Behind the glass, a chubby raccoon spends a few moments running on an exercise wheel before settling back down on the floor. In the adjacent enclosure, a couple of prairie dogs sit on logs under the bright artificial light from an overhead lamp. Meanwhile, on the other side of the partition, happy customers enjoy lattes and take photos with the animals, a common scene in South Korea.
Over the past decade, animal cafes have become increasingly popular in the country. It started with cats and dogs, but has since expanded to include a variety of unique wildlife species in the age of online virality.
In Seoul's trendy university district Hongdae, there is a cafe with over 40 species, including porcupines, snakes, foxes, and ferrets. A sign on the door promotes it as a unique date spot.
A staff member feeding an albino raccoon at an animal cafe in Seoul, South Korea, on April 2, 2020.
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But the cafes have also stoked controversy, with animal welfare advocates long pushing for tighter restrictions or even an outright ban on such businesses.
The increasing resistance led the South Korean government to enforce a new set of laws in December, effectively banning cafes from showcasing live wild animals unless they are licensed as zoos or aquariums. Although seen as a positive step, experts believe that the current laws are not sufficient and more action is required, especially considering the opposition from business owners who claim that their livelihoods are in jeopardy.
"Given that everything revolves around money, I believe the impact of the law will be quite limited," remarked Jang Ji-deok, who serves as the general manager of the Department of Zoological Management at the National Institute of Ecology, a key advisor to the government on this legislation. "Nevertheless, the introduction of the law signifies a gradual improvement in the situation."
Rise of the animal cafe
The phenomenon of cat cafes began in 1998 with the world's first one opening in Taiwan. Since then, the trend has spread globally, resulting in numerous cafes in South Korea during the early 2010s. At these popular spots, customers can indulge in drinks or food while interacting with and petting the adorable residents, offering a unique and delightful experience, especially in urban areas where interactions with non-domesticated animals are limited.
The range of animals on display in Korea has expanded beyond the usual housecat. For example, a cafe in Hongdae attracts visitors with its fluffy sheep and sheep-themed interior. One Seoul resident, Kang Aesol, recently visited the sheep cafe after hearing about it for years. He described the visit as a way to find peace of mind after long, frustrating days at work behind a computer.
"When you see the innocence of animals, doesnt the anger in your heart melt away?" he said. "The sheep seemed at ease, and so did I."
A woman takes a selfie with a sheep at a cafe in Seoul, South Korea on February 17, 2015.
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Prior to the recent changes to the laws, there were minimal regulations in effect. The prior animal protection act only prohibited the collection or trade of endangered species, leaving wild animals like raccoons, livestock like sheep, and other novelty animals fair game for pet cafes to exploit, as they were able to operate under the guise of official business registration as restaurants or rest areas, with the added allure of substantial profits due to increasing demand.
Struggling to make sales at your regular cafe, restaurant, or store? Consider switching to a pet cafe, a popular and profitable option according to Aevan, a pet business consulting company based in Korea. They estimate that a dog cafe could cost $40,000 to start but could net over $15,000 a month in profit.
The influence of social media in promoting Korean pet cafes is evident through the abundance of travel blogs, YouTube videos, and Instagram posts dedicated to these establishments. For example, a Samoyed dog cafe in Seoul has amassed over 81,000 Instagram followers, with long lines of eager visitors often seen stretching out the door.
What the critics say
As animal cafes proliferated, criticism followed.
The animals in local media reports have been described as living in small, cramped spaces and experiencing stress from constant touching and handling by visitors. They also suffer from health issues due to a poor diet, with visitors often feeding them treats, and other gaps in care such as inadequate enrichment and grooming. Some businesses have rules in place to prevent customers from picking up certain animals or to restrict young children from entering.
At the sheep cafe Kang visited, there were specific guidelines in place to ensure that the sheep were not startled by the customers. Additionally, there was a designated sink for patrons to use before and after interacting with the animals. Kang mentioned that he cautiously petted the sheep a few times, being mindful not to overdo it in order to avoid causing any discomfort. For the remainder of his visit, he observed the sheep from afar as they partook in their natural behaviors such as eating, chewing cud, and resting.
"He said, 'When you hear the term animal cafe, you may have preconceptions about animal abuse, but after learning about this (cafe), I thought it was a really good system.' 'The sheep looked very healthy and did not appear anxious.'"
A group of wallabies eat at an animal cafe in Seoul, South Korea, on March 31, 2020.
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However, not all cafes have these measures in place, and the potential risks vary depending on the type of animal, according to experts.
"Physical contact can not only affect the animals, but also poses a risk to those who come into contact with them, such as the potential spread of zoonotic diseases. Yet, despite this, visitors and trainees continue to touch the animals in pursuit of the complete experience," said Jang, from the National Institute of Ecology.
"The animals are fed the same way," he explained, noting that many indoor zoos and cafes close on Mondays because that is when all the animals become ill from the food visitors give them."
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Changing laws
Despite years of lobbying, previous attempts to introduce regulations have stalled - including a proposed amendment to the Animal Protection Act that ultimately failed.
Jang stated that the recent legislation implemented reflects the government's increasing concern about the unrestricted display and sale of dangerous and venomous animals in the country, as well as mounting pressure from the public. The new amendments to the Wildlife Protection Act permit only officially registered zoos or aquariums to showcase live wild animals. Animal cafes have a grace period of four years to either register as a zoo or aquarium or cease operations, in an effort to prevent animal abandonment resulting from cafe closures.
Jang noted that many raccoon and other animal cafes have closed as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. Consequently, numerous animals are being abandoned due to the closure of these establishments, and even the facilities meant to accommodate them are also shutting down.
A cat sits on a table at a pet cafe in Seoul, South Korea, on April 2, 2020.
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The government-operated shelter for abandoned endangered animals is in danger of reaching capacity, prompting the Environmental Ministry to construct additional facilities. This includes one specifically for non-endangered "exotic wildlife," according to Jang.
Furthermore, Jang emphasized that the licensing requirements for zoos and aquariums establish specific guidelines for animal enclosures, staffing, disease and safety management, and necessitate regular inspections.
"With this, I believe that improved animal welfare environments will be created through increased education and enforcement," stated Jang.
However, the law has caused concern among some business owners who feel that the government's actions are not sufficient to support cafes and their animals."
Koo Jung-hwan, the proprietor of a meerkat cafe in Seoul, is currently grappling with the decision of pursuing legal action, shutting down his business, or seeking accreditation as an indoor zoo. Despite the grace period, he intends to keep his cafe operational for the time being, but he is worried about other cafes possibly abandoning their animals.
"The law bans animal cafes, but it fails to offer any alternatives or solutions for the animals. The government should have considered that," he commented, affirming that he would continue to care for his meerkats even if his cafe ultimately ceases operations.
"I am committed to taking care of them for the rest of their lives because they are my family," he stated. "It is my responsibility to ensure their well-being."
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Next steps
Some critics and proponents argue that the legislation is inadequate as it solely targets establishments showcasing wildlife. This means that cafes housing animals categorized as "pets" or "livestock" are not covered by the rules, whether they include dogs and cats or ferrets and sheep.
Jang noted that these exceptions "could be exploited," and mentioned that animal welfare laws are "not as rigorously enforced" in South Korea as they are in certain European countries with more stringent regulations. Nevertheless, he indicated that authorities are unlikely to extend the law to cover pets and livestock, as it could devastate the animal cafe industry and small ranches nationwide.
A staff member holds a wallaby at an animal cafe in Seoul, South Korea, on March 31, 2020.
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"He said that the owners of these businesses have a right to survive and the state should not enforce otherwise. It's a complex situation, with some people arguing that we shouldn't take away people's livelihoods, while animal rights activists want these establishments to shut down. Additionally, the government-owned National Institute of Ecology has proposed guidelines such as educational programs at animal cafes, requiring visitors to wear gloves before handling animals, and limiting their interaction with animals to only a minute or two. Jang expressed hope for progress with the new laws."
He expressed satisfaction in seeing his past aspirations materialize and emphasized the need for increased funding for zoos and aquariums to enhance their facilities, expressing confidence in the country's ability to achieve this goal.