Unconventional Fashion Icons: Harry Styles and Bjork Lead the Rebel Revolution

In 2003, as the British Fashion Councils initiative Newgen celebrated its 10th anniversary, the UK witnessed several significant events that shaped the era. These events included Tony Blair leading Britain's invasion of Iraq, the repeal of legislation banning the promotion of homosexuality by local authorities and schools, and the launch of the groundbreaking social media site Myspace, which revolutionized online connections.

Additional noteworthy events, such as the introduction of online fashion shopping through Net-a-Porter in 2000 and the implementation of tuition fees for university students in 1998, are also featured in the Design Museums new exhibition, "Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion". Through these historical markers, the exhibition highlights the profound shifts that have occurred in London's fashion scene over the past three decades. What was once a lackluster showcase of a few designers has now evolved into a globally recognized hub of new talent.

Bjork wearing a Marjan Pejoski swan dresscomplete with egg, laid on the red carpetto the 2001 Academy Awards in Los Angeles.

"Newgen was launched in 1993 in response to the UK's recession," said Rebecca Lewin, co-curator of the exhibition alongside Vogue critic Sarah Mower, in an interview with CNN. "Designers emerging from UK schools believed that job opportunities were limited to fashion houses overseas." As a solution, the British Fashion Council (BFC) decided to support these designers by presenting six young labels to press and buyers at The Ritz during London Fashion Week. This marked the beginning of Newgen.

The first cohort included Lee McQueen, mentioned Lewin, who was a pioneer in the fashion industry. Alexander McQueen's brand, which is now a major success in the British fashion world, served as a sponsor for the show. Although his collection may have been forgotten, his journey reflects the challenges and essence of starting out in London during the early 1990s.

The exhibition features hundreds of pieces from burgeoning designers, many of whom went on to become household names.

The "Rebel" exhibition at the Design Museum features a collection of garments and memorabilia created by 300 designers who were supported by Newgen funding at the early stages of their careers. Included in the exhibit are works by renowned designers such as Grace Wales Bonner, JW Anderson, Kim Jones, Mary Katrantzou, Duro Olowu, Richard Quinn, and Simone Rocha. Additionally, the exhibition includes recreated pieces from Lee McQueen's inaugural collection, curated by his friend and collaborator Simon Ungless. These pieces are accompanied by previously unreleased photographs of Lee, voice recordings, and early media coverage.

Why London loves a rebel

The show delves into the reasons behind the choice of London as a creative hub, exploring the unique spaces that served as inspiration for these creative individuals. The city's vibrant club culture receives special attention, with vintage posters and video footage highlighting its close ties to young designers such as Martine Rose, Charles Jeffreys' LOVERBOY label, and Nasir Mazhar.

Indeed, a handful of designers did not initially start their careers in London. Instead, they followed their pursuit of education by attending esteemed institutions such as Central Saint Martins, University of Westminster, and London College of Fashion. Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai (known as HARRI), originally from India, joined this chase. Similarly, Steven Stokey-Daley, hailing from Liverpool, pursued his passion by attending SS Daleys. Lastly, Marjan Pejoski, from Macedonia, was also driven to attend an institution in London. These three individuals, who respectively received the Newgen award in 2001 and are current recipients, have made a significant impact with their audacious designs. Their creations have been worn by influential figures such as Sam Smith at the Brits, Harry Styles in his Golden music video, and Bjork during her memorable swan moment at the Oscars. A total of nearly 100 captivating looks, including these celebrated designs, are showcased in the exhibition.

Singer Sam Smith seen in a HARRI creation at the BRIT Awards in London, February 2023.

LANDMARK MEDIA/Alamy Stock Photo/Courtesy the Design Museum

Lewin, highlighting the connection to the fashion-forward individuals, emphasized the broader visual impact influenced by newspaper coverage before the rise of Instagram. She also highlighted the element of discovery within the show. "Christopher Kane's captivating neon dresses were crafted from lace, lingerie, and elastic sourced from a market in east London," she elaborated. "If you are familiar with (the area), you may be aware of those stalls, but it might not have crossed your mind to create sensational bodycon dresses. Now that you have witnessed their accessibility, I hope it sparks a newfound sense of potential."

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Moreover, the progression of social media and style blogs marked a pivotal moment in the trajectory of London fashion. According to Lewin, "Before the year 2000, the only means for individuals to stay on top of the latest trends was attending fashion shows or patiently waiting for magazines to hit the shelves. However, with the advent of Style.com as a resource, designers were able to instantly gauge their reach and comprehend the extent of their audience." Lewin further adds that "Social media opened up more avenues for designers to directly communicate and showcase their work. These technological advancements had an immense impact on the industry."

The exhibition features clothing and fashion ephemera from the past 30 years.

Andy Stagg/the Design Museum

The array of garments on display at the show is not only beautiful and innovative, but at times completely out of this world. However, according to the curator, it is not just the stunning clothes that make the exhibition a standout. The curator emphasizes that the broader narratives behind each piece, as well as the various factors that have influenced their creation, are crucial. The curator acknowledges that, like in any other creative industry, changes in the education system and the cost of living have had a profound impact on the way designers operate within a city like London. These designers have challenged the traditional norms of fashion, rebelling against the status quo and striving to create something truly different and better.

The exhibition, titled "Rebel," will be on display at The Design Museum in London until February 11, 2024.