Unforeseen Destiny: A Chance Encounter of 3 Japanese Chefs in Sydney, Reuniting in Hong Kong after 15 Years
15 years ago, 3 Japanese chefs crossed paths in a Sydney bar, only to go their separate ways Serendipity struck in Hong Kong, reuniting them to create Enishi, a new teppanyaki sensation, born from their shared passion for culinary exploration
Shun Sato and Toru Takano, two Japanese chefs, find it difficult to recall the specifics of their first meeting when prompted. "I was in Australia from 2005 to 2014, so it must have been sometime during that period," Sato inquires his friend.
"Perhaps in 2009 or 2010?" Takano shrugs uncertainly, letting out a chuckle.
"I was at a bar in Sydney, having a drink after work, when I came across another Japanese guy. I greeted him and asked if he was also a Japanese person working in the area. It turns out, he was a chef too. We had a lot to talk about," Sato recounts, speaking about the beginning of their friendship in Australia.
Takano adds helpfully: "I dont remember why we were at that bar."
The two tilt their heads, trying unsuccessfully to conjure memories of the night.
Ami Hamasaki-Takano, Taro's wife, rolled her eyes and raised her hand before chiming in, "I recall that moment. I had been drinking with friends at the bar and had too much to drink. I ended up calling Toru to come pick me up."
Several years later, they crossed paths once again, this time in Hong Kong. They quickly became close friends and later partnered to establish Enishi, a new teppanyaki restaurant in the city. The name commemorates their bond, representing a "destined encounter" or "fate" in Japanese.
United by a desire to see the world
Shun Sato, second from the right, traveled to Sydney when he was 19 years old to work at Yoshii, a two-Michelin-star restaurant.
Courtesy Shun Sato
Sato's passion for the culinary arts is deeply rooted in his family - his father is the owner of an izakaya bar in Sendai, Japan, and Sato has been involved in the restaurant since he was young.
While Sato has a great love for Japanese cuisine, he has always aspired to expand his skills and knowledge beyond the borders of his home country. His journey led him to work at a French restaurant in Tokyo at the age of 19, and eventually he was presented with an opportunity to work at Yoshii, a prestigious two-Michelin-star Japanese omakase restaurant in Sydney, through a friend in the industry.
"I was pretty young. I could always come back to Japan anytime. Going overseas, it was better to go at a young age," says Sato.
So he moved to Sydney and became the sous chef at Yoshii.
From a young age, Hamasaki had longed to live in a foreign country. At 19, she took a job as a server at a teppanyaki restaurant in Kobe, where the head chef eventually began mentoring her in the kitchen.
"Since I was a child, I've always had a desire to travel abroad and immerse myself in new cultures," she explains.
"Being a chef allowed me the freedom to work anywhere, but finding authentic Japanese teppanyaki restaurants outside of Japan was a challenge. Many of them prioritized the entertainment aspect of teppanyaki. When Hamasaki was offered a position at a teppanyaki restaurant on the Gold Coast of Australia in 2009, she accepted."
Takano, on the other hand, had always wanted to go down under before even getting into the culinary industry.
"My dream was to go to Australia," says the chef.
"After graduating, I lacked cooking skills and had no idea how to get to Australia. It wasn't until ten years later that I finally found a solution: I decided to learn how to cook and become more knowledgeable about Japanese cuisine, with the goal of using these skills to secure a job in Australia."
"Two different dreams became one dream," says Takano.
Determined, he finally got an offer to work at a teppanyaki restaurant in Australia in 2009 - the same one as Hamasaki.
The meet-ups and the breakup
Ami Hamasaki and Toru Takano, now married, met while working at a teppanyaki (Japanese grill) restaurant in Australia.
Toru Takano
"When we initially met, he had claimed to be just a year older than I am. That turned out to be untrue. He's actually eleven years older," Hamasaki shares with CNN Travel, as her husband flashes an embarrassed smile. It didn't take long before they started dating.
"On our first date, we went to a musical in Brisbane because I wanted to watch Cats," she recalls.
"He said he loved musicals, too. Once the music started, he started sleeping. I was super upset."
But those cheeky fibs didnt deter her.
"(Thinking back), that was quite funny actually. He is a really kind guy so I liked him very much," says Hamasaki.
The dates eventually turned into holidays, and the couple traveled to various Australian cities to explore. It was on one of their trips to Sydney that they encountered Sato at a sports bar. Despite the friendly atmosphere, they didn't immediately form a close friendship.
"I didn't stick around for too long," Sato explains. "I was already feeling a bit tipsy before Takano even showed up. Plus, I had to work the next day. We connected on Facebook and promised to reach out when we were in each other's cities."
They maintained some contact on social media, but eventually ended up going their separate ways due to fate.
Sato moved to London to work for another restaurant.
Hamasaki accepted a job offer in Dubai.
Takano stayed on the Gold Coast.
The couple assumed the move meant the end of their relationship.
"It was like, I enjoyed it very much but bye-bye," Hamasaki says of their farewell.
Destined for Dubai
This elevated version of a spring roll is one of the signature dishes served at the trios restaurant in Hong Kong, Enishi.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
But the separation only lasted for a year before Takano also found a job in Dubai. He didnt tell his ex-girlfriend he was coming, opting instead to show up out of the blue.
"I was so surprised," says Hamasaki.
Though Takano says hotel executives invited him to work in Dubai, his wife has another take on the situation: "He just wanted to chase me."
Takano admits that her presence certainly sweetened the deal.
"If Ami wasnt in Dubai, I would not be in Dubai and wouldnt accept the offer."
After spending just eight months in the UAE city, he relocated once more for a job opportunity in Monaco. Despite the challenges of a long-distance relationship, they were determined to make it work. "Our communication was limited to Skype and email," recalls Hamasaki, who spent an additional year in Dubai before returning to Japan to take a break from the predominantly male-oriented restaurant industry.
"I was doing nails," Hamasaki chuckles, her husband visibly surprised by this new information.
I pushed open the door and saw these two there
Toru Takano prepares a dish at Enishi restaurant in Hong Kong.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
In 2016, Takano was invited to helm the kitchen at a teppanyaki restaurant in Hong Kong and asked Hamasaki to join him.
She did just that and the pair got married a year later.
Then, one night that same year, a familiar scene took place in Hong Kong.
After work, I visited a restaurant owned by a friend. When I opened the door, I was shocked to see two unexpected faces," Sato recalls. Unbeknownst to Takano and Hamasaki, Sato had moved to Hong Kong in 2015. The three of them formed a close friendship, with Sato and Takano developing a unique bond.
"We discuss a variety of topics, but work is our main focus as we share a strong work ethic. We also exchange life stories and often get together after work for wine," Sato explains.
Having led the kitchens of several restaurants, Sato made the decision to open his own restaurant - Censu - in 2021. The establishment draws inspiration from traditional Japanese izakaya cuisine and the Wabi-sabi philosophy, which celebrates the beauty of imperfection and simplicity.
The idea for Enishi came up during an after-service gathering with Takano.
"Censu was my solo project and I always want to have something with my good bonds," says Sato.
In Enishi, dishes are influenced by the three chefs - as well as their new home city.
Theres a refreshingly modern take on sashimi, as well as a crispy and creamy zucchini flower tempura.
The teppanyaki spring roll with shirasu (whitebait), is a blend of Hong Kong and Japanese culinary traditions. The chefs have also incorporated elements of their hometown into the menu, such as oyster sanbaizu (a rice vinegar, sugar and soy sauce dressing) from Sato's home prefecture, Miyagi, as well as Hamasaki's recipe for niku miso (miso and minced pork sauce) over daikon.
Enishi means destined encounter, or fate.
Noemi Cassanelli/CNN
"Our experiences and stories shape the unique fusion of a teppanyaki restaurant with a French/Western presentation. Many of the dishes we create have roots in our own families," Sato explains. "For instance, the pot rice recipe comes from Toru's mother, and we have used our culinary expertise to refine it for proud presentation."
While the trio collaborates on the menu, the married couple leads the kitchen at Enishi, while Sato devotes most of his time to Censu, just a 10-minute walk away.
Sato still finds it surprising how their lives took a similar path when he met the couple again in another city, reminiscent of their previous encounter in Australia.
The difference this time is that Takano and Sato havent stopped talking since.
"I walk here almost every day during break," says Sato of his Enishi visits.
We spend time together six days a week. I have faith in destiny and always believe that meeting new people or having new experiences will teach you something valuable. Every person is important to me, and I am grateful to have met Toro and Ami on my journey.
