The Enduring Influence of Coco Chanel: Exploring her Fashion Legacy in an Unmissable Exhibition

"Well, I'm an avid admirer of the iconic little black dress," remarked Tristram Hunt, the director of London's prestigious Victoria and Albert Museum, when asked about his thoughts on the allure of "Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto," the latest sensational exhibition at the institution. Presented with a polished elegance reminiscent of a high-end fashion boutique, this remarkable showcase marks a momentous occasion as the first of its kind dedicated to the renowned fashion visionary who forged one of the world's most triumphant fashion empires. By the conclusion of 2021, Chanel had garnered a staggering workforce of nearly 28,500 individuals across the globe.

Marilyn Monroe applying Chanel No. 5 perfume while getting ready to see the play "Cat On A Hot Tin Roof."

Ed Feingersh/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images/Courtesy V&A

Result: Showcasing a combination of items from V&A's collection, the Palais Galliera fashion museum in Paris, and the Patrimoine de Chanel, this exhibition boasts about 200 outfits. The exhibit commences with a collared blouse originating from 1916, crafted from delicate silk jersey, marking one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments. It then moves through drop-waist day dresses from the 1920s to brocade and lamé tailored trouser ensembles known as "evening pajamas" of the 1960s. A two-tier room is dedicated to the brand's iconic skirt suits before concluding with pieces from Chanel's final collection in 1971. This display effectively captures the ambitious beauty of Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel shows.

"Astonishingly, many of the initial artifacts exceed a century in age, and it is truly remarkable to witness their enduring relevance in today's world," remarked Oriole Cullen, the curator of the exhibition, in an interview with CNN. Cullen specifically highlights the 1916 tunic that inaugurates the show, praising its timeless elegance. "This particular garment marked Chanel's groundbreaking entry into the realm of fashion. Its sheer simplicity and flawless contours, constructed from her renowned jersey fabric, exemplify its enduring appeal."

This Marinière Blouse from 1916 is usually held by the Patrimoine de Chanel in Paris and is the earliest piece in the exhibition. —

Nicholas Alan Cope/Courtesy V&A

Chanel's focus on comfort and freedom of movement in fashion was groundbreaking and immediately popular. In 1926, American Vogue hailed her black crepe de Chine day dress as the "Chanel Ford" and predicted it would become a worldwide sensation. According to Justine Picardie, author of "Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life," this dress epitomized the modern woman of the jazz age, symbolizing independence, strength, and resilience. Despite the radical nature of her designs, Chanel's clothes have stood the test of time.

However, the reason why this biopic of a museum show has quickly sold out goes beyond the realm of fashion. For Hunt, the transformation of the boyish, garçonne look by Chanel and her exploration of gender identities in the early 20th century still resonate today as modern. Chanel was an extraordinary woman, and her life story is an integral part of the exhibition's narrative.

Chanel designed the costumes for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets Russes production of 'Le Train Bleu' in London in 1924.

Sasha/Hulton Archive/Getty Images/Courtesy V&A

From humble beginnings

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was born in 1883 in a poor hospice in Saumur, France. After her mother passed away when she was 11 years old, her father placed her in a convent orphanage in the village of Aubazine. According to Picardie, who conducted research at the Aubazine convent for her book, Chanel had a traumatic childhood and never saw her father again after he left her. However, she channeled her grief into powerful creative expressions throughout her life.

The influence of the nuns' black and white habits can be observed in Chanel's numerous monochrome ensembles. Additionally, the iconic little black dress emerged from a period of mourning and sorrow following the death of Arthur Boy Capel, Chanel's first great love, in late 1919. Picardie explains that Chanel is unique in her ability to tap into not only her own emotions, but also the emotions of others. Her experiences of love, loss, and the search for strength and self-expression resonate universally. It is this universality that gives her designs and perfumes their captivating, expressive, powerful, and alluring quality.

The Chanel exhibition at London's V&A Museum is the first in the UK on the famous couturier.

Peter Kelleher/Courtesy V&A

Before becoming a couturier, Chanel began her career as a milliner. However, she quickly demonstrated her keen business acumen and entrepreneurial skills. In 1910, she opened her first boutique on the bustling rue Cambon in Paris. Encouraged by its success, she expanded her reach to the affluent resorts of Deauville and Biarritz, leveraging this triumph to launch her own clothing line. Not content with her achievements, Chanel ventured further and in 1921 introduced her legendary perfume, N°5, which ultimately became the best-selling fragrance worldwide. In the 1950s, when asked what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe famously replied, "Chanel N°5."

Do you recall Marissa Cooper donning counterfeit Chanel on The O.C?

In "The Invisible Accessory" room of the show, one can behold the remarkable contemporary essence of Chanel's vision. It showcases an assortment of unmistakable bottles, along with cosmetics and skincare items introduced in the 1920s. Furthermore, it features samples of her ingenious advertising campaigns. Additional areas exhibit subsequent iconic releases, including the coveted Chanel 2.55 handbag, elegant two-tone slingback shoes, and an assortment of fashion accessories.

A Chanel dress dating to 1935, part of the collection of the Patrimoine de Chanel in Paris.

The suits in the kaleidoscopic room are a true delight. "During the 1960s, Chanel wholeheartedly embraces color and takes it to another level," explained Cullen. The collection includes the stylish sailor stripes, famously worn by actor Jeanne Moreau at the Cannes Film Festival in 1960, as well as eye-catching tweeds. "Chanel collaborates with pioneering textile designers to craft these extraordinary fabrics in vivid pinks and striking greens."

The woman, the myth

Throughout the content, the biographical panels and photographs provide intricate details of her personal life, showcasing Chanel in the company of her lovers, such as Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster, and her close friend Winston Churchill. During Churchill's stay at Sutherland Estate in Scotland alongside Chanel and the Duke, he vividly described Chanel's passion for fishing, sharing that she would tirelessly pursue the sport from morning till night, successfully catching 50 salmon in just two months.

Model and actress Marie-Hélène Arnaud in a tweed suit from Chanels Fall-Winter 1959 collection and Chanel shoes, carrying the house's iconic 2.55 handbag.

Cullen emphasized the importance of Chanel's emphasis on movement and activity in her clothing. Prior to her fashion career, as she lived with her lover Étienne Balsan, who was a horse trainer, Chanel fully embraced horse riding. Unlike most women at that time who rode side saddle, she confidently rode astride in her tailored breeches. Additionally, when she later associated with the Duke of Westminster, she immersed herself in activities like hunting, shooting, and fishing, and tailored her wardrobes accordingly, incorporating corduroys, tweeds, and knitted jerseys.

One aspect of Chanel's life that has frequently been discussed pertains to her wartime involvement with Hans Günther von Dincklage, an official from the German embassy. According to Nazi records from July 1941, Chanel was regarded as a reliable informant. However, recently discovered documents reveal that in 1943, Chanel joined the French Resistance and served as an occasional agent. This research has been integrated into both the exhibition and the new edition of Picardie's biography.

While Chanel made the little black dress famous, her work was incredibly diverselike this red piece, dating from 1932.

Nicholas Alan Cope/Courtesy V&A

According to Picardie, who has spent 25 years researching Chanel's life, there are many misconceptions surrounding her. However, a recent discovery of a document reveals that she was actually a member of the French Resistance, contradicting the belief that she was a Nazi supporter. Picardie sees this revelation as the missing piece in the puzzle of Chanel's life.

Picardie emphasizes that it is important to go beyond the superficial aspects of fashion and delve into its hidden depths. This is particularly true with designers like Chanel, where her life story is intricately woven into her designs.

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is at the Victoria & Albert Museum until 25 February 2024. "Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life" by Justine Picardie is published by HarperCollins