Reimagining 'Dandies' Through a Feminine Lens
Explore the captivating world of Sarah Ball's 10 large-scale portraits in a refreshing palette, as the latest exhibition 'Titled' pushes boundaries of gender norms and embraces vibrant self-representation.
In 1863, the French poet and critic Charles Baudelaire observed a unique group in Parisian and English high society. This faction was known for their extreme obsession with appearances, to the point where some were rumored to use Champagne to polish their boots. Baudelaire described them as dandies, men who were meticulously dressed and dedicated to their image, comparing their mysterious lifestyle to the practice of dueling.
Despite his own indulgent tendencies in fashion and lifestyle choices, such as wearing satin and velvet and experimenting with different hairstyles, Baudelaire acknowledged the dandy's rebellious nature. He saw in them a strong desire to express their individuality in a bold and unconventional way.
Scores of subcultures have embraced and interpreted the archetype in the decades since. Instead of Beau Brummell’s neatly tied cravat, the term “dandy” now brings to mind images of Harry Styles in a string of freshwater pearls or playwright Jeremy O. Harris in sharp Thom Browne suits. The focus remains on meticulously styled elegance, regardless of traditional gender norms or expectations of dress.
“There’s not one definitive description,” noted British artist Sarah Ball in a recent video call with CNN. “Gender norms are so blurred now, fantastically. It’s a moving scale, wherever we choose to be.”
"Von," a subject featured in two of Ball's "Tilted" portraits, pictured here in a Puritan-style bonnet and gown.
Todd-White Art Photography/Courtesy Friedman Gallery
Ball's 2023 painting "Declan (In Simone Rocha With Eddie)." Ball imbues the pair with a self-composure that borders on stoicism; together, they project an imperiousness akin to a Holbein patron.
"Henry," also twice a sitter for Ball, pictured here in a shirt, tie and louche beret.
Todd-White Art Photography/Courtesy Friedman Gallery
The main theme of Ball's first solo exhibition in New York, titled "Tilted," revolves around the modern interpretation of the dandy in the twenty-first century. The exhibition, held at the Stephen Friedman Gallery in Tribeca, features 10 large portraits that challenge traditional notions of gender and celebrate self-expression through vibrant colors.
In "Tilted," each of the individuals depicted showcases their unique style with intricate details in their clothing and accessories. From stylish headwear to elegant lace collars, expressive makeup, and even a cocktail glass complete with a green olive, the portraits highlight the diverse and eccentric fashion choices of the subjects. Ball, based in St Ives, Cornwall, finds her inspiration from individuals she discovers on social media or encounters on the streets, drawn to their sense of individuality and uniqueness.
Ball's engaging, enigmatic portraits withhold any narrative about their sitters, instead emphasizing physical and aesthetic characteristics that offer an interpretation of the self.
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Ball's exploration of the dandy persona has naturally evolved, focusing on the interplay between self-identity and outward presentation. According to Ball, this concept extends to how individuals are defined by others or how they define themselves, whether it be related to race, ethnicity, religion, sexuality, or gender fluidity. She has always been intrigued by the external portrayal of one's self and how personality is expressed.
Despite the cleverness evident in the attire, Ball's portraits exude a sense of tranquility and surrealism, creating a timeless quality for her subjects. She specifically looks for individuals who possess this unique quality when selecting subjects to paint. Maintaining an unmistakable personal style is also key to the appeal of her work. While Ball does not dress up her subjects, she does make minor adjustments to ensure visual harmony in the composition. As she explains, her subjects are essentially "ready-made," with the painting process serving as the transformative element.
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In Ball's 2023 painting titled "Declan (In Simone Rocha With Eddie)," he captures a sense of self-composure in the pair that almost reaches stoicism. Together, they exude a commanding presence similar to a Holbein patron.
Standing at over eight feet tall, the artwork titled “Declan (In Simone Rocha With Eddie)” portrays an individual wearing a luxurious, crystal-embroidered smock dress created by the Irish designer Simone Rocha. Rocha is known for her unique interpretation of traditional customs, 'feminine' norms, and gender expression. In the artwork, Declan is accompanied by a long-haired guinea pig named Eddie, who is wrapped in a lace-edged handkerchief. With a stylish shag haircut, Declan's appearance blends elements of 18th-century Flanders with a modern hipster vibe, reminiscent of neighborhoods in Brooklyn or Berlin.
An encounter with Andrew Solomon's essay on Dandyism from 2004 had a significant impact on Ball's work. This was before the era of social media dominance, such as Instagram, where people showcase themselves. Ball shared, "I've always found inspiration from historical archives to understand current events. The concept of 'promenade' in flaunting oneself is similar to how people use social media today." (In reference to Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly's quote, "To appear to be is to be for Dandies.")
Ball's portraits are captivating and mysterious, as they do not reveal any stories about the people being depicted. Instead, the focus is on highlighting their physical features and beauty, providing a unique insight into their individuality.
Two characters, Von and Henry, appear in various forms in the show, showcasing how persona can change and the layers of complexity beneath the surface. Ball pointed out the impact of social media in shaping our self-image, highlighting the blurred line between reality and fiction. "It's hard to tell what's true about a person just from their online presence," Ball explained. "There's a fine line between reality and the image we choose to present."
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Amy Sussman/Getty Images
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Ball's interpretations of the dandy highlight the persona's flexibility and fluidity. She references influential women like Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich, and Sandy Powell, who have contributed to the distinctive 'look' with their unique styles.
What truly stands out is the individuality and charisma that Ball admires. She is drawn to those who are not afraid to be different, expressive, creative, and extraordinary.
Editor's P/S:
The article delves into the evolution of the dandy archetype from its origins in 19th-century France to its contemporary manifestations. It highlights the enduring allure of self-expression and individuality, which has been embraced by subcultures over the decades. The modern interpretation of the dandy, as exemplified in Sarah Ball's "Tilted" exhibition, challenges traditional gender norms and celebrates diverse fashion choices. Ball's portraits capture the essence of her subjects, showcasing their unique style and sense of self.
Through her exploration of the dandy persona, Ball invites us to question the boundaries of identity and self-representation. In an era of social media, where individuals curate their online presence, Ball's work encourages us to consider the interplay between the external presentation and the inner self. By highlighting the individuality and charisma of her subjects, Ball celebrates the power of expressing oneself authentically and embracing the fluidity of identity. work, Ball celebrates the beauty and complexity of human individuality, encouraging us to embrace our unique qualities and express ourselves without fear of judgment.
