The Unforgettable 30-Hour Train Journey That Vanishes in Seconds
Discover the mesmerizing journey on Turkey's Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars This renowned railway route immerses you in breathtaking landscapes and authentic Turkish hospitality Don't miss the hottest ticket in town! (292 characters)
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Turkey serves as the last destination for the renowned Orient Express, one of the most well-known train rides worldwide. However, Turkey's appeal as a top rail destination is further cemented by another journey - the Dogu Express, also known as the Eastern Express in English.
The commuter train from Ankara to Kars has become a popular destination for Turkish influencers in recent years due to its breathtaking eastern scenery and hidden gems. According to travel influencer Berry Romo, who has been living in Turkey for over a decade, the train was once popular among locals and Turkish travelers, but largely undiscovered by foreign tourists.
The growing demand led to the transformation of the commuter service into a tourist route in 2019. The sleeper train, which covers a distance of 1,310 kilometers (814 miles) from Ankara to Kars, with stops for city excursions, has become a popular choice for travelers. However, obtaining tickets can be extremely difficult, as they tend to sell out within minutes according to passengers.
Romo advised, "The key is to monitor the website right at midnight and make the purchase as soon as it refreshes."
According to locals, Turkish travel agencies often purchase bulk tickets to secure spots for their organized tours, resulting in a quick sell-out of individual tickets. These tickets are typically only available for purchase one month prior to the journey, making them highly sought after by the fortunate few who are able to obtain them.
A traveler poses for a selfie with her friends before the Eastern Express departs Ankara.
Umit Bektas/Reuters
Leaving the capital
Ankara may appear less glamorous than Istanbul at first, but as the political center of the country, it is a worthy destination in its own right. Key attractions include the Ataturk mausoleum, the final resting place of modern Turkey's founding father, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.
The complex is separated into four sections, featuring Peace Park with a Turkish flag made of pebble stones encircled by a flower bed, and the Ceremonial Plaza leading to the Hall of Honor, where Ataturk's tomb is located.
Despite Ankara's rapid development after becoming the country's new capital overnight in 1923, there is still a lingering historical charm to be discovered in its old neighborhoods.
Courtesy Elemental Adventure
Hidden within Turkey's ski world is Ulus, the old quarter of the city, where Roman ruins, preserved passageways, and an ancient castle sit atop a hill, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Ulus is home to Sanat Sokağı, also known as Arts Street, where restored Ottoman houses have been transformed into cozy cafes and courtyards filled with charming stalls offering handicrafts and souvenirs from the Ottoman era. For a more modern outing, visit CemModern, a new art gallery housed in a renovated railway depot that showcases global exhibitions. The gallery also hosts diverse cultural events, including movie screenings, group yoga sessions, and design markets.
Travelers often decorate their cabins with string lights, scarves and candles.
Mustafa Kamaci/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images
Stunning vastness
The Dogu Express leaves in the early evening, and as it leaves the art deco Ankara railway station, the view outside the window changes from a city to expansive landscapes. The sleeper cabins have two single bunk beds that can be converted into seats during the day, as well as a mini-fridge and a sink. Passengers often personalize their compartments with string lights, scarves, and candles.
Romo believes that this is a wonderful way to appreciate the stunning landscape in a comfortable manner.
The following morning, the train reaches Ilic, a quaint village known for its close proximity to Karanalik, also known as Dark Canyon. The Canyon boasts the magnificent Stone Road, which hugs the side of the canyon, often diving into one of its 38 tunnels or navigating treacherous bends.
The train heads out over the vast expanse of Turkey's eastern region.
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Turkey's coast is home to beautiful places to anchor, like Orak Island.
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Often perceived as a risky destination, the Mediterranean region continues to attract visitors with its breathtaking landscapes. From striking cliffs to rugged canyons, all accompanied by the serene flow of the Euphrates river.
The train continues its journey eastward, deep into the heart of Anatolia. Netta Kalpan, originally from Minnesota, had lived in the snowy coastal region of Trabzon on the Black Sea and was accustomed to harsh winters. She admits that she had not fully grasped the immense size, flat terrain, and cold temperatures of Turkey until she embarked on the train journey. However, she also marvels at the breathtaking landscape, particularly in its expansiveness.
"I kept trying to take videos out the windows" but felt "like I wasnt able to capture how it really felt to see it," she says.
The final destination is Kars.
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Final destination
As night descends, the train arrives in Erzurum. Romo declares that her visit to the city was "undoubtedly one of the most memorable experiences" she has had in Turkey, praising the city's rich "historical significance, vibrant culture, and exceptional cuisine."
Erzurum offers a variety of local cuisine, with the most notable being the Cag Kebab. The marinated lamb is cooked over a wood fire and can be enjoyed wrapped in warm flatbread or straight off the skewer. Following Erzurum, the Dogu Express has only a few hours remaining before reaching its end point, Kars.
Known for its winter wonderland scenery, the city takes its name from the Turkish word for snow. It is renowned for its distinctive architecture dating back to its time as part of the Russian Empire.
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According to Istanbul lawyer Ummu Altunas, a trip to the eastern part of Turkey feels like visiting a completely different country compared to the more European western side. One reason for this, she explains, is the diverse range of cultures found in the east, including Kurds, Armenians, and Assyrians.
The medieval city of Ani, once the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Armenia, is a prime example. Situated just a short drive from Kars, the magnificent ruins, which date back 1,600 years, are a popular destination for tourists. Visitors can explore the vast walls and well-preserved churches, all with a breathtaking view of a deep ravine, providing a remarkable journey through history. Despite the lesser-known tourist draw in Turkeys eastern regions, the locals are known for their eagerness to welcome visitors with traditional Turkish hospitality.
Kaplan expressed her affection for living in eastern Turkey, citing her enjoyment of being in a community that deeply cherishes its roots. She clarifies that she holds no ill will towards Istanbul, acknowledging its widespread reputation as one of the world's most remarkable cities.
But to embrace a place less frequented by travelers?
"That feels special."
