Unleashing Creative Rule-Breaker: Discover the Iconic Authenticity of John Waters

Los Angeles exemplifies the essence of an extraordinary American metropolis – affluent, filled with laughter, perhaps lacking refinement, yet buzzing with artificial allure. These vibrant descriptors were penned by John Waters in his 1986 collection of reflections, "Crackpot," as he documented a captivating six-hour expedition through the city.

"Waterss subversive audacity is matched only by his loving treatment of his characters," exhibition curators Jenny He and Dara Jaffe said in a press statement.

Greg Gorman/Academy Museum Foundation

Celebrating his passion for Hollywood Boulevard, the filmmaker and author has become a renowned tourist attraction himself. At 77 years old, John Waters recently received a prestigious star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. This recognition coincides with the unveiling of the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures exhibition "John Waters: Pope of Trash," the largest and most comprehensive retrospective of his work to date. Running until August 2024, this one-of-a-kind tribute showcases over 400 artifacts from Waters' impressive sixty-year career in film, television, literature, and art.

From a young age in Lutherville, Maryland, Waters has always been an exceptional storyteller and entertainer. As a child, he delighted audiences with violent puppet shows for birthday parties and created horror houses for the neighborhood kids in his parents' garage. His journey into filmmaking began when his grandmother gifted him an 8mm movie camera for his 16th birthday.

After a brief stint at NYU, where he was expelled for marijuana use, he returned to his hometown of Baltimore, where he currently resides. There, he gathered a motley crew of unconventional friends and collaborators from the world of film, including Glenn Milstead, who later rose to fame as the iconic drag queen Divine, as well as Mink Stole, Edith Massey, Cookie Mueller, Mary Vivian Pearce, and others.

The cast of "Pink Flamingos," photographed during filming in 1972.

Lawrence Irvine/Warner Bros./Courtesy Academy Museum Foundation

During the 1970s, Waters achieved fame and notoriety with his "trash trilogy" films: "Female Trouble," "Desperate Living," and "Pink Flamingos." These films catapulted him to near-mythical status, earning him nicknames such as the Filth Elder, the Prince of Puke, the Sultan of Sleaze, and the Pope of Trash, bestowed upon him by William S. Burroughs.

After returning from his trip to LA, Waters spoke with CNN and expressed overwhelming gratitude. He compared the Academy Museum exhibition to a scene from "This Is Your Life," a long-running TV series that provided celebrities with a retrospective of their lives. Waters remarked that it felt like everyone who has been a part of his personal and professional life in the past 50 years was present at the exhibition. He described the experience as an incredible whirlwind, still leaving his head spinning.

This dream-like photo challenges traditional perceptions of the male gaze by showcasing a unique blend of production notes, audition fliers, and various props. Among these artifacts are the infamous lethal leg of lamb from the 1994 film "Serial Mom," featuring Kathleen Turner as a murderous matriarch. Additionally, the exhibition presents intriguing relics such as the scratch-n-sniff "Odorama" cards that were distributed during screenings of John Waters' 1981 suburban satire, "Polyester."

Co-curators Jenny He and Dara Jaffe embarked on the exhibition four years ago, procuring numerous items from Wesleyan University in Middletown, Connecticut, where Waters has stored his movie memorabilia since the mid-80s. Whittling down the initial wishlist of Waters paraphernalia from over 1,000 to approximately 400 proved to be a challenging task. "We had to let go of some favorites; we experienced a mix of emotions," Jaffe expressed during a press preview.

"John Waters: Pope of Trash" at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures showcases an exhibition chamber meticulously modeled after a church, serving as a befitting homage to Waters' early masterpieces while also catering to his devout fan base.

Standing at the entrance of the exhibition is a small theater that bears a resemblance to a church. It features stunning stained glass windows depicting Divine and other notable stars. This charming and clever nod pays homage to Waters' previous practice of holding his early film premieres in churches, which turned out to be more financially successful than traditional movie theaters. "I could keep all the money," Waters once revealed in an interview with culture website Flavorwire, reflecting on these screenings.

Despite having a devout Catholic mother, Waters himself does not adhere to any religious beliefs. He remains open-minded, stating, "I don't know, I'm open. I'm simply relaying what others have told me so far. I don't believe in God, but who knows?" Furthermore, he doesn't believe in astrology, jokingly referring to his sign as "Feces." Karma is also not something he subscribes to, as he dryly commented, "Divine would be alive and Marjorie Taylor Greene would get a flat tire every day."

used to reminisce about the days when Mink (Stole) would frequent thrift shops right after Halloween, where she would purchase costumes for a mere 10 cents and proudly sport them throughout the year. The concept of donning Halloween attire on a regular basis, whether as a fairy, princess, or elf, still holds its charm."

However, he has experienced some profound moments. When asked about spiritual experiences, he mentioned how swimming in the ocean on Cape Cod holds a certain spiritual value to him, believing that the ocean is beneficial.

Beyond superstitions, Waters does follow his own rituals. According to his interview with the New York Times, he wakes up promptly at 6 a.m., checks his emails, and reads six or seven newspapers before commencing his writing at 8 a.m. punctually. Additionally, he writes down his daily agenda on a file card, marks off each task as completed, and stores the card away.

Speaking to CNN, Waters, seen here with his star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, claimed, "I excel at embracing what others despise. Should you ever receive a negative critique or be apprehended, count on me to be the first to reach out to you on that very day."

Chris Pizzello/Invision/AP

Describing himself as "extremely organized," Waters possesses a commendable quality for someone who is both a collector and a maximalist. In addition to fake food, books, pulp novels, and contemporary art, Waters' home typically houses an array of personal artifacts, alongside cinematic memorabilia such as the electric chair from "Female Trouble." Divines character in the 1974 film meets her demise in the final scene through a death sentence, and currently, this particular piece can be found on display in the exhibition.

During a press preview for the exhibition, Waters disclosed his desire to acquire a specific item, referred to as Divines "cheater," which is a prosthetic vulva with simulated pubic hair. This unique piece holds significance as Divine often used it to play pranks on airport security personnel by placing it on top of his suitcase while traveling. Unfortunately, someone currently possesses this item and has been unfruitfully attempting to persuade Waters to pay an exorbitant sum for its return.

Enigmatic portraits depict drag queens captivated by their own images.

According to CNN, another iconic piece mentioned is the renowned red fishtail gown worn by Divine in "Pink Flamingos," a highly controversial movie that was banned in multiple countries after its release in 1972. The gown was most likely in a less than desirable condition due to the extensive filming process, and it is uncertain if Divine retained ownership of it by the end.

During the Walk of Fame ceremony on September 18, a car incident occurred nearby, resulting in a fiery blaze and billowing black smoke. This incident seemed appropriate for an event honoring a filmmaker known for challenging conventional Hollywood norms. Notable attendees included old friends Mink Stole and photographer Greg Gorman, as well as Ricki Lake, whose breakthrough role as the curvaceous teen-turned-dance sensation Traci Turnblad was showcased in Waters' 1988 film, "Hairspray."

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A collection of costumes from Waters' "Hairspray," including Traci Turnblad's roach gown.

In the exhibition, Lake showcased her black opera gloves adorned with bejeweled cockroaches as a playful tribute to a scene where her character dons a pink cockroach dress in defiance of her rival, Amber Von Tussle, who accuses her of having insects in her hair. The costume, designed by Van Smith, is also highlighted in the display.

When asked about how his movies have influenced fashion, both in the industry and personal style of fans, Waters highlighted the presence of a gown inspired by "Pink Flamingos" in Balenciagas 2022 Spring-Summer collection. This gown was later worn by Isabelle Huppert, Waters' favorite actor, to the Met Gala. Waters himself is considered a style icon, often seen wearing Comme des Garçons and maintaining his signature skinny mustache, drawn on with Maybelline Velvet Black pencil.

As for his beauty routine, Waters has been a loyal user of La Mer products for years, despite his complaints about the high prices. However, even a luxury skincare brand like La Mer was not safe from the John Waters treatment. One summer, after finishing a 16-ounce tub of Crème de la Mer worth $2,675, he repurposed it by storing bacon grease in it and gifted it to a friend as an art project.

Waters has remained authentic throughout his career, refusing to conform for the sake of success. His commitment to challenging societal norms has been fruitful, as people are now more open to self-irony. "I haven't changed much; it's just that society seems more willing to laugh at itself now, which is what I've been doing from the start," Waters said. "I've always enjoyed mocking the conventions of the world I inhabit. Breaking a few rules is how you have fun."

Waters is consistently adhering to his daily writing routine, without exception. Despite his return from LA, he promptly resumed his work at 8 a.m. the following morning. Currently, he is focused on creating his annual Christmas show, spanning 17 dates and commencing in Seattle this November. Additionally, Waters is involved in the upcoming film adaptation of his debut fiction novel, "Liarmouth," which was secured for production last year. This project marks Waters' first film since "A Dirty Shame" in 2006, a movie centered around a group of sex addicts with unconventional desires. Furthermore, he expressed his desire to pen yet another novel.

With a chuckle, Waters acknowledged the allure of resting on his accomplishments. Nevertheless, he emphasized that such a notion made him even more apprehensive. During his time in LA, he declared, "I haven't finished yet!"