The Timeless Allure of the Drag Looks in 'The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert' 30 Years Later
Even after 30 years since its debut at the Cannes Film Festival, the extravagant costumes from this beloved film remain a source of inspiration and admiration.
In Sydney, 1994, there was a dimly-lit bar decorated with tinsel curtains and the flickering light from a disco ball. Tick Belrose, portrayed by Hugo Weaving, was on stage lip syncing as his drag persona Mitzi Del Bra. He was dressed in a silver sequin outfit, complete with matching gloves and a big bouffant blonde wig.
This iconic scene is from the movie "The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert", which had its debut at the Cannes Film Festival 30 years ago this month.
"I actually made that dress for myself," Tim Chappel, a costume designer for the movie, shared with CNN. He explained how he had attended the Miss Teen USA beauty pageant dressed as Miss Silicon Valley the weekend before, complete with a dress that had joke plastic boobs. The film's writer and director, Stephan Elliott, wanted the principal characters in drag to look like ladies, but Tim wanted to add obscure elements to the costumes. He suggested adding joke plastic boobs to make the character look like a lady while adding a humorous touch, as the boobs were clearly from a party shop and the dress was already made, keeping costs low.
In the movie, Tick takes along his recently widowed friend Bernadette Bassenger (played by Terence Stamp) and flamboyant drag queen Adam Whitley, also known as Felicia Jollygoodfellow (portrayed by actor Guy Pearce), on a journey across the Outback in a bus named Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. The trio embarks on a road trip that not only takes them west geographically but also musically, as they travel in their beloved Priscilla.
In the film, Tick (Hugo Weaving) and Bernadette (Terence Stamp) help Adam (Guy Pearce) realize his dream of climbing King Canyon in full drag.
In the film, Tick (Hugo Weaving) and Bernadette (Terence Stamp) help Adam (Guy Pearce) realize his dream of climbing King Canyon in full drag.
Chappel reminisced about the production of the film, saying, "We were just having a laugh!" The setting was Sydney 30 years ago, a time and culture unique in its own right. Without the internet connecting it to the rest of the world, the drag scene in Sydney was somewhat isolated. This allowed for the development of a rich visual language for storytelling and exploring sexual politics, going beyond the traditional female impersonation that Elliott may have originally envisioned.
Chappel expressed his excitement for his first chance to showcase his design skills and was determined to create a unique and interesting wardrobe for the film. He was focused on making a statement and not letting anyone hinder his creative vision.
With limited resources, Chappel embraced the challenge of serving looks on a budget. He was determined to make the most out of the opportunity and showcase his talent as a designer.
Film critic Susan Barber criticized the portrayal of female and non-white characters in the film "Priscilla." However, she still praised the movie as the "darling" of the Cannes Film Festival when it debuted in 1994. The film gained immediate acclaim for its costumes, leading costume designers Chappel and Lizzy Gardiner to win an Oscar in 1995.
The plastic wig worn by Felicia Jollygoodfellow and the flip-flop dress worn by Mitzi Del Bra have become some of the film's most iconic looks.
The plastic wig worn by Felicia Jollygoodfellow and the flip-flop dress worn by Mitzi Del Bra have become some of the film's most iconic looks.
AJ Pics/Alamy Stock Photo
The flip-flop dress, also known as the 'thong' dress in Australia, is one of the iconic looks from the show. It was created using shoes purchased by Chappel for $15 at Target, with the help of his mother's staff discount. This was a significant portion of their budget, but they had to be thrifty with their spending.
Their limited budget led to the use of materials like hot glue, chicken wire, and duct tape for several costumes, which unfortunately fell apart soon after filming. However, the flip-flop dress managed to withstand the challenges. It was constructed using cable ties and duct tape, showcasing their creativity and resourcefulness.
A man dons a feather headdress for the 2001 Wigstock, and annual drag festival held in Manhattan. (Photo by mark peterson/Corbis via Getty Images)
A man dons a feather headdress for the 2001 Wigstock, and annual drag festival held in Manhattan. (Photo by mark peterson/Corbis via Getty Images)
Mark Peterson/Corbis/Getty Images
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Two years passed between Chappel first joining the project and its (limited) funding being secured. The time allowed him to play with and re-do ideas, evolving initial plans into their extravagant final form. In one scene, for instance, Tick, Adam and Bernadette put on a fireside performance of Gloria Gaynor’s “I Will Survive” for a group of First Nations people. Rather than mimic Gaynor’s hairstyle directly, however, Chappel spent his elongated preparation time adding an increasing bouquet of flowers to the trio’s headpieces, until eventually there was no hair left at all.
“I think that’s definitely one of the most iconic looks,” drag artist and costumer Philmah Bocks told CNN. Bocks has been designing costumes for 30 years, having broken into the drag scene around the same time “Priscilla” was hitting screens.
Tim Chappel's costume sketch shows the origins of the floral headpieces and flat-bottomed outfit worn by the principal trio during their performance of "I Will Survive".
Tim Chappel's costume sketch shows the origins of the floral headpieces and flat-bottomed outfit worn by the principal trio during their performance of "I Will Survive".
Tim Chappel
By the time the costume was complete, Tick/Mitzi's 'wig' was entirely made of flowers.
By the time the costume was complete, Tick/Mitzi's 'wig' was entirely made of flowers.
Moviestore/Shutterstock
The thong dress is a very iconic piece too, because I think that’s very (stereotypically) Australian. And of course the big finale look, with the emus on top of their heads. That’s the beauty of ‘Priscilla’: they’ve really captured a moment in Australian time and used Australian culture and flora and fauna to create these wonderful pieces.
“The art of drag costuming is the ability to turn drab into fab,” she continued. “’Priscilla’ showed us a lot of that, because a lot of that type of design work was happening in and around Sydney in the early ‘90s. There was this sort of explosion of drag costuming that went beyond couture. Of course, queens were also on a budget. You couldn’t always afford hundreds or even thousands of dollars to create the most beautiful pieces, but you could kind of get there with stuff we found in a dumpster! It’s what you do with it that makes the difference… I’ve been replicating (Chappel’s) costumes for 30 years, so I’ve got a lot to thank him for!”
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Bocks is famous for her foam wigs, also known as 'Phoam', a style that gained popularity in the musical "Priscilla". She has created these wigs for London's hit show "Priscilla the Party!" and even for Katy Perry on an episode of "American Idol". These wigs embody the "drab to fab" concept as they are crafted from materials purchased at a hardware store. Bocks recalled the humor in buying supplies from the hardware store, knowing they would end up on Katy Perry's head. She joked that by the time she finished with the materials, they looked completely transformed from their original state.
One of the most memorable scenes from "Priscilla" is when Adam/Felicia performs opera on top of a moving bus wearing a stunning silver lamé costume. The idea for this extravagant outfit was inspired by the Rolls Royce "Spirit of Ecstasy" hood ornament. However, the final costume ended up being even more spectacular than originally planned.
Tim Chappel's original sketch for Felicia Jollygoodfellow's bustop opera costume ended up as the exaggerated silver look that became legendary.
Tim Chappel's original sketch for Felicia Jollygoodfellow's bustop opera costume ended up as the exaggerated silver look that became legendary.
Felicia's powerful performance in "Priscilla" follows an incident where their bus is defaced with homophobic graffiti. This moment symbolizes the community's strength in the face of hatred and adversity. The film received a standing ovation at Cannes months before Australia decriminalized homosexuality nationwide, and years before Tasmania followed suit. This was also during the height of the AIDS crisis, but there was a sense of hope as new HIV treatments were being developed, offering a more positive outlook. Tim Chappel, the costume designer for the film, believes that "Priscilla" captures this spirit of renewal and hope during a challenging time.
Stephan Elliott has recently announced that a sequel to “Priscilla” is in the works, with Chappel on board. The newest addition to the empire will join “Priscilla’s” musical adaptation, which has toured the globe in Chappel’s costumes since 2006.
The film’s legacy can also be seen in Australia’s drag scene today and, since 2021, has been broadcast to new audiences via contestants on “Rupaul’s Drag Race Down Under”.
“If I get run over by a bus tomorrow,” Chappel said, “the last little thought that goes through my head – besides ‘ouch’ – is going to be ‘I’ve left an impression, that’s cool’.”
Editor's P/S:
"The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert" left an enduring impact on both the film industry and the LGBTQ+ community. Its iconic costumes, which were created with limited resources and a dash of humor, showcased the creativity and resilience of drag culture. The film's success at Cannes in 1994, months before the decriminalization of homosexuality in Australia, symbolized a shift in societal attitudes towards the LGBTQ+ community.
Tim Chappel's costumes for the film continue to inspire drag artists today, showcasing the power of drag to transform and empower. The film's legacy extends beyond the silver screen, with its musical adaptation touring the globe and its influence visible in Australia's vibrant drag scene. "Priscilla" remains a testament to the indomitable spirit of the LGBTQ+ community and the enduring power of art to challenge societal norms and bring about positive change.
