The Solitary Female Resident amidst a Penal Colony
Giulia Manca sought a peaceful getaway on an island managed by ex-convicts So captivated by her stay, she now resides there permanently, the sole female amidst a population of male prisoners
Giulie Manca journeyed to Pianosa, a former Italian prison island, in 2011 for a relaxing vacation. Little did she know that over a decade later, she would still be residing on the island, known as the Alcatraz of the Tyrrhenian Sea, after checking into the Hotel Milena, staffed by supervised convicts on probation.
Manca is the sole female resident of the ghost village of Pianosa, located in Tuscanys archipelago marine park. In addition to managing the hotel, she supervises the islands rehabilitation program, operated by Arnera, a nonprofit organization with a social mission of aiding vulnerable individuals, including inmates, in reintegrating into society. Tuscanys prison authorities also support the program.
"I spent a week at the hotel and didn't want to leave," Manca shares with CNN. "It was a one-of-a-kind vacation, and the rehabilitation project captivated me. It was inspiring to see how these inmates were given a second chance at life."
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Second chance hotel?
Guests pose for a photo with the male convicts who staff the hotel on Pianosa.
Courtesy Giulia Manca
"I fell in love with Pianosa. Its silence, the turquoise clear paradise-like sea, the peaceful starry nights."
Formerly known as Devils Island, Pianosa is now a peaceful getaway known for its stunning beaches and abundant plant life. Manca, one of only two permanent residents, shares the island with a jail guard and 10 male convicts who work various roles at Hotel Milena, the island's sole accommodation option.
Nestled among pine trees, Hotel Milena boasts frescoed ceilings and offers 11 rooms with wooden furniture and breathtaking sea views. The hotel also includes a spacious patio, where staff serve evening drinks to guests, as well as a restaurant and bar.
Manca had only been a guest at this one-of-a-kind hotel, which remains open year-round, for a few days when the manager at the time informed her that the establishment was facing financial difficulties and in danger of closing.
If this scenario were to occur, the prisoners would be moved back to prison, abruptly ending their time on Pianosa.
"I felt compelled to take action to assist them or else they would return to confinement, confined to small cells without the opportunity for a new beginning and acquiring skills that could benefit them upon release," explains Manca, a former tourist agent.
Raised in Tuscany, Manca made the decision to remain and assume the role of hotel manager. Initially, she volunteered her management skills to ensure the hotel's future. Within a short span of time, Manca successfully made substantial changes, transforming Hotel Milena into a sought-after destination for weddings and birthday celebrations. The unique staff arrangement at the hotel has attracted a steady stream of guests.
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Alcatraz of Tyrrhenian Sea
Pianosa has become a popular retreat due to its pretty beaches and lush green vegetation.
Marco Saracco/Adobe Stock
Situated close to Gorgona, another Italian prison island, Pianosa was set up during the 1700s to confine outlaws, bandits and revolutionaries.
Until 1998, the island was home to a maximum security prison. After it closed, the few residents left and Pianosa remained uninhabited for many years.
Not open to visitors for a long time, only tour operators can now arrange organized boat tours for those who want to visit the island.
Applicants seeking admission to the rehabilitation program at Hotel Milena must have served a minimum of one-third of their jail sentence and completed comprehensive psychological and social evaluation tests.
In the last 12 years, Manca has worked with approximately one hundred probationers, addressing a wide range of offenses, including murder.
Despite acknowledging that a majority of the prisoners have committed crimes more serious than petty theft, Manca has always found solace on the island and views it as a sanctuary. She strongly believes in giving ex-convicts the opportunity to make positive contributions to society instead of being incarcerated for longer periods.
"I believe in the power of redemption and that everyone, including offenders, should be given a second chance. They shouldn't be confined to rotting behind bars, but should be actively involved in rehabilitation tasks," she says. "I want to see them reintegrate into society through meaningful work."
Dubbed the "Queen of Pianosa," Manca acknowledges that her job has raised concerns among her friends and loved ones due to the perceived risks of being the sole woman working alongside a group of convicts.
Manca, a member of Arnera, reflects on the skepticism she faced for taking on a job working and living alongside male offenders who haven't been accused of light crimes. Despite the doubts, she remains unfazed, feeling safer with her male colleagues than in the city among "crazy people."
Being in charge of a group of offenders presents its own set of challenges, but Manca emphasizes the importance of setting clear boundaries to ensure the effectiveness of the rehabilitation program. Her approach to her staff is based on reciprocal respect, and she has found success in maintaining a balance of being both authoritative and open while providing support.
Every week, Manca takes a three-hour ferry ride to mainland Tuscany to handle errands and bureaucratic matters, departing at dawn and returning to Pianosa at night. Unlike the nearby island of Gorgona, where convicts must return to their cells after work, those on Pianosa are permitted to move about freely.
High success rate
Pianosa served as the base for a maximum security prison up until 1998.
robertonencini/iStockphoto/Getty Images
The prisoners receive a monthly salary for their work in the hotel and live in renovated old jail cells that have been transformed into comfortable studios, complete with a gym, TV, kitchen, and private bathrooms. Additionally, they are provided with mobile phones to stay connected with their families.
Italian prisons are known for their inhumane and overcrowded conditions, with 120 inmates for every 100 beds, as reported by the Council of Europe in 2020. In-jail suicides have increased by 300% since 1960, with a 75% relapse into crime. As a result, Pianosa presents a much more appealing option for those approaching the end of their sentence.
Manca takes pride in the success of the "Pianosa model," citing a remarkable decrease in the rate of former island residents returning to crime, now at just 0.01%.
"In the evenings, they have the freedom to head down to the beach and go for a swim," Manca explains.
Despite having to leave their accommodations early in the morning and adhere to a specific evening curfew, the individuals are still closely monitored by a guard. If they behave well, offenders have the opportunity to complete the remainder of their sentence by working at the hotel, with some individuals spending five to ten years in this arrangement.
However, those who show no commitment to change face the possibility of returning to prison to serve the remainder of their sentence. "They have served a minimum of one-third of their sentence and have undergone rigorous psychological and social evaluations to ensure they are no longer a threat and are suitable for rehabilitation, and that they genuinely repent for their actions," Manca explains.
Every day, they must show their commitment to working hard and preparing for a better future. I won't tolerate any mistakes. Manca stays connected with those who have left Pianosa to build a new life, using the skills they acquired on the island through social media.
She explains that some of them have become counselors for inmates in other prisons after their time at the hotel.
Manca is incredibly proud of her role and says that those who were initially skeptical of her decision to stay in Pianosa all those years ago have now changed their minds.
"Even my daughter Yolanda, who as a kid was a bit skeptical of my job, has come to appreciate the isle and understand the importance of what I do, and now tells me Im a lucky person," says Manca.
