The Côte d'Azur is a captivating destination, exuding sophistication, a joyful atmosphere, and an unparalleled sense of elegance. From Cassis to Menton in the southeast of France, this breathtaking coastline encompasses renowned resorts like Antibes, Cannes, and St Tropez. Additionally, it boasts the mesmerizing city of Nice, the independent principality of Monaco, and the picturesque countryside of Provence.
In the 19th century, the area gained recognition as a popular destination for tourists. English and European aristocracy would gather here during the summer to enjoy the reliably pleasant weather and immerse themselves in high-quality culture.
Even today, this place remains the ideal spot for the affluent to relax. With top-notch sailing, luxurious villas and hotels exuding an exclusive atmosphere, and the opportunity to drive vintage sports cars along its picturesque Mediterranean coastal roads, it's no surprise that the Côte d'Azur continues to captivate after all these years. Its core essence lies in its simplicity, beauty, and timeless charm, which are truly unmatched.
We just use what we have
Soupe au Pistou is made with green vegetables, beans, pasta and potatoes.
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The simplicity of the region is best exemplified by its cuisine, particularly in Nice. Vanessa Massé, the owner of Pure & V, a Michelin-starred restaurant, is deeply knowledgeable about the delights of Niçoise cuisine. She personally visits the market every morning to carefully select the freshest vegetables for her dishes.
"I adore this location," she declares with a smile. "Waking up near the ocean fills me with immense joy, providing me with a moment of serenity before a bustling day. To me, it doesn't feel like work. I visit the market every morning."
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Her love for food shines as she leisurely walks amidst the market stalls bathed in the gentle Mediterranean sunlight, selecting the necessary ingredients for the day to come.
"There's no fuss, no unnecessary complications," she remarks about the cooking style in this region of France. "In Cuisine Niçoise, they certainly emphasize the utilization of local ingredients... for me, it's all about finger food, effortless dishes, and an abundance of flavors."
Thats evident by the impeccable cuisine crafted by her talented chefs, ranging from the delectable Soupe au Pistou, a flavorful blend of green vegetables, beans, pasta, and potatoes, to the delightful Le Fleur de Courgette, a straightforward stuffed courgette flower that is a local favorite. Pair it with freshly caught anchovies straight from the sea, and you have a meal that exemplifies why Nices humble food is adored by so many.
View over the medieval hill town village of Saint Paul de Vence.
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You can feel the light
In addition to the exquisite cuisine, stunning climate, and picturesque coastal towns, the Côte d'Azur possesses yet another essential feature: luminosity.
Bathing the coastline and farmland of Provence, this stunning feature attracted artists seeking to break free from the limits of Paris during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And among the artists, none is more closely associated with the Côte d'Azur than Henri Matisse.
"He arrived in 1917, at the age of 48, which some may consider late in his life. However, he quickly developed a deep affection for the region and resolved to spend the remainder of his days here," Florence Tournier, an art enthusiast, remarks as she strolls through the galleries of the Matisse Museum in Nice.
While the museum is filled with Matisse's greatest works, which capture the radiant sunlight of Niçoise, there is one painting that truly shines. "Storm in Nice," created during Matisse's initial trip, stands out.
According to Tournier, Matisse's first journey south was marred by relentless rain for a whole month. "He was undoubtedly frustrated and contemplated leaving and never returning. However, the following morning, the mistral wind swept away the clouds and a breathtaking light graced the sea and sky. In that moment, Matisse chose to stay for the remainder of his life."
The Côte d'Azur, with its captivating views from the Palais de la Mediterranee (a former hotel), continues to attract art enthusiasts. The painted landscapes that adorn the region have become iconic and easily recognizable.
Matisse's work was instrumental in showcasing the magnificence of the region, but he was not alone in this endeavor. His close companion Picasso, along with renowned artists Renoir, Monet, and Chagall, also flocked here to breathe life into the canvas, illuminating the landscape with their unique artistic perspectives.
"Across the entire Côte d'Azur, one can easily spot the places that have served as inspiration for these artists, serving as both a backdrop and a muse for their various paintings," Tournier explains.
There is a hidden yet mesmerizing artists trail that visitors often overlook, which allows them to witness these inspirations firsthand. This trail encompasses Antibes, Aix-en-Provence, and a brief journey northwest of Nice to Saint Paul de Vence.
Saint Paul de Vence holds significance as it was the place where Chagall dedicated much of his artistic endeavors. From this vantage point, one can gaze upon the valley and witness the exact scenes that he captured on canvas over a century ago.
As Tournier says, "You can feel the light, you can feel the colors, you can be in the footsteps of these artists."
Its a simple pleasure of the French Riviera that brings true joy.
Lavender fields forever.
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Purple fields
The Côte d'Azur's vibrant light was once the main attraction for artists who flocked to this place a century ago. However, nowadays, another ordinary aspect of daily life is captivating visitors in large numbers: Lavender. The expansive and picturesque purple fields scattered throughout Provence have become the perfect subject for Instagram enthusiasts.
Although a few may express concern about the growing influx of visitors, lavender farmer Jean-Pierre Jaubert embraces the sight of tourists wandering through his fields, as it greatly benefits his business.
Lavender blossoms have been an integral aspect of the Southern French identity, just as essential as the radiant sun and sandy shores. Flourishing naturally for centuries, the region has become synonymous with this exquisite flower.
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Speaking in his native French, Jaubert expresses that his family has devoted three centuries to cultivating these fields.
"In my blood, I believe... What could be more exquisite than this?" he remarks, sweeping his hand towards the fields and inhaling the aroma. "The buzz of the bees and the fragrance."
According to Faubert, Provence is a cyclic tale where the artists' allure of light aids in the flourishing of lavender, attracting more nature enthusiasts as visitors. Faubert's farm shop prospers by selling various lavender products, ranging from dried flower bundles to lavender essence. Moreover, lavender is also a key component in the creation of another iconic product of the Côte d'Azur: perfume.
Perfume maker Jessica Buchanan is known for her nose.
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The perfect scent
Just an hour away from Nice lies the town of Grasse, renowned as the perfume capital of the world. In this floral haven, fragrant blossoms, including lavender, flourish abundantly. Established in 1926, Fragonard perfumery stands as a testament to the art of crafting exquisite scents.
At Fragonard, Karina Hidalgo, an employee, reveals that selecting a personal fragrance is not as simple as one might assume.
"When you go to perfumery shops, you would like to try every single bottle," she says. "After three, your nose doesnt smell."
There is, however, a way around this particular issue.
"You inhale the scent of your clothes, your skin, your hair. Whenever you encounter a new fragrance that escapes your olfactory senses, your nose craves familiarity in order to persevere in its ability to perceive scents," Hidalgo remarks, his smile radiating.
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At Fragonard, they can assist you in crafting a tailor-made fragrance that will forever remind you of the Côte d'Azur. Jessica Buchanan, an esteemed perfumer known as a "nose," possesses expert knowledge in creating perfumes. She has undergone extensive training to identify 3,000 essential oils solely by their scent. Reaching this esteemed level allows her to refer to herself as a "nose."
Buchanan instructs, "Take a moment to individually smell each ingredient and jot down some brief observations." Once you have eliminated any excess alcohol by gently shaking the testing paper, you can resume the process, she suggests.
There is a scientific aspect to it, something that resonates with the method of capturing the true essence of this unique region in France.
The French Riviera is an astounding destination, a place that captures an essence of sophistication and preserves a charm and beauty reminiscent of bygone eras. Whether in its cuisine, art, or picturesque landscapes, it is a destination that gratifies contemporary explorers who opt for a leisurely and thorough experience.