The Future of France's Beloved Cheese Hangs in the Balance
Concerns rise as the essential fungus for crafting France's iconic Camembert cheese dwindles due to extensive industrial practices, prompting fears of a potential crisis in the cheese-making industry.
Legend has it that when Napoleon first tasted Camembert cheese, he was so thrilled that he kissed the waitress who served it to him. Despite the inappropriate gesture, the French emperor knew he had found something special.
Camembert cheese has been made in France’s Normandy region in different styles since the 18th century. Known for its creamy, pungent, and gooey texture, it is now considered to be France’s most loved cheese.
Recent headlines have stirred panic among fans of Camembert cheese, as concerns about its future due to a fungal crisis have emerged. Scientists have cautioned that issues in the industrial production of this French cheese could have lasting effects.
In January, a study conducted by scientists at Paris-Saclay University highlighted a shortage of the main fungus crucial for making Camembert and other cheeses. This scarcity was attributed to the industrial production methods aimed at meeting high demand.
Some worry that the decline in dairy consumption could negatively impact certain dairy products. One concern is that beloved Camembert cheese, often sold in its signature wooden box, may be at risk.
World Cheese Awards
World Cheese Awards
Haakon Berg/Courtesy Guild of Fine Food
Related article
The 2023 world cheese champion has been revealed
Blue cheeses are facing a threat, but the situation is much more dire for Camembert, which is already on the brink of extinction, according to a report by the French National Center for Scientific Research (CNRS). Another headline even warned of a potential "cheese crisis" and urged people to "say a prayer for Camembert."
The importance of Camembert cannot be overstated. Alongside iconic French landmarks like the Louvre, haute couture, and the Eiffel Tower, Camembert is considered a national treasure that is adored worldwide - as essential to the French culture as existentialism.
"According to Anne-Marie Cantin, a seasoned cheesemonger and president judge of the 2023 French national Camembert competition, the typical image of France includes a bottle of red wine, a baguette, and a Camembert cheese. She describes Camembert as our national cheese."
The main issue lies with Penicillium camemberti, a type of fungus used in making Camembert cheese. This fungus is responsible for giving Camembert its distinctive white rind, as well as enhancing its rich buttery flavor and strong aroma reminiscent of unwashed socks.
According to scientists from Paris-Saclay, P. camemberti is facing challenges in reproducing, largely due to the demands of industrial cheese production. The problem is not so much related to performance anxiety, but rather stems from the use of asexual fungal cultivation techniques. This method lacks genetic diversity, leading to a depletion of resources for the fungus.
Camembert and Brie cheeses used to be aged in caves or drying rooms called hâloirs, where natural mold spores would create blue or yellow-brown rinds. In the early 1900s, Penicillium camemberti was introduced, replacing the original mold and resulting in the consistent white rinds we see now.
Europe's cheeses are some of the best known in the world.
Europe's cheeses are some of the best known in the world.
AnnaPustynnikova/Getty Images
Related article
Europe’s tastiest cheeses
A study from Paris-Saclay suggests that Penicillium camemberti is believed to be a white mutant that was chosen from the gray-green species Penicillium commune due to its color around the early 20th century.
However, researchers have discovered that Penicillium camemberti, unlike other fungi that live in caves, has a limited genetic diversity and a reduced ability to reproduce sexually.
The study found that using a limited number of clonal strains for making cheese can result in degeneration, which hinders further improvement opportunities.
According to the CNRS report, this makes it challenging for manufacturers to acquire enough P. camemberti spores for inoculating their Normandy cheese production.
Fall and rise
Camemberts on display in their distinctive wooden containers.
Camemberts on display in their distinctive wooden containers.
Ludovic Marin/AFP/Getty Images
Camembert has faced crises before due to the introduction of P. camemberti. According to the late Patrick Lance, a British cheese expert known for his book on France's cheese, Camembert almost disappeared because of industrialization and conflicts in the last century.
In his 1989 book "The French Cheese Book," Lance wrote, "Two world wars and excessive big business nearly destroyed Camembert, keeping only its name alive."
The Camembert name suffered from being associated with mass-produced imitations, but in 1982, Appellation d’origine protégée (AOP) status was introduced to protect it. This meant that only cheeses made in Normandy could be called Camembert. However, debates continued about whether true Camembert should be made with raw or pasteurized milk.
Camembert production has been industrialized over the past century to keep up with demand for the popular cheese.
Camembert production has been industrialized over the past century to keep up with demand for the popular cheese.
Leitenberger S/Andia/Universal Images Group/Getty Images
Those who have experienced the past rises and falls of Camembert seem to be taking the cheese’s latest problem in their stride.
"My family has been making Camembert since 1891, five generations… I have never heard of this situation before,” said Bruno Lefèvre, director general of Les fromageries de Normandie, a regional cheesemakers’ association, in an interview with CNN.
Lefèvre mentioned that cheesemakers have historically faced challenges with cheeses that did not have a white appearance. He recalled how the first batches of Camembert made by his father over 50 years ago were "blue, white, and red."
I have experience making various types of Camembert cheese, both traditional and industrial, and I have never had any problems with the fungus.
Bruno Lefèvre, the general director of Les Fromageries de Normandie
But according to him, the color difference is caused by bacterial pigmentation.
He explained, "It's due to a bacterium called Brevibacterium linens, which can produce an orange pigment. It is not caused by fungus."
France is currently hosting its annual cheese fair in Paris, bringing together cheesemakers from all over the country. One hot topic of discussion at the fair is the issue of fading fungus. Lefèvre mentioned that many people he talked to were uncertain about the concerns surrounding the future of Camembert.
Camembert is prized for its distinctive savory flavors.
Camembert is prized for its distinctive savory flavors.
Charly Triballeau/AFP/Getty Images/File
Lefèvre shared, "I have made all kinds of Camembert, from traditional to industrial, and have never had issues with my fungus."
He added, "This study has been widely covered by the media. Perhaps the researchers were trying to make us cheesemakers panic, but they have not succeeded so far."
The scientists reassure everyone that Camembert cheese is not at risk of disappearing soon. Researcher Tatiana Giraud emphasizes that there is no immediate threat to Camembert production, despite concerns about the homogenization of starters affecting their ability to adapt.
On a related note, there is no need to worry about the availability of American cheese either.
A memorial in tribute to Marie Harel, a farmer of the French northwestern village of Camembert. A statue commemorating Harel also stands in the Normandy town of Vimoutiers.
A memorial in tribute to Marie Harel, a farmer of the French northwestern village of Camembert. A statuecommemorating Harel also stands in the Normandy town of Vimoutiers.
Keeping Camembert alive also ensures that the cheese's story remains alive as well. Legend has it that a Normandy woman named Marie Harel learned how to make Camembert from a fugitive priest from Brie, another region known for its cheese. The cheese gained popularity after winning the approval of Napoleon and even played a surprising role in World War I, which was honored with a statue.
The monument to Harel in the Normandy town of Vimoutiers was initially constructed by an American, as shared by Camembert expert Anne-Marie Cantin.
According to Cantin, "An American doctor arrived in Normandy after World War I with a mission to locate Marie Harel's tomb. Subsequently, he decided to honor her by erecting a statue."
View over the medieval hill town village of Saint Paul de Vence, Alpes-Maritimes Department, Cote d'Azur, France.
View over the medieval hill town village of Saint Paul de Vence, Alpes-Maritimes Department, Cote d'Azur, France.
Gabrielle Therin-Weise/Photographer's Choice RF/Getty Images
Related article
France’s Cote d’Azur is considered one of the best coastlines in the world.
During a visit to the region, a man shared a surprising story with the locals. They were amazed to learn that he had used Camembert cheese during the war to treat patients. He had come to the area to express his gratitude to the inventor of this innovative treatment method.
All the president's cheese: France's Emmanuel Macron eyes up some Camembert at a fromage fair in Paris.
All the president's cheese: France's Emmanuel Macron eyes up some Camembert at a fromage fair in Paris.
In 1944, during the Normandy landings, the statue was destroyed by American bombing. After the war, a group of cheese factory workers from Ohio donated to build a new one, as shared by Cantin.
The statue of Marie Harel, a gift from 400 cheese makers in Van Wert, Ohio, USA, still proudly stands in the town square of Vimoutiers in Normandy today. A plaque commemorates the generous gesture.
In Van Wert County Museum in Ohio, another statue of Marie Harel can be found, symbolizing the unique and cheesy relationship between France and the United States.
Editor's P/S:
This article provides an intriguing insight into the potential crisis facing Camembert cheese, a beloved French delicacy. The shortage of the crucial fungus responsible for Camembert's distinctive flavor and texture has raised concerns about the future of this iconic cheese. While the article acknowledges the concerns raised by scientists, it also offers a reassuring perspective from cheesemakers who have not experienced similar issues. The article highlights the importance of Camembert not only as a culinary delight but also as a cultural symbol of France.
The article also delves into the fascinating history of Camembert, tracing its origins to a Normandy woman named Marie Harel and the role it played during World War I. The anecdotes about the statue of Marie Harel and the American cheesemakers' donation add a heartwarming touch to the story, showcasing the enduring legacy of Camembert and the cross-cultural connections it has fostered. Overall, the article strikes a balance between raising awareness about the potential challenges facing Camembert while instilling a sense of optimism that this culinary treasure will continue to be enjoyed for generations to come.
