Traditional British sweet under threat from influx of Chinese alternatives
For generations, Rock candy has been an iconic treat along the British coast. However, its future is in jeopardy as affordable Chinese substitutes flood the market, leading to a decline in its availability.
For more than a century, rock candy has been a beloved treat at British seaside destinations. It is so iconic that a famous novel from the 20th century was named after it.
Unfortunately, traditional rock candy makers are facing tough times as they struggle to compete with inexpensive imported alternatives.
Buying a stick of rock at the seaside has been a traditional practice for Brits since the candy became popular in the early 20th century.
In 1938, author Graham Greene referenced the candy in his novel "Brighton Rock" as a metaphor for morality. The protagonist, Ida, compares people's characters to a stick of rock, stating that they remain consistent throughout their lives, just like the words running through the candy.
In fact, the famous letters found in a piece of rock are usually handcrafted by artisans in Blackpool, a seaside resort in Lancashire, northwest England.
Now, the 10 remaining factories in the town are concerned that the industry is at risk due to cheap rock being imported from China, which is threatening their business. The owners of these factories have reached out to the government, requesting that the UK's handmade rock be granted protected status. This would ensure that only candy produced in the country can be labeled as "rock."
"It’s a very recent issue," said David Thorp, director of Stanton & Novelty Confectioners in Blackpool, one of the 10 rock-makers who penned the letter to CNN. "We knew about Chinese sweets before and even sold some ourselves, but they were always unique lollipops or marshmallows. However, when they began producing sticks of rock, we knew we had to take action."
Barmouth, Gwynedd, North Wales / UK
Barmouth, Gwynedd, North Wales / UK
Shutterstock
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Stanton & Novelty creates rock candy for approximately 150 seaside towns across the UK, with each candy featuring the name of a specific town. The business was originally started by Thorp's grandfather in 1969. According to Thorp, the early days were extremely busy as they struggled to keep up with demand.
As time passed, the company had to expand its product line to include lollipops in addition to rock candy in order to remain profitable. Currently, there are fourteen employees working at the factory, including Thorp's parents. Thorp's father has been a dedicated employee at the company for 35 years.
When his grandfather first began, there were more than 30 rock factories in Blackpool. However, according to Thorp, in the past two to three years, eight of these factories have shut down. He predicts that two more may close this year.
Thorp explains that UK factories are struggling to compete on price with Chinese rock, which is being sold for 12-15p ($0.15-$0.19) per stick. Trying to match these prices is unsustainable and economically unviable for the UK factories.
Thorp mentions that Brexit is not the main cause, but he has noticed an increase in ingredient costs since the UK's departure from the EU. This is because a lot of the sugar and glucose they use are sourced from continental Europe. The rising cost of living in the UK, particularly with the surge in energy bills, has added to the challenge.
Looking back on childhood memories, we often reminisce about simpler times filled with joy and innocence.
Almost every Brit associates rock with their childhood.
Almost every Brit associates rock with their childhood.
Neil Hall/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock
For many Brits, a stick of rock is synonymous with childhood trips to the seaside.
Thorp explains that many people associate rock with childhood memories, whether it's their own, their children's, or their grandchildren's.
Despite the fact that most Brits now opt for budget airlines to travel to European destinations for sunny vacations rather than visiting UK beaches, Thorp points out that it was still feasible to earn a living by selling rock. He mentions that a successful summer, Easter, or half-term holiday would always result in increased sales.
People often reminisce about family holidays, even though the way we celebrate holidays has evolved over time.
In Blackpool, creating rock candy is considered a true art form. It involves boiling sugar and glucose with water, then spreading it out on cold slabs to dry while adding coloring.
British foods
British foods
Suzanne Plunkett/CNN
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The different colored batches are pulled into strips while still soft, and then rolled into large cylinder shapes. Workers hand-compose the letters using differently colored candy, while the cylinders are still in their original large form – almost the size of a forearm in diameter.
Workers at Promotional Candy use their expertise to handcraft inch-thick sticks from cylinders of rock, which are then sold. The team, led by owner Jason Evans, has a total of 80 years of experience in the confectionery industry.
According to Thorp, the imported candy from China lacks the intricate lettering found in locally made rock candy, as the necessary expertise is still developing. Despite this, distributors and retailers continue to carry the Chinese candy due to its lower cost compared to the locally produced options.
It's really hard for me to think about closing down because we've been in business for over 55 years. This factory is not just a place of work, it's a part of my family's identity. It would be truly devastating.
Unfortunately, we don't have much hope of staying open.
Making rock by hand requires considerable expertise.
Making rock by hand requires considerable expertise.
The business owners who signed the letter are asking the government to give the same protection to the terms "rock" or "rock stick" as they do for other food and drink products in the UK. This means that items like Cornish pasties, Scotch whisky, Wensleydale cheese, and Melton Mowbray pork pies can only be labeled as such if they are actually made in the specific location they are named after.
The rock-makers are not limiting the candy-making to just Blackpool. They want candy made anywhere in the UK to be eligible, so that more local producers can benefit.
According to Thorp, a stick of rock from the seaside evokes a strong sense of nostalgia that few other products can match. It is considered a part of our national heritage.
Shipping candy from China also has a negative impact on the environment. Anita McAleese, the owner of McAdams Confectionery and a co-signer of the letter, mentioned to CNN that many consumers are unaware that the candy they purchase is actually manufactured in China.
"We really need public awareness to have a fighting chance," she emphasizes.
McAleese's husband established the business back in 1995. She recalls, "It was a booming industry at the time with 18 factories in Blackpool. There wasn't any competition among us as there was plenty of business for everyone." Unfortunately, the number of employees has dwindled from 14 to just six due to the rise of imported rock.
She says, "It’s the retailers looking for the cheapest option. I had one distributor who was probably 50% of my work, and he has gone for the imported rock." Thorp expresses that if the homegrown industry goes under, "It’d be a massive shame."
“Sticks of rock are over 100 years old, and a national treasure. It’s part of our shared culture,” he says.
“I’ll do anything to stop that happening.”
Editor's P/S:
The plight of British rock candy makers is a reflection of a broader trend of globalization and the challenges faced by traditional industries. As inexpensive imported alternatives flood the market, local businesses struggle to compete, resulting in the loss of jobs and a decline in traditional skills. The appeal to the government for protected status highlights the importance of preserving cultural heritage and supporting local economies.
The article also raises environmental concerns associated with the shipping of candy from China. By opting for cheaper imported products, consumers may be inadvertently contributing to increased carbon emissions. Supporting local producers not only ensures the survival of traditional industries but also promotes sustainability by reducing transportation distances. By raising awareness and encouraging informed choices, we can help protect both our cultural heritage and the environment.
