The Secretive Gem of London: Unearthing a 900-Year-Old Fortress Pub
The Keys pub, nestled within the historic Tower of London, remains an exclusive haven for the esteemed Yeoman Warders and their loved ones Experience the mystique of this 900-year-old fortress while enjoying a drink in the company of those who safeguard it
The Tower of London, a 900-year-old historic attraction in the UK, draws in over 3 million visitors who come to explore its ancient corridors, view the royal Crown Jewels, and encounter its legendary ravens and distinctively attired "Beefeater" Yeoman Warder guards. However, there's one hidden secret that they don't get to see - London's most exclusive pub.
The Keys appears to be your typical beloved British pub, complete with leather banquettes, rectangular wooden tables, and a intricately patterned carpet. However, its interior is accentuated with distinctive royal elements, such as a ceremonial ax from the 16th century and cabinets showcasing Yeoman Warder uniforms.
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The pub at Tower 35 is managed by the Yeomen Warders, also known as "Beefeaters," in reference to their traditional daily meat ration. Only they and their invited guests have access to the pub. Equipped with accommodations for resident Beefeaters and their families, a medical facility, and a chapel, the Tower has a village-like atmosphere for its inhabitants. The pub plays a vital role in the community, serving as a place to celebrate and relax after a long day.
From sergeant to gaoler
A 16th century ceremonial ax is among the items displayed on the pub's walls.
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“The Tower serves as a community hub, but we also leverage it to support charities by hosting groups of colleagues and friends,” explains Robin Fuller, chief of the Yeoman body. “On average, we raise about £500 (approximately $635), and this is significant to us as we are able to assist many lesser-known organizations, and that small amount goes a long way for them.”
Hailing from northwest London, Fuller joined the Yeoman guards in 2011 following a 34-year career in the Royal Navy. “I took a chance and sent my CV to the Tower, and fortunately, I received a response,” he recalls. “Following a second interview with the Constable of the Tower⦠I was chosen to be the 393rd Yeoman Warder since 1827.”
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Fuller has worked his way up the ranks over 13 years, starting as a Yeoman Warder and eventually becoming chief. He has held positions as a sergeant, gaoler (the historic term for the person in charge of a prison and second-in-charge of the Yeoman body), and now, chief.
One of the pub's most beloved features, according to Fuller, is its exclusive drinks. Supplied by UK brewery Marstons, the pub has an age-old agreement that allows them to market their drinks with names like Beefeater Bitter, Treason, and Yeoman 1485, which references the year Yeoman Warders were founded.
May you never die a Yeoman Warder
The pub is open to Yeoman Warders and their families and guests.
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The Tower of London has been home to numerous pubs throughout its history, and The Keys has continued many of the old traditions of its predecessors. One such tradition is the Yeoman toast: "May you never die a Yeoman Warder." In the past, guards who retired from the Tower could sell their positions for approximately 250 guineas (a guinea was valued slightly higher than a pound). However, if a guard were to die before retiring, the constable would sell the position instead, leaving the guard's family with nothing.
"We always recount that tale during our dinner," shares Yeoman Gaoler Clive Towell. "And at that moment, we proceed to jeer at the constable, raise our silver goblets for a toast, and savor our port."
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The practice of buying and selling warderships was abolished in 1826 by the Duke of Wellington, while the toast is still used. Instead, he implemented new requirements for Yeoman Warders, stating that they must all be honorable ex-soldiers.
This condition is still upheld today. According to Historic Royal Palaces, a charity that oversees some of the UK's ancient landmarks, new Yeoman Warder candidates must be "a former warrant officer or senior non-commissioned officer who has served a minimum of 22 years in the Army, Royal Air Force, Royal Marines, or Royal Navy and hold the Long Service and Good Conduct medal."
Yeomanry in the 21st century
Yeoman Gaoler Clive Towell.
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The role of a Yeoman Warder, also known as "Yeoman Warder of His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress the Tower of London, and Members of the Sovereign's Body Guard of the Yeomen Guard Extraordinary," has evolved over the centuries. While they were once responsible for guarding the Tower, its contents, and supervising prisoners, modern Yeomen now spend a significant amount of their time interacting with tourists and posing for photographs.
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"Our current responsibilities include greeting visitors to the Tower, conducting our renowned Yeoman Warder tours, and imparting historical legends and facts to those who decide to explore this iconic fortress," Towell states.
One of Fuller's favorite aspects of the job is meeting people from all walks of life. "It's nice to broaden your horizons," he says. "Everyone's got a place in the Tower and if they're willing enough to come in here and ask some questions, the least we can do is give them their answers and perhaps learn from them as well."
The Keys pub is an important part of the Tower's community.
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Some of their traditions have yet to be modernized, such as the involvement of Yeomen in various royal ceremonies like the sovereign's coronation, London's annual Lord Mayor's Show, and other state and charity events.
According to historic Tudor customs, Beefeaters are required to wear their ceremonial uniform, referred to as "reds," during state occasions. This uniform consists of a scarlet and gold tunic, red stockings, a white Tudor ruff, and black shoes.
Most Tower of London visitors will recognize the "Blue Undress" uniform, which includes a red and dark blue tunic and trousers, along with a Tudor bonnet and black shoes, adorned with the cypher of the current monarch.
"Prior to the Coronation earlier this year, the cypher was altered to CIIIR, replacing the previous EIIR that had been in use for 70 years during the reign of Queen Elizabeth II," Fuller explains.
Curse of the ravens
Chris Skaife has been a ravenmaster at the Tower of London for around 17 years.
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Every night, Fuller dons a traditional red watch coat and Tudor bonnet to carry out the Ceremony of the Keys, which inspired the name of the pub. In the darkness, exactly seven minutes before 10 p.m., the ceremony takes place on the Tower of London's battlements as part of the longstanding tradition of "locking up" the Tower, which has endured for over 740 years.
"The Ceremony of the Keys is essential, it's something you can't forget," emphasizes Fuller. "I have alarms set up all around my house to ensure that I'm awake, alert, and ready. After completing the ceremony, I always head to the pub to chat with those inside and make sure everything is okay."
In addition to the traditional ceremonies, centuries-old superstitions also significantly influence the maintenance of the fortress today. By royal decree, believed to have originated from King Charles II in the 17th century, six ravens are kept within the Tower's grounds. Currently, there are seven, each with names such as Poppy, Rex, and Georgie.
The legend, according to Yeoman Ravenmaster Chris Skaife, states that if the ravens were to leave the Tower of London, it would crumble to dust and bring great harm to the kingdom.
For 17 years, Skaife has cared for these revered birds, known as the guardians of the Tower. In addition to his regular duties as a Yeoman Warder, he takes on extra responsibilities such as cleaning the ravens' cages and providing them with the finest meat, including beef, mice, and chicks.
"I never really like to stare at a raven in its eye because it feels to me like theyre looking down into your soul," he says.
