The Fascinating Journey of a Physical Costume Designer: Unveiling Excellence Behind Rose Byrne's Transformation

Summary

Physical on Apple TV+ follows Sheila Rubin, a tormented housewife who discovers aerobics, leading to empowerment and success.

The series highlights stunning outfits from the 1980s, with the majority of the spandex ensembles being carefully crafted specifically for the show. Costume designer Ernesto Martinez discloses Rose Byrne's involvement in selecting her costumes and discusses how the outfits have evolved over the course of the series.

Apple TV+'s Physical tracks the life of Sheila Rubin, a housewife plagued by deep internal struggles and an inner voice that haunts her. However, everything changes when she stumbles upon the world of aerobics, initiating a journey towards empowerment and triumph.

Set in 1980s San Diego, the series offers a visual feast of stunning outfits, particularly when coupled with the aerobics theme. These spandex ensembles are meticulously handmade for the show rather than bought. Currently, the third and final season of Physical is unveiling new episodes every Wednesday on Apple TV+, culminating in the grand finale on September 27.

Ernesto Martinez Talks Physical Season 3

Screen Rant recently interviewed costume designer Ernesto Martinez regarding the progression of the costumes throughout the series. In addition, Martinez shared his sources of inspiration for the Physical costumes, along with Rose Byrne's active involvement in her wardrobe choices. Note: This article was written during the 2023 WGA and SAG-AFTRA strikes, and the existence of the show being discussed here is indebted to the contributions of the writers and actors from both unions.

Screen Rant: What excited you about working on Physical?

Ernesto Martinez: The concept as a whole! Are you kidding? Rose Byrne, to start with. Oh my goodness, how can you possibly decline Rose Byrne? Even just being offered the chance to interview her, I was like, oh my goodness, it's Rose Byrne! Of course I want to interview for that! And then the show itself is incredibly captivating. It has multiple layers and delves into various complexities that women face, along with the relevant issues we are still grappling with today.

Sheila Rubin's struggles with bulimia and sex addiction, and the overall dark themes portrayed in the '80s (and even the '70s), were truly challenging. Additionally, the development of the storylines has been remarkable. The writers are absolutely exceptional, especially in their portrayal of the issues women faced during that time – topics that were often ignored and accepted without discussion. I found that aspect to be truly fascinating. It, along with the alluring spandex, greatly attracted me to the show.

Ernesto Martinez: Although we primarily shop for spandex, we also take pride in creating the majority of our apparel in-house. We produce approximately 75% of all the spandex-wear, as well as a considerable amount of her dresses and suits. Additionally, we enjoy sourcing and incorporating unique vintage pieces into our collection.

Rose Byrne is highly involved in choosing her wardrobe, only if she dislikes it. However, she generally isn't particular and we have a fantastic working relationship. Working with her is a breeze as she is not only incredibly beautiful but also incredibly kind. I constantly have to remind myself that I am being paid to do this job when they ask me to return.

Screen Rant: That's the best kind of work.

​​​​Ernesto Martinez: It's just a pleasure to be invited to the party.

Screen Rant inquired about the evolution of outfits throughout the seasons. Ernesto Martinez acknowledged this and noted that at the conclusion of season two, viewers caught a glimpse of the character transitioning into her professional life. It becomes evident that she is striving for success and aims to be perceived as a serious businesswoman, despising the presence of misogyny. Season three sees a significant increase in the level of sophistication and competition, largely driven by the introduction of the character Kelly Kilmartin.

I can't reveal too much, but Kelly plays a significant role in the overall dynamics of her costumes. She spends a lot of time lost in her thoughts. In one episode, we had a photo shoot, and I had to design the costumes based on Kelly's inner dialogue. It was incredibly entertaining. The catsuits, recreated by Terry Mueller, were a blast to work with. That episode was truly memorable.

Ernesto Martinez shared that his favorite creation from the show is the culottes outfit worn by the character. It is a beautiful purple ensemble paired with heels. He remembers this outfit from a scene where the character and Zoey are stuck at a hotel and attending a dinner. Additionally, Zoey is seen wearing a stunning emerald green wrap dress made of silk jersey, which he believes is a unique piece that only two people in the world could wear. Ernesto expressed pride in creating these gorgeous outfits.

Screen Rant: What challenges, if any, arise when emulating the fashion of the 1980s?

Ernesto Martinez: It's enjoyable. Everything seems to repeat itself. I find it fascinating how the clothing I once styled is now reminiscent of current fashion trends. Working on projects set in the '80s is a delightful experience. I've noticed that Balenciaga, for instance, was incorporating elements from that era into their designs a year ago, and now those trends are being embraced by people today.

Screen Rant: What sources did you use for fashion inspiration in creating Physical?

Ernesto Martinez: To develop Sheila's fashion, I initially looked towards Jane Fonda as she perfectly embodied the show's vibe. From there, I expanded upon her influence. Additionally, Cher and her iconic workout fashion served as a great inspiration. I also drew inspiration from numerous starlets from that era. For Kelly Kilmartin, Suzanne Somers was a major source of inspiration. In fact, I specifically utilized aspects of Suzanne Somers' style to shape Kelly's character.

I provided the same inspiration for Sheila as I did for Jane Fonda, who was a tremendous source of motivation. Sheila Ruben's wardrobe drew inspiration from notable models of that time, such as Lauren Hutton. Additionally, renowned designers like Giorgio Armani greatly influenced Hunter Moray. I drew inspiration from various sources including movies, television shows, and videos. I sought out anything that was inspiring and unique, and applied it in my work.

Screen Rant: As the series concludes, is there anything you would like to share about your experience throughout the show?

​​​Ernesto Martinez: It's been fun. It's been great.

Screen Rant: Well, I can't wait to see what you do next.

About Physical

Check out our past interviews with the cast of Physical:

Rose Byrne & Deirdre Friel

Annie Weisman

Rory Scovel

Physical season 3 premiered on August 2 with two episodes. New episodes will be released on Apple TV+ up until the finale on September 27.