The Unconventional Journey: How an Australian couple's mid-life crisis paved the way for Laos' first dairy farm
Discover the fascinating story of Laos Buffalo Dairy, the first dairy farm in Laos, producing a diverse range of cheeses using locally sourced buffalo milk Learn how this venture emerged from an Australian couple's mid-life crisis and brought happiness to the buffalos and the locals Indulge in unique flavors like lemongrass ice cream and buffalo brie, and explore the broader impact of this innovative dairy farm
Buffalo mozzarella is a well-known type of cheese. However, in a popular Southeast Asian destination, travelers can now enjoy a diverse selection of cheeses made from milk sourced from local buffalos rather than cows.
Located in the UNESCO-listed heritage town of Luang Prabang, Laos Buffalo Dairy is the first dairy and buffalo farm in the country. Interestingly, it came about as a result of a midlife crisis.
Susie Martin, an Australian CEO, along with her husband, Steven McWhirter, who is the farm GM, initially relocated from Singapore to Laos with the intention of managing a guest house for a period of one year.
Martin reminisces, "When we attempted to procure buffalo milk, required for creating the delectable yogurt we had observed in Sri Lanka, to be used at the guesthouse, we discovered that no one was familiar with our request." She adds, "Recognizing that there was an increasing demand for dairy products like mozzarella from hotels and restaurants, we established the dairy in 2017."
How the dairy works
Applying the principles she learned during her tenure in the commercial real estate industry, she had an epiphany: "If it is possible to lease an office space, it is also feasible to lease a buffalo." Consequently, this innovative notion gave birth to the social enterprise model of the dairy. As indicated by a sign found at the farm, "Rather than purchasing a luxury car during our midlife crisis, we have chosen to embark on this purpose-driven venture."
Today, they have 85 buffalo on the farm and hope to increase the number to 150 in 2024.
Laos Buffalo Dairy
Villagers around Luang Prabang travel up to two hours to bring their pregnant buffalo to the farm.
At the Laos Buffalo Dairy, Rachel OShea, executive chef and GM of production, explains that the buffalo come to the farm when they are eight months pregnant, as their gestation period is 10 months. Upon arrival, each buffalo undergoes quarantine, disease testing, vaccination, and milking training. Following the birth of the calf, the mother buffalo is not milked for the initial three weeks, allowing the baby to exclusively benefit from its essential nutrients. Subsequently, the mother buffalo is only milked in the mornings, while the remaining milk is left for the calf.
"At the conclusion of the rental period, the farmer receives a lump sum payment based on the number of days the buffalo has been milked, which amounts to approximately $100 per buffalo (considering that the average monthly salary in Laos is $120)," OShea explains. The buffalo and its calf are returned to the farmer's home until the animal reaches eight months of pregnancy again, at which point the dairy process recommences.
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Happier and healthier buffalo
From left to right: Laos Buffalo Dairy CEO Susie Martin, executive chef and GM of production Rachel O'Shea and farm GM Steven McWhirter.
The Laos Buffalo Dairy
In Laos, buffalo have traditionally been employed for plowing rice fields. However, with the increasing popularity of tractors, buffalo owners have started selling their animals to finance their children's education, cover medical expenses, or even support weddings.
Martin explains that the buffalo owned by farmers are like a Buffalo Bank, worth around $1,000, which accounts for half of their annual income. However, due to increased sales of male buffalo, inbreeding has become prevalent, resulting in a less productive and less robust breed. The breeding program initiated by Laos Buffalo Dairy intends to address this problem.
"Martin states that, with the approval of the Laos government, we employ a diverse selection of bulls to mate with the females from multiple villages in order to produce stronger and more robust offspring. Afterward, these improved offspring are brought back to their respective villages along with their mothers."
What the locals thought
Villagers around Luang Prabang travel up to two hours to bring their pregnant buffalo to the farm to be milked.
Laos Buffalo Dairy
When the Laos Buffalo Dairy team first introduced their program to area farmers, it took roughly 18 months to convince them that it was a win-win idea.
OShea explains that initially, they were skeptical that we would barbecue their buffalo because the services we were offering appeared too good to be true. These services include vaccinating the buffalo, providing its feed, assisting with the calf, covering the costs of milk production, and potentially sending it back impregnated with superior genetics, all at no cost to the owners.
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Today, they have 85 buffalo on the farm and hope to increase the number to 150 in 2024.
"Now we get random calls from farmers asking us to take their buffalo in," says OShea.
"Occasionally, when we inquire about the stage of her pregnancy, they casually mention it's a boy. In response, we regretfully convey our policy of not accepting boys."
"Furthermore, in addition to the current high demand, securing funding posed as another challenge for the dairy."
"No one wanted to support us as they all thought we were crazy," says Martin. "So we sold our houses in Australia and the US and used those funds to start it."
Lemongrass ice cream and buffalo brie
Ricotta donuts, made with the farm's buffalo milk.
Laos Buffalo Dairy
With the milk collected from the buffalo, OShea and her team create one of Laos rarest products - cheese.
Visitors in Luang Prabang can visit the farm between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. to sample a variety of delicious dishes, such as caprese salad and pumpkin pie ice cream. The farm also offers guided tours and has plans to introduce a wine and cheese tour in the near future.
Currently, the menu features bocconcini, ricotta, blue cheese, feta, burrata (available upon request), yogurt, and their highly popular mozzarella cheese. The farm is actively working on expanding the menu to include brie, parmesan, cheddar, and, if all goes well, goat cheese.
They are looking to collaborate with Chocolate Dream, the leading cocoa producer in Laos, to develop a cookie dough flavor for their ice cream. Visitors staying at hotels such as La Résidence Phou Vao, A Belmond Hotel, and soon, Avani+ Luang Prabang and Rosewood Luang Prabang, in nearby Luang Prabang can also delight in sampling Laos Dairy Farms cheese at the breakfast buffet and restaurants.
"The greater the number of hotels and restaurants that procure from us, the larger the influx of tourists who visit the farm and sample our products, thereby enabling us to collaborate with an increased number of farmers for obtaining buffalo that can be milked," states OShea.
More than buffalo
The Laos Buffalo Dairy has created a free recipe book for locals that offers suggestions on how to incorporate buffalo milk into traditional Laotian dishes.
Upon reaching the farm, visitors are likely to be greeted by the sounds of pig squeals and buffalo bells. Laos Buffalo Dairy engages in various local programs related to animal husbandry, including the use of pigs and rabbits. Animal husbandry encompasses the science of breeding and tending to farm animals.
To educate farmers, they utilize easily accessible materials for replicating structures within their villages.
"Our pig pen, for instance, incorporates materials that are typically leftover from the harvest and traditionally burnt by farmers such as rice husk, leading to environmental damage," expresses OShea. "However, we repurpose these materials as bedding for pigs, resulting in not only happier and healthier animals but also utilizing them as natural fertilizer after a span of three to four months."
Another major focus at the farm is malnutrition.
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Approximately 35% of Lao children suffer from malnutrition, as reported by the World Bank. Providing babies and infants with buffalo milk presents a convenient and sustainable solution, as it is rich in essential nutrients and readily available to many farmers.
For the past five years, the dedicated team at Laos Buffalo Dairy has initiated three programs focused on maternal and child nutrition. These initiatives aim to assist mothers in enhancing their children's nutrient intake during the crucial first 1,000 days of life. Additionally, they have developed a complimentary recipe book for locals, offering innovative ideas on infusing buffalo milk into traditional Laotian cuisine.
Since its beginning, the program has grown to incorporate goats (a pioneering initiative in Laos) and is currently being extended to neighboring Cambodia as well.
Additionally, the dairy farm intends to reinstate complimentary English lessons for its 40 Laotian staff members and the local school children, a program that had to be halted due to the Covid pandemic.
Since the border reopened last year, the farm has seen improvements despite being severely affected by the global shutdown.
According to Martin, their aim has always been to prioritize environmental friendliness. This is why they opt for using local buffalo instead of imported cows. Additionally, they choose not to maintain their own dairy herd but instead rent animals that are already being raised in the villages.
"As tourism recovers and increases after Covid, the more people we will be able to help."
