The Enigmatic Influences of Paulina Olowska: From Marsh Creatures to Knitting Designs
Paulina Olowska, the acclaimed Polish artist, captivates audiences with her fashion-inspired paintings Through her playful juxtaposition of Eastern Europe's socialist history and American consumerism, Olowska offers a unique perspective on the world Her work showcases a different way of working that pushes boundaries and challenges conventional norms
A mysterious forest portal has appeared in central London, providing an escape from the bustling holiday crowds. Inside Pace Gallery, visitors are greeted by the tranquil sound of birdsong and surrounded by large paintings depicting woodland scenes, each populated by an intriguing cast of characters. The intricately carved wooden frames, inspired by Black Forest cuckoo clocks, conceal tiny video screens that bring the nymph-like figures to life.
This surreal and captivating environment has been created by 47-year-old Polish artist Paulina Olowska. Known for her fashion-inspired paintings that cleverly blend Eastern Europe's socialist history with American consumerism, Olowska's artistic practice encompasses collage, sculpture, video, installation, and performance. Her work has been featured in major museum shows, including the Kunsthalle Basel and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, and was recently acquired by the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Her solo show at the Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo in Turin is a comprehensive exploration of femininity and folklore, coinciding with her debut at Pace.
Paulina Olowska's work is now collected extensively including by major modern art galleries such as MOMA.
Olowska, clad in a vintage floral tracksuit, stated, "I would never have painted these works if I hadn't been living in the heart of the forest." Having resided and created art in the Polish town of Rabka-Zdrój for the past 17 years, she explained, "I prefer to live in locations that resonate with the themes of my work. However, when we first moved to the rural area, I felt utterly disoriented. I wondered, 'What am I going to capture in my paintings?'"
The Raphael masterpiece is not exactly as it appears.
She describes her early work as "the modernism era," drawing inspiration from 1960s and 1970s socialist ideas and the post-communist landscape of Warsaw, from the city's neon signs to its fashion sense. For example, her "sweater" paintings use vintage knitting patterns and postcards found at flea markets as their foundations. However, in 2008, a project for the Berlin Biennale initiated a change in focus after observing the work of the late Polish painter Zofia StryjeÅska, who blended modernism with "folk and Slavicness".
Inspirations are varied: From Eastern European socialism and American consumerism to folklore, mythology and feminism.
The artist's work increasingly incorporates these two elements. The Pace show, titled "Squelchy Garden Mules and Mamunas," is centered around Slavic mythology. While the Mamuna is traditionally a feared female swamp demon, Olowska's reinterpretations are feminist and less frightening. Her work combines elements of Slavic folklore, such as the wild goddess Dziewanna, and draws inspiration from fashion shoots for publications like Polish Vogue.
A different way of working
Karine Haimo, vice president of Pace Gallery, remarked that Paulina captivates viewers with her unique artistic world. Meanwhile, art collector Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, the founder and president of the art foundation in Turin that bears her name, has been captivated by Olowska's work since their initial meeting in 2008. Since then, she has acquired seven of Olowska's paintings. Reflecting on her first purchase, Re Rebaudengo described it as a fusion of Olowska's interests in history, fashion, and the concept of femininity, inspired by a photograph by British photographer Norman Parkinson. She shared her thoughts over a Zoom call.
Olowska working in her studio. Her practice incorporates collage, sculpture, video, installation and performance.
Dorota Kidziak
Olowska stated, "Fashion is a powerful form of art for me." Her recent paintings at Pace were based on a series of photographs created in partnership with fashion photographer Kacper Kasprzyk. The outfits in the paintings, videos, and life-size sculptures were designed by Olowska and knitwear designer Monia Kucel, inspired in part by Polish Marzanna dolls representing the Slavic goddess of winter, plague, and death.
A love story in fashion, behind and in front of the lens
Collaboration is at the heart of everything we do. At Pace, we have partnered with New York-based artist Jessica Segall to create a stunning pair of forest-inspired chandeliers. Meanwhile, in Rabka-Zdrój, Olowska has transformed Artist House Kadenówka, a once neglected wooden house from 1930 designed by poet and amateur painter Adam Kaden, into a vibrant hub for creative exchange. Here, we host exhibitions, meetings, lectures, and performances, while also preserving Polish folk art and traditions. "Currently, we are showcasing the incredibly talented but elusive painter, LudmiÅa Woźniczko," Olowska shared. "She is in her 40s but has never exhibited her work before."
Her work often examines subjects of folklore and femininity.
Damian Griffiths/Courtesy of the artist/Pace Gallery
Olowska's latest exhibition at Turin's Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo explores the theme of desire and eroticism from a female perspective. Titled "Visual Persuasion", the exhibition poses the question: "How do women want to think about sexuality?" In addition to Olowska's own work, including a new installation of neons, the exhibition features pieces by other artists from the Sandretto Re Rebaudengo collection, such as Swiss feminist pop artist Sylvie Fleury and a Fiat 126 car installation by Turner Prize-winning British artist Simon Starling.
Sandretto Re Rebaudengo described Paulina as having a wealth of energy. Initially, the plan was to assign her the exhibition area, but she requested more space. Paulina utilized the galleries, entrance, bookshop, and cafeteria, including three new paintings. She also performed in the restaurant. Ultimately, her exhibition took over the entire Fondazione, a fantastic outcome. "Paulina Olowska: Squelchy Garden Mules and Mamunas" is on display at Pace Gallery London until January 6, 2024, while "Visual Persuasion" can be viewed at Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo in Turin until March 3, 2024.
