The Evolution of Airline Meal Service: From Opulence to Efficiency

In the 1960s, when you flew on an American Airlines flight, you were treated to a luxurious dining experience in Coach class with the "Royal Coachman" menu. You would start with beef consommé, followed by sautéed breast of chicken in wine. Would you like a fruit tartlet for dessert?

Fast forward to today, if you're flying coach, you'll have to be on a long-distance international flight or possibly a coast-to-coast domestic one to enjoy a complimentary meal. On shorter flights, your options might be limited to Biscoff cookies or pretzels.

Airplane meals have evolved significantly from the luxurious days of in-flight dining with fancy dinners and personalized service. Nowadays, disappearing meals are just one of the many challenges that travelers face when flying. However, it's not just cost-cutting by airlines that has led to the decline in meal service. Changes in government regulations, airplane design, in-flight entertainment, industry tax breaks, and concerns about health and safety have also played a role.

After the events of September 11, airline safety protocols and regulations have become stricter, limiting the types of cooking tools that crews can use on board. Additionally, airplane galleys have been reduced in size to accommodate more passenger seats, making it more challenging to prepare elaborate meals. Moreover, airlines have stopped serving certain foods, like peanuts, to ensure the safety of passengers with allergies. As a result, meals on airplanes have become smaller, simpler, or sometimes even nonexistent.

Henry Harteveldt, a travel industry expert at Atmosphere Research Group, mentioned that meal service used to be a source of pride for airlines. However, he now questions the quality, suggesting that airline executives may lack taste buds.

A Pan American Airline flight attendant serves trays of food to passengers on a plane in 1958.

A Pan American Airline flight attendant serves trays of food to passengers on a plane in 1958.

Peter Stackpole/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Airlines have been trying to find ways to save money on food production and make meal preparation quicker for flight attendants. Back in the 1980s, Robert Crandall, the former head of American Airlines, famously mentioned how removing one olive from each salad helped the airline save $40,000 annually.

Since then, airlines have prioritized cost and efficiency over the taste of the food. While carriers like Singapore Airlines or Delta may collaborate with famous chefs, most airlines outsource their food to catering services, which often prepare meals in advance.

"According to Blaise Waguespack, a professor of airline marketing at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Daytona Beach, Florida, people are okay with trading food for cheaper airfares. He mentioned that when you buy a ticket, you're essentially just paying for the seat. Anything extra, like food, comes with an additional cost."

Airlines charging passengers for food on board, even just a few dollars for a sandwich or snack box, is also a way for them to save money on taxes. While domestic airfares are subject to a 7.5% federal excise tax, this tax doesn't apply to baggage fees and on-board food purchases, which are becoming more expensive.

Airplane food has a long history, dating back to the 1920s when flight attendants gave out chewing gum to help passengers with ear pressure. In the early days, meals were served on paper plates because planes were not as stable and would bounce around during the flight, as noted by the Smithsonian.

For many years, the federal government controlled airfare and routes, leading airlines to differentiate themselves through their service, food, and luxurious amenities akin to those found on a cruise or in a Bond movie.

Prior to 1978, when the airline industry was deregulated, it was mandatory for every passenger to receive a full meal including an entrée, two vegetables, a salad, dessert, and a beverage as part of their ticket cost, as reported by the Smithsonian.

In a 1958 commercial, Pan Am promoted the enjoyment of delicious food prepared in four galleys that operated simultaneously with five-minute ovens.

During the 1960s and 1970s, airlines would install sky-high kitchens on board and showcase their menus in order to attract customers.

Beef played a crucial role in the business strategy of airlines. According to Harteveldt, airlines used to compete based on the quality of service and amenities they provided. Meal service was a significant aspect of this competition, especially since entertainment options were limited back then. Airlines had their own teams of chefs, catering kitchens, and even advertised extensively about their food offerings.

An in-flight meal on board a British Airways flight in 2019.

An in-flight meal on board a British Airways flight in 2019.

Rob Welham/Camera Press/Redux

As deregulation took hold, airlines cut ticket prices. But to make up for lost revenue, they cut back on food choices and other services as well.

The September 11 attacks caused a decrease in demand for airline travel. As a result, airlines had to cut back on in-flight meal services. United, American Airlines, Delta, and other carriers quickly announced significant reductions in meal offerings following the attacks.

Continental Airlines, the last major airline to provide free meals in economy class on domestic flights, eventually ended this service in 2010.

Airline meals used to be a target for jokes and complaints, but now they are missed by many. However, experts in the airline industry do not foresee them returning to coach anytime soon.

On the other hand, the situation is quite different for passengers in business and first-class.

Molly Brandt, the executive chef of culinary innovation for North America at in-flight catering company Gategroup, believes we are currently in the "golden age for airline food." The quality of your meal, however, depends on the airline you are flying with and the cabin class you are in. According to Brandt, the food options are typically categorized by cabin class.

For instance, if you are flying first class on an American airline, your lunch choices may include a Mediterranean bowl, chicken breast with mojo sauce, Poblano black bean rice and plantains, or penne pasta with plant-based ragu and ricotta. On the other hand, Delta offers options like a cheeseburger, spinach and cheese agnolotti, or a Hempler’s smoked peppered chicken breast salad.

A handful of airlines even offer caviar to first class passengers. But most fliers these days don’t even get the free chewing gum.

Editor's P/S:

The evolution of airplane meals from luxurious dining experiences to limited offerings is a reflection of the changing priorities and challenges faced by airlines. While cost-cutting has played a significant role, safety regulations, airplane design, and industry changes have also contributed to the decline in meal service. The result has been a shift from meals being a source of pride for airlines to a necessary compromise for passengers.

The article highlights the stark contrast between the opulent meals served in coach class during the 1960s and the limited options available today. The removal of complimentary meals on shorter flights and the outsourcing of food preparation to catering services have led to a decline in quality and variety. While some airlines still offer impressive dining experiences in business and first-class, the majority of passengers are left with unappetizing and often overpriced options. The loss of free meals and the increase in fees for on-board purchases have further eroded the value proposition for air travel.