The Danish Fashion Revolution: Unleashing Global Trends and Success

Editors Note: This article is a contribution to CNN Styles ongoing initiative, "The September Issues: Inspiring discussions about the influence of fashion on individuals and the environment."

In August, fashion editors and buyers from more than 120 prestigious fashion publications and retailers traveled to Denmark willingly, enduring the pouring rain while seated on damp stools.

Was there a new immersive trend called "water-core" at Copenhagen Fashion Week? While it may not have been the case, in the world of fashion, one should never rule anything out. Unlike the usual calm and candlelit atmosphere associated with this mid-summer event, attendees were ready to embrace the elements. It's no surprise, as the fashion pack makes it a point to attend the bi-annual showcases in the Danish capital. Copenhagen has now earned the title of "fashion's fifth city," following the footsteps of New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Vogue Business bestowed this honor, and it was echoed by numerous fashion critics from i-D to the Financial Times, Hello! to High Snobiety, who were all singing the same praises under those umbrellas.

Copenhagen is now regarded by some as "fashion's fifth city."

Copenhagen Fashion Week has successfully captured attention on a global scale with its 18-point sustainability criteria for designers, various investment opportunities, and the acclaim received by popular brands like Ganni, Stine Goya, and Saks Potts.

According to CPHFW, the Spring-Summer 2024 showcase this summer experienced a significant increase in online media exposure, with a growth of 117.5%. The event extended from its usual three days to four days to accommodate 31 shows, resulting in over a million more social media impressions compared to the previous year.

These statistics are in line with the recent upward trend in Danish fashion exports. Data from Statistics Denmark, a data analytics organization, shows that Danish fashion exports have increased by 84% over the past decade, while domestic sales have only risen by 8%. As a result, fashion now accounts for 5% of the total Danish goods export.

That CPHFW has and continues toinvest heavily in its pool of emerging talent is frequently listed as the reason for this growing success.

Brands like Ganni, whose Spring-Summer 2024 show is displayed here, now enjoy global recognition.

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The Copenhagen Fashion Week serves as an incubator for Nordic fashion designers, offering support and opportunities for those entering the challenging industry. Through collaborations with government-funded and independent arts organizations, designers receive mentorship, investment, press coverage, and retailer exposure to kickstart their careers. Established Danish brands like Ganni, Stine Goya, and Cecilie Bahnsen have benefited from the council's support, and the organization continues to pave the way for future successes.

CPHFW collaborates with ALPHA, a non-profit initiative, to offer immediate support to designers who have just graduated. Under the guidance of director Ane Lynge-Jorlen, a panel of industry experts assists these designers. During fashion week, ten brands are chosen to showcase their graduate work at an awards show.

This year, CPHFW joined forces with retailer Zalando to establish the Copenhagen Fashion Week x Zalando Visionary Award. This prestigious award not only provides a range of mentorship opportunities but also includes a substantial prize of 50,000 euros (approximately $54,000) for business development. Additionally, the winning designer receives an extra 35,000 euros ($38,000) to produce their own show.

There's a range of new talent present in Copenhagen, supported by bursaries and financial prizes to help young designers meet the cost of shows.

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There are other initiatives too, such as a bursary scheme providing four brands less than five years old, with finance for up to three seasons.

The Danish fashion industry has established an unparalleled support network, which proves to be indispensable for designers in developing their businesses. "The Danes have actively collaborated and functioned as a unified entity, rather than pursuing individual goals," states Ida Petersson, the Buying Director for Womenswear and Menswear at online fashion retailer Browns.com, which consistently demonstrates its support for Danish designers.

"Copenhagen's status as a fashion hub attracts global attention to Denmark," stated Awa Malina Stelter during an interview with CNN. Stelter, along with Stephanie Gundelach, co-founded the environmentally friendly Danish brand Opera Sport in 2019. Stelter emphasized the importance of Fashion Week as a platform that allows them to reach a worldwide audience, gain exposure, and establish connections with influential figures in the fashion industry. Consequently, Stelter revealed that the brand has achieved significant year-on-year financial growth ranging from 50 to 80%.

Nicklas Svovgaard echoed this sentiment during his interview with CNN, affirming that being recognized as a new talent in the CPHFW New Talent program provided him with the necessary support to organize a fashion show. Svovgaard, the recipient of the prestigious 2022 Wessel & Vett Foundation prize, made a highly acclaimed debut in August by showcasing Victorian-inspired costumes created using sustainable weaving techniques. He expressed his excitement by announcing the upcoming launch of his collection with a prominent online retailer this fall.

Stine Goya is another Danish brand whose reach has ballooned outside of Denmark.

P.L.N, a label launched in 2021 by Peter Lundvald Nielsen and a recipient of the New Talents prize, has enjoyed a similar journey. According to Olivia Danielsson, COO of the company, "The funding has proven to be a valuable investment in elevating our brand. Additionally, we have access to a knowledgeable network of industry experts whose advice has been invaluable. The importance of making the right strategic decisions cannot be understated. One wrong move can be detrimental, while the right choices can lead to success."

The Danish Arts Foundation's investment is not solely driven by commercial gain, but rather by its commitment to fostering creative expression.

"We recognize the value and potential in their work, and we are eager to witness its full development in the future," stated Anne Damgaard, leader of the Danish Arts Council Committee for working grants, in an interview with CNN. Damgaard, a former fashion designer who received support from the foundation at the beginning of her career, expressed her enthusiasm.

"We believe that it has the potential to revolutionize the fields of design, crafts, and fashion, as well as positively impact society as a whole," she continued. "Fashion has the ability to offer so much more than just warmth, decency, and style."

While the fashion industry eagerly anticipates a new mandatory EU framework for sustainable practices, only Copenhagen Fashion Week has proactively implemented strict criteria for ethical and sustainable practices. The event showcases renowned designers who incorporate vintage, deadstock, recycled, and repurposed fabrics in their cutting-edge collections. This approach has resonated with a wide demographic of consumers, both domestically and internationally, who demand accountability from brands and embrace the latest cultural trends."

"The exceptional efforts by Cecilie Thorsmark, the CEO of (Copenhagen Fashion Week), and her team to establish Copenhagen Fashion Week as a prominent advocate for sustainability distinguish them," asserts Petersson. "Consequently, it has served as a catalyst for other European fashion councils to reassess their approaches."

A model walks the runway at the P.L.N. show during the Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024.

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Thorsmark, currently on maternity leave, stated to Monocle magazine last year that this was the reason for accepting the position initially. She believed there was potential to question the purpose of fashion week as a whole and explore the possibility of using their platform to actively accelerate the industry's transition.

The sense of community is also crucial to the achievement here. Every person interviewed for this article acknowledged the Danish emphasis on collaboration and camaraderie over competition as a significant factor contributing to their motivation and accomplishment. Providing people with opportunities to succeed is equally representative of the Danish Fashion Council and the broader egalitarian societal mindset in Denmark.

Not only fashion influencers but also established designers who have the resources to support young brands are investing in emerging labels. Elisabett Stamm, the winner of the Copenhagen Fashion Week x Zalando Visionary Award in January 2023 for her brand STAMM, secured her first retail partnership with renowned Danish designer Henrik Vibskov.

Henrik Vibskov Boutique, representing STAMM since its first collection, provides the crucial support that an emerging brand and designer like Stamm require. In an interview with CNN, Stamm expressed the significance of such support, highlighting the rarity of individuals who possess the bravery to take the initial steps in discovering something new.

Other individuals have also achieved this. Stamm has partnered with the innovative brand (Di)vision, which has received guidance from Nicolaj Reffstrup, co-founder of Ganni, in order to create brands that prioritize democracy in nurturing creativity and making purchases at accessible points.

This collective effort results in fashion that resonates with consumers who seek to invest their money in meaningful products and be part of a community that promotes both looking good and feeling good. Additionally, it generates a sentiment that motivates people to take notice, even during rainy fashion weeks, and share their enthusiasm with others.