aimed to break the team's longstanding World Series drought since 1918. Remarkably, their efforts proved fruitful as they secured victory four years later in 2004.
Other MLB stadiums such as Coors Field in Colorado, Petco Park in San Diego, and Oracle Park in San Francisco also feature gardens, although none are as expansive as the one at Fenway. Fenway Farms, though one of the most prominent, is just one of over 200 gardens and farms operated by Green City Growers, with a staff of 30, since 2008. The Boston Children's Museum even unveiled a miniature version of Fenway Farms last year.
Grallert, who is passionate about farming, notes the enchantment that occurs when people actively participate in the process. "I have personally witnessed this magic and believe that it can happen for anyone," she says. "Therefore, Fenway Farms serves as a compelling example that food can be grown practically anywhere."
In the background, a group of visitors on a guided tour approaches an elevated area that offers a panoramic view of the farm. The exceptional visibility of this urban farm distinguishes it from others. Approximately 500,000 children and adults come into contact with this space annually, according to Green City's estimates.
According to estimates, the introduction of Fenway Farms has not only benefited the ballpark itself, but also contributed to a significant cooling effect of up to 15 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer and insulation during the cold Boston winters.
Visitors to Fenway Park have the opportunity to witness Fenway Farms firsthand. This special feature distinguishes the park from others, as it offers a prime location for agriculture. Approximately 500,000 individuals, including both children and adults, come across Fenway Farms each year, according to Green City estimates.
"There is a growing desire among people to have access to locally grown produce and to engage with the farmers and distributors responsible for it," states Grallert. "By having such a prominently visible garden like Fenway Farms, people can see that this desire is achievable. It has the potential to ignite a new revolution, leading to a transformation in our food system."